MrEff87 0 #1 Posted October 28, 2023 Hello all, this quickly turns into an addiction…Early 90’s. My current problem that I would like to check off my list is the motion lever not staying in the forward position. I searched the forums and messed with the friction plate but to no avail. So primary details is when driving at any speed the forward motion randomly slips back to a crawl speed. But even worse when parked w/ the Brake engaged the transmission will start to whine because it’s slipping into reverse also at a crawl. I’m decent w/ engines but not with transmission. Thanks for your time!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gasaholic 226 #2 Posted October 28, 2023 Not an uncommon issue, you'd likely have to pop off seat pan and cover plate over the motion lever to fully investigate (and probably needs a good cleaning of the cooling fins area anyway) Bushings on the motion lever arm can get worn out (is there any slop in the lever when park brake is set?) grass and debris build up can cause binding and limited motion, linkage ball joints may be getting worn, or you may need a new control plate & friction washers & bushings , and re-adjust tension and neutral detent (Adjusted by that big hex-shaped bushing held on with a 7/16 hex head bolt - you loosen bolt just enough to rotate the hex , and with tractor jacked up off rear wheels you hit park brake and then adjust the hex til wheels stop moving) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rick3478 429 #3 Posted October 28, 2023 44 minutes ago, MrEff87 said: Hello all, this quickly turns into an addiction…Early 90’s. My current problem that I would like to check off my list is the motion lever not staying in the forward position. I searched the forums and messed with the friction plate but to no avail. So primary details is when driving at any speed the forward motion randomly slips back to a crawl speed. But even worse when parked w/ the Brake engaged the transmission will start to whine because it’s slipping into reverse also at a crawl. I’m decent w/ engines but not with transmission. Thanks for your time!!! The friction plate is one of my un-favorite things about Hydrostats. If you rely on it to keep the motion control lever in the position you want, it has to be pretty tight. And when you think it's about tight enough, it's also starting to bend the washer a bit, so now you have a concave wear crater, which doesn't work well. For starters, I've often thought the washer needed to be a whole lot thicker so it wouldn't bend under the clamping force. But that might just be a slight improvement over a very basic design that barely works. I've also thought, surely there must be a better way to do that whole thing, like give the control lever some mechanical advantage to lift off the friction so they aren't fighting each other. I've had ideas about how that might be done, but little time available to pursue such things. But thinking a little farther outside the box, if I had a foot pedal, the whole friction thing becomes less necessary. I think that's the direction I really want to go with a couple of mine. The other part in that mechanism that you didn't mention is the eccentric. If it's creeping from neutral to reverse, you may need to rotate the eccentric a bit to get the mechanism's mechanical center lined up with the hydro's neutral. Just a guess. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,352 #4 Posted October 29, 2023 Keep in mind that the washer on top has a another one below the plate. Those surfaces wear and form a taper so they should be ground flat again or replaced. Likewise the cam plate also wears making for less friction. You should not need to tighten the adjustment nut very much, certainly not to the point of bending the washer, if the friction surfaces are flat. The original washer was rather thick and harder than a cheap store bought one. There should be a pair of wavy spring washers below the lower friction washer, they need to be in good condition but they are hard to find, when adjusting the friction these washers are flattened about half way. The wavy spring washers are Toro Part Number 100365, good luck in finding them but you can buy spring washers from McMaster-Carr if you know the OD, ID and thickness. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,221 #5 Posted October 29, 2023 12 hours ago, lynnmor said: Those surfaces wear and form a taper so they should be ground flat again or replaced Good info there Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,436 #6 Posted October 29, 2023 On 10/28/2023 at 1:04 PM, MrEff87 said: I’m decent w/ engines but not with transmission. If you haven’t already, be sure to download the Eaton 11 manual. There is a good section on adjusting the transmission. Search box on the upper right of any page using keywords "transmission eaton 11” in the Files section and be sure to set the “use all my search terms” option. (Others might supply the “fish” -- I believe in teaching “fishing”) 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MrEff87 0 #7 Posted November 4, 2023 Sorry for the delayed response, busy week. Just want to thank you all for your input. I’ll update ya’ll in the coming days! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
