42” WH Mower Deck

[KVustrud 92]

The more I learn, the more concerned I am about the 42 mowing decks durability. Some info. seems to make them seem somewhat “fragile.”

 

Are the 37 or 48 deck options much more durable than the 42?  Or am I completely overthinking this?
 

Has anyone added top reinforcement plates or beefed up the 42” deck in any way?

Edited October 24, 2023 by KVustrud

[KVustrud 92]

I’ll add a bit, I want to make this tractor perform flawlessly and last forever. If the 42” deck is worth time/effort to do so, I’ll keep it. If not, I’ll try to find a 48 or a 37 deck. I want a deck I can know is durable and will last. I’d prob be fine running a 48” deck with 12 HP also as I’m only cutting a very nice Bermuda lawn at around 2”. 
 

However,  if I have 8” front wheels, can I even run a 37” deck?

 

Here’s current deck/tractor setup. 
 

I had posted some about this in my other thread, but wanted to really focus on the deck here. Deck heigh adjustment bracket is bent, need ideas in fixing that as well if I keep this deck. 

Edited October 24, 2023 by KVustrud

[KVustrud 92]

Level height adjustment bracket is bent…

 

[elcamino/wheelhorse 9,326]

I think the newer decks (all sizes ) are not made of the same thickness steel as the older decks . I run 36 inch rd decks from the 70's ,I get a work out moving them around. Also have a 42 inch rd deck that is heavy as all get out. 

[lynnmor 7,308]

The 42" side discharge does have a reputation of being less durable but since you appear to be more careful than some I wouldn't worry about it.   Keeping any mower deck cleaned of buildup on the bottom side will reduce the weakness caused by rust.  If there is serious rust or cracks, then I would move on.  The bent L shaped bracket on the adjuster is a simple job, just remove it and straighten it in a vise.  There should be a pin attached to the lever inside the spring that goes thru the hole to the left.  Adjust the L shaped bracket so that there is almost no gap.

[Skwerl58 704]

I use my 1987 year deck and it is fine. Sure I have rebuilt the spindles, clean it, lube the bottom, and touch it up but it is still doing the job well. I have at times abused it but it still is doing great. Do a good bottom cleaning and do a good lube on it, flip it over brush on oil, spray on chain lube and set it in the sun. Repeat at least once annually and rust is eliminated. Greasy Pete has been more than gracious to share his lube knowledge and hopefully he will be along shortly or another member to better explain the process. 

[KVustrud 92]

Sounds good!

 

New blades coming today so I'm going to pressure wash the bottom side out, replace the blades, remove and fix the L bracket and then re-grease everything and set it in the sun to dry. 

 

Interesting on the oil/chain lube.  I was going to coat in WD40 and set in the sun.....Curious to learn more about that. 

[Handy Don 12,237]

Our experience with two 42” RDs has been great. One has the recycler insert which adds at least another 20 lbs to it but does a nice job of mulching in the clippings.

Both needed a bit of maintenance when we got them. On one the height control fix that @lynnmor noted. On the other, the PO had used the deck as a step to get on and off the tractor (really?!) and so the shaft connecting the two gauge wheels was torqued making one side run lower than the other--also fixable once diagnosed!

For our mowing of moderate-sized areas, being able to get close up to plantings etc. on either side of the deck makes things easier and faster and the cut quality is just fine.

IMHO, if you keep up with maintenance, including the tensioner mechanism (I bought a spare set of the nylon guides from Lowell as insurance!), you can expect unlimited life.

Edited October 24, 2023 by Handy Don

[kpinnc 12,096]

3 hours ago, KVustrud said:

I want to make this tractor perform flawlessly and last forever.

 

Yours already has the reinforced front guard. Not much else to do.

 

The 48 did not have the reinforcement stamped in like the 42 does, so they added a plate instead. Just a different design. 

 

Keep in mind it's lasted 30 years like it is. All you need to do is keep greasing spndles and keep the clippings cleared out. 

[KVustrud 92]

I did notice the reinforcement on the front....

 

However, I just went to remove the L-Bracket and noticed this.  The L bracket itself is not bent, look at it from this angle.  You can see that it is actually pulling on the bolts and "pulling" the shell of the deck out when the weight of the mower is on the rear wheels.  This is what is allowing the l-bracket to bend outward.  

 

I looked closely at the shell condition and it really does seem to be in good shape.

 

What's the best fix here?

[kpinnc 12,096]

4 minutes ago, KVustrud said:

What's the best fix here?

 

Some later models had a 1/8 plate inside to reinforce that area. You can add a couple fender washers under the nuts on the underside and it should be fine.

[KVustrud 92]

1 minute ago, kpinnc said:

 

Some later models had a 1/8 plate inside to reinforce that area. You can add a couple fender washers under the nuts on the underside and it should be fine.

 

That was my first thought, will do!  I'll bend it back, remove it, and get some good sized washers under there.

 

This all has me thinking, seems like the deck hardware is all pretty stout and the shell itself is the weak point.

 

All of my spindles, levers, arms etc. etc. look almost new.

 

I'm going to start mocking up a new fabricated shell out of carboard.  I have a welder, and if I used this shell for the general dimensions I bet I could

build a fabricated deck out of 1/8" steel for not a whole lot of money.  I have a working deck now, so no real rush.  But If I can get the shell close in size/shape

along with the baffles on the underside it should cut well enough.....as long as the lifting points, and all other attachments mount up in the correct spots and everything it really wouldn't be that hard.

 

Main thing would be getting the 3 spindles the exact distances apart so there's no uncut grass.

 

This would be a fun project and I'd start a new thread of course.  Primed and painted red, that'd be pretty sweet!

 

You think a 1/8" fabricated shell would be thick enough to last forever? 

[kpinnc 12,096]

Just now, KVustrud said:

This all has me thinking, seems like the deck hardware is all pretty stout and the shell itself is the weak point.

 

Under normal use, it's plenty strong. Driving it into things while trying to mow up close to an object can occasionally bend something, but it takes a big hit to do it.

 

Keep in mind that 1/8 steel is gonna be very heavy. Couple that with manual lift, and it might not be as good as you think. Nevermind removing and installing such a beast. I have two fabricated decks that are absolutely NO FUN when it's time to take them off or put them back due to the weight. The 42 is nice because it is strong but not too heavy. 

[KVustrud 92]

Just now, kpinnc said:

 

Under normal use, it's plenty strong. Driving it into things while trying to mow up close to an object can occasionally bend something, but it takes a big hit to do it.

 

Keep in mind that 1/8 steel is gonna be very heavy. Couple that with manual lift, and it might not be as good as you think. Nevermind removing and installing such a beast. I have two fabricated decks that are absolutely NO FUN when it's time to take them off or put them back due to the weight. The 42 is nice because it is strong but not too heavy. 

 

Yeah, very true.  My main goal will be to get and keep this current 42" nice.  I think I'll still get some steel cut and start welding just to see how it turns out.  It'll take me a while as I do not have much free time right now, but I need some practice anyway! 

[lynnmor 7,308]

46 minutes ago, KVustrud said:

 

You think a 1/8" fabricated shell would be thick enough to last forever? 

You want forever, use stainless steel.  If you are going to all that trouble a stainless steel deck can be made thinner for lighter weight, depending on mild steel to rust away at an acceptable rate is a game you don't want to play.

[Handy Don 12,237]

54 minutes ago, KVustrud said:

 

Yeah, very true.  My main goal will be to get and keep this current 42" nice.  I think I'll still get some steel cut and start welding just to see how it turns out.  It'll take me a while as I do not have much free time right now, but I need some practice anyway! 

I’m not sure how much pleasure and satisfaction fabricating a deck shell might bring to you personally. That said, the direct costs for materials are likely equal to the purchase price of two (or more?) usable decks. If what you’re looking for is one or more “workers” so your existing deck will outlive you, that is.

To me, making something is what I do when there is no other way to meet the need, it's faster/more cost-effective, or it’ll be fun/teach me something.

[kpinnc 12,096]

30 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

To me, making something is what I do when there is no other way to meet the need, it's faster/more cost-effective, or it’ll be fun/teach me something.

 

Ditto.

 

Although sometimes, "teach me something" isn't always "fun"... 

[Horse Newbie 7,075]

Just my 2 cents worth…

I agree with @Handy Don

I would definitely put an ad in our classifieds for one or two useable decks.

You said you were not in a hurry, so you have time to shop.

And I seriously bet by the time you buy the material and supplies to fab a deck, you will have as much or more money in the home built deck.

[KVustrud 92]

Alright, got some work done and buncha new hardware! Much better! 
 

Do the three blades need to be oriented in any specific way compared to each other?  
 

I was assuming with belt, slippage, a single blade hitting a thicker spot, etc. they’ll always kind of move around anyway. 

 

 

Edited October 25, 2023 by KVustrud

[Horse Newbie 7,075]

2 hours ago, KVustrud said:

Do the three blades need to be oriented in any specific way compared to each other?

Nope just put them on, (as long as you don’t have them upside down).

These blades/ decks are not timed…

looks like you’ve got it !

Edited October 25, 2023 by Horse Newbie

[KVustrud 92]

Deck looks to be in excellent shape after getting a close look tonight! 
 

[lynnmor 7,308]

10 hours ago, KVustrud said:

Deck looks to be in excellent shape after getting a close look tonight! 
 

Now finish scraping the crud on the deck bottom and treat the surface with oil, I use Fluid Film since it doesn't run off and applies quickly.  Yes, it will need to be applied after every use for maximum protection.  Besides preventing deck rust, the oil will also protect the fasteners so that you have a chance of removing them when service is needed.

[cleat 6,062]

This picture is my 48" deck so height adjustment is on the opposite side but here is the plate I made up for it.

 

The red you see is grease being squished out that I liberally applied between plate and deck.

 

[KVustrud 92]

I thought about making a plate like that, the washers seem to stiffen it up nicely though!  Took it for a spin this morning, grass is going dormant so kind of hard to tell but sure does cut nice! 

[KVustrud 92]

Is it safe to pressure wash underside of deck before coating?  obviously would grease again and set it in the sun to dry.