Looking for metal roof advice

[RandyLittrell 3,877]

My shop and sheds got hammered with hail a couple of weeks ago and I think I want to go to metal roofing. It seems to having a longer lifespan and I like that is can be recycled if needed again. 

 

Any advise on what system to use and maybe point me to some video's about it. My son and future son in law need some extra money and thinking we will do it ourselves.

 

It is just a 24x24 garage and a shed half that size. Low pitch as well. 

 

My son in law to be's Dad does roofing for a living and I know he will give us some advice, but it seems one of you guys is always an expert and have never given me bad advice yet!!!

 

I just finished painting my shop and the little shed a month ago to match my big shed. State Farm estimator will be there tomorrow. 

 

Thanks in advance for the help!!!!!

 

 

 

Edited October 17, 2023 by RandyLittrell

[953 nut 55,229]

        Rather than stripping off the shingles I would suggest you run 2 X 4s lengthwise two feet on center and lay in some 1 1/2" foam board between them then attach the metal roofing over the foam. Added insulation and sound deadening all in one.

[WHX?? 48,815]

Nice looking  outbuildings Randy. 

 

Steel roofs are the only way to go IMHO. Especially on sheds. 

Two types you may be interested in are standing seam or standard 3 foot steel panels with 9 inch ribs on center. 

I have both types so both work for me. 

You can go over the existing roof with panels if the shingles still lay flat. 3/4 boards 30 inch on center suffice. I wouldn't worry about foam as Richard suggested they are just unheated sheds. 

Pesonnally I would remove the shingles for sheathing inspection & replacement if required. You dont get a second crack at that. 

Standing seams should not go over shingles but there is a type of underlayment that is used. A plastic sheeting if I remember right. 

 

 

 

 

[kwalshy 229]

Assuming the structure can handle the extra weight of metal roof panels, you would not need to tear off shingles.  If it were me, I'd inspect the sheathing for rot/damage, replace as needed, put down a barrier, 30# felt paper, over the shingles and attach the metal directly to the roof.  Some folks might suggest furring strips on the roof for metal roof panel attachment to increase ventilation, but depends on your budget.

Edited October 17, 2023 by kwalshy

[SylvanLakeWH 25,558]

@Pullstart just redid 3 barns in metal roof i believe... Kevin?

Edited October 17, 2023 by SylvanLakeWH

[Pullstart 62,878]

18 minutes ago, SylvanLakeWH said:

@Pullstart just redid 3 barns in metal roof i believe... Kevin?

only 2 

 

I know it’s common practice to lay furring strips down and roof away, but I would never recommend that, even to my evil neighbor.  Well….   Reason being, is metal will condense with temperature swings.  Condensation will run down the underside of the steel, then hit the furring strip dam and eventually rot it out.  

 

Research local code, what is acceptable for going over, total layers, etc, then decide what to do.  I don’t know about your average summer heat index, etc and too much heat is never great on structures.  On the other hand, if it isn’t leaking and you go over it, it’s essentially another layer of protection.

 

I prefer a premium underlayment no matter what I am roofing, it becomes the waterproof membrane.  If insurance is paying for it and you’re doing the work, you can surely afford a good underlayment.  This stuff I recently used was a foil backed bubble wrap type stuff. 
 

No matter what you decide, do not cheap out on ventilation!  It is as important as the roof itself!

 

 

[Pullstart 62,878]

 

[RandyLittrell 3,877]

4 hours ago, WHX?? said:

Nice looking  outbuildings Randy. 

 

Steel roofs are the only way to go IMHO. Especially on sheds. 

Two types you may be interested in are standing seam or standard 3 foot steel panels with 9 inch ribs on center. 

I have both types so both work for me. 

You can go over the existing roof with panels if the shingles still lay flat. 3/4 boards 30 inch on center suffice. I wouldn't worry about foam as Richard suggested they are just unheated sheds. 

Pesonnally I would remove the shingles for sheathing inspection & replacement if required. You dont get a second crack at that. 

Standing seams should not go over shingles but there is a type of underlayment that is used. A plastic sheeting if I remember right. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you for the kind words. It took me a month to paint the shop and little shed and I painted them to match the big shed. I get stuff done with a broke down body, but it just takes time!!! 

 

 

I agree on not going over the shingles. I want to strip it down and inspect and use a quality membrane under it. 

 

@Pullstart posted so good info and will take your guys advice and do my research!! 

 

 

 

 

Randy

[RandyLittrell 3,877]

2 hours ago, Pullstart said:

only 2 

 

I know it’s common practice to lay furring strips down and roof away, but I would never recommend that, even to my evil neighbor.  Well….   Reason being, is metal will condense with temperature swings.  Condensation will run down the underside of the steel, then hit the furring strip dam and eventually rot it out.  

 

Research local code, what is acceptable for going over, total layers, etc, then decide what to do.  I don’t know about your average summer heat index, etc and too much heat is never great on structures.  On the other hand, if it isn’t leaking and you go over it, it’s essentially another layer of protection.

 

I prefer a premium underlayment no matter what I am roofing, it becomes the waterproof membrane.  If insurance is paying for it and you’re doing the work, you can surely afford a good underlayment.  This stuff I recently used was a foil backed bubble wrap type stuff. 
 

No matter what you decide, do not cheap out on ventilation!  It is as important as the roof itself!

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you Kevin!! What you posted is pretty much what I had in mind, just wanted to hear from you guys. 

 

I do believe in stripping it down and in the quality membrane under it. I have 4 aluminum vents that just got demolished and thought a ridge vent with metal is the way to go..

 

Your roofs look very nice, you do good work!!

 

Thank you for the video link, I will get to watching!! 

 

 

 

 

Randy

[RandyLittrell 3,877]

Here is what the shop and shed looked like before I started, now to just decide on the color of roof.

 

White or brown is about the only choice with dark brown exterior. 

 

I bought a scaffold to help with the painting and it will most likely help with the roofing! 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited October 17, 2023 by RandyLittrell

[953 nut 55,229]

3 hours ago, Pullstart said:

metal will condense with temperature swings.  Condensation will run down the underside of the steel, then hit the furring strip dam and eventually rot it out.

That is the reason for the foam insulation. The metal will be in direct contact with the foam insulation and prevent condensation from being able to form. The 2 X 4s will allow good fastening where you are over the void between roof rafters. Most sheds have 1/2" OSB for roof sheathing and you can't get a screw to hold very well in thast stuff.

[JoeM 7,874]

I have seen all different roofs in the neighborhood installed. I got to say, no matter the type, they are only as good as the guy installing them. 

 

Seen all kinds of problems with all types. 
 

As far as the metal stuff the screws are one item you want to get right. Need to research the different types and applications. 

 

 

[WHX?? 48,815]

2 hours ago, RandyLittrell said:

Your roofs look very nice, you do good work!!

Don't tell Kev I said this he'll get a big head...but his roofs do look nice...

T-111 siding Randy? I woulda been real tempted to cover that with steel too.  Best thing that I did to my shop. This was over RB & B ... same junk as T-111.

Get to be my age maintenance free is a real winner. 

[WHX?? 48,815]

1 hour ago, 953 nut said:

 prevent condensation from being able to form.

They do offer a panel with a felt like coating on the underside now to prevent condensation.  Regretfully unheard of in my day tho. My big warehouse has nothing and if conditions are just right it has been known to rain in ther. More so in the open air lean to. 

Now @953 nut needs to come and resurface the table saw... 

[RandyLittrell 3,877]

32 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

Don't tell Kev I said this he'll get a big head...but his roofs do look nice...

T-111 siding Randy? I woulda been real tempted to cover that with steel too.  Best thing that I did to my shop. This was over RB & B ... same junk as T-111.

Get to be my age maintenance free is a real winner. 

 

 

Yes, it is T-111 and it has some issues. But......I gave 10 grand for the property and the 2 car garage 8 years ago. I have added the big shed and luckily I bought it before Covid prices. The little shed I bought used for $200 and drug it home on my car trailer. 

 

I have about $500 in paint and my labor and I am just happy to have a nice place to play with my toys. The guy that built it knew about electrical, but nothing about pouring concrete of building a wooden structure. There isn't anything straight or level in the whole place. I can't imagine trying to make nice square metal siding fit it!!!

 

I haven't put the tape to it yet, but I wouldn't doubt the roof isn't square either. 

 

I am trying to do the right thing but may end up going the easy route and just put shingles on again. 

 

I have a lot to process before I jump into the roof, it's not leaking at the moment, so I have some time to think. 

 

 

 

Thanks for all the help folks!!!!

 

Randy

[WHX?? 48,815]

6 minutes ago, RandyLittrell said:

gave 10 grand for the property and the 2 car garage 8 years ago

In other words you  it. 

 

8 minutes ago, RandyLittrell said:

 

I have about $500 in paint and my labor and I am just happy to have a nice place to play with my toys.

Yep understood... steel 10x that. 

 

9 minutes ago, RandyLittrell said:

may end up going the easy route and just put shingles on again. 

 

Nothin wrong with that either. 

11 minutes ago, RandyLittrell said:

have some time to think. 

Good plan 👌 

[Pullstart 62,878]

10 hours ago, RandyLittrell said:

may end up going the easy route and just put shingles on again.

 

10 hours ago, WHX?? said:

Nothin wrong with that either. 

I know there is always a time and place, and a value vs. investment, etc.  as for me, I never plan to do anything but steel on anything I care about.  It just makes sense to do steel and do it well.

 

As for the poly underlayment, I just looked up the numbers.  I think my roofing was something like 80 square.  The underlayment from the gutters to the ridge was a tad over $1,100.  For the value it holds, that’s negligible.  

[RandyLittrell 3,877]

2 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

 

I know there is always a time and place, and a value vs. investment, etc.  as for me, I never plan to do anything but steel on anything I care about.  It just makes sense to do steel and do it well.

 

As for the poly underlayment, I just looked up the numbers.  I think my roofing was something like 80 square.  The underlayment from the gutters to the ridge was a tad over $1,100.  For the value it holds, that’s negligible.  

 

 

I will most likely go metal as it is the right thing to do for me, I really like the longevity and recylability of steel roofing.

 

It is just a matter of making it look right on my buildings. I was really happy how nice my shop looked after I painted it and it will look different with a metal roof and the trim that goes along with it. 

 

I currently have 4 vents in the roof on the side you can't see in the pic. With metal I will need to open up the ridge which is easy enough, is there a screen that can go under the ridge vent to keep insects and critters out? I assume yes. I tend to be an over planner and research things to death rather and than just jump in feet first. Sorry to ask so many questions!!!

 

I still need to confer with my future son in laws Dad since he works for a roofing company. 

 

 

 

Thanks for all the help and please keep posting things I need to know!!

 

 

Randy

[Pullstart 62,878]

I generally set my skill saw about 2” from the ridge on either side and rip away.  Not a ton of precision in that cut.  Once the steel is on, there is a very spongy synthetic ridge vent roll.  On my pictures above, they were stabbed through by my shop broom.  These had a sealant strip on them and stuck to the steel.  The ridge cap then goes over that and smushes it in place.  Bugs cannot penetrate and apparently water doesn’t either!

 

One thing to think about, and the value is priceless as well, is a few hand tools needed for steel.  I have an assortment of hand shears, and a 4” hand brake.  
 

My work shop barn has a lean to off the back of it.  The roof line is 36’ long. The steel supplier recommended a 6” overlap if I chose to put up two panels.  I went with a 19’ panel, which yielded 2’ overlap.  Overkill?  Yup.  Worth the extra $112.20?  Absolutely!

[953 nut 55,229]

12 hours ago, WHX?? said:

Now @953 nut needs to come and resurface the table saw..

What!    Not my fault that you haven't insulated the underside of your roof.        I could do a virtual resurfacing - I will give you instructions over the phone and guide you through the process!  Next best thing to being there beside you.  

13 hours ago, WHX?? said:

T-111 siding Randy? I woulda been real tempted to cover that with steel too.  Best thing that I did to my shop. This was over RB & B ... same junk as T-111.

Get to be my age maintenance free is a real winner.

That is why we went with Hardie Plank siding on our house and workshop. The house we had in Florida had T-111 when we bought it and I replaced it with 1/2" CDX and Hardie Board. The fifteen year old T-111 was so soft it wasn't hard to remove, get one edge loose and pull the whole sheet off by hand. Twenty years and many hurricanes later when we sold the house the Hardie Board looked like new.

[WHX?? 48,815]

5 hours ago, 953 nut said:

I could do a virtual resurfacing 

Already done Richard... steel wool rust remover and alot of elbow grease. It's kept oiled and covered now. 

The 111 on the shop was defective. When it went through rollers the machine that applied material down skipped a beat for lack of a better word. It left horizontal voids. Bugs then went in it. Wood peckers then went after the bugs. Some instances right through the sheeting. Try that on steel Woody! 

Manufacturer Louisiana Pacific pretty much told me to pack sand. Wished we woulda had social media back then I'd left em smoking. 

This is RB & B style but same thing as 111 just grooved different. 

[RandyLittrell 3,877]

Well after reading all your advice, talking to the estimator and some folks near my shop with metal roofing, I am going to go metal roofing. 

 

I am also going to go the furring strip route right over the shingles, several homes near my shop have gone this route and have been very happy with it. 

 

I will also be the easiest way for us as well. 

 

We will start with the little shed and work our way up for practice!! Really glad I bought the scaffolding now and the little shed is gonna get a lean-to while we are at it! 

 

 

Again, Thanks for all the help!!!!

 

 

Randy