GT1800 Hydro refresh for our friends!

[cleat 5,923]

On 10/18/2023 at 7:38 PM, ebinmaine said:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Where did you get this paint ?

How well has it held up ?

Thanks.

[ebinmaine 67,421]

12 hours ago, cleat said:

 

Where did you get this paint ?

 

Probably from a local parts store that's serviced by carquest. It's available on multiple internet sites.

 

 

 

 

 

 

12 hours ago, cleat said:

How well has it held up ?

 

Thanks.

 

I haven't seen it in person for a few weeks but I'll check with the guy that has the tractor. 

[ebinmaine 67,421]

I'd say we have a paint winner at least for the short time it's been in use. 

He's had it a few months. Used it for snow removal and pulling and mowing. 

 

 

 

[cleat 5,923]

Awesome, I will see if I can get some when I cross the border to pick up the parts.

 

Did that engine come with these covers on it ?

 

As you can see mine is very dented and I am looking for a replacement.

 

[ebinmaine 67,421]

7 hours ago, cleat said:

Awesome, I will see if I can get some when I cross the border to pick up the parts.

 

Did that engine come with these covers on it ?

 

 

All the solid sheet metal was on it. Trina made up the perforated part. 

 

You can include Sears, Craftsman,  Craftsmen in your search. I spelled that two different ways in purpose. I learned then that both existed. 

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,421]

Yesterday we picked up the Workhorse GT1800 at our friend's house for some minor repairs and routine maintenance. 

 

(List is mostly for our own documentation)

 

CHECK ALL NUTS BOLTS & PINS FOR 

PROPER TORQUE 

 

Check and top off hydro/system transmission oil. 

 

Change engine oil.

 

Grease below steering wheel and whole front axle. 

 

Deck maximum up & down adjustment.

Deck level adjustment. 

 

Straighten air filter base.

Make gasket?

 

DONE. Replace hydro lines. 

DONE. Inspect/ repair hydro lever connection. 

DONE. Clean hydro system. 

 

DONE. Copper bushing for lift lever. 

 

DONE. Replace fuel filter. 

DONE. REMOVE primer bulb. 

DONE. Drain fuel tank. 

DONE. Remove section of blue fuel line.

 

DONE. Rewire ignition switch. Adjust wire length. 

 

DONE. Replace clutch plate. 

 

DONE. PTO adjustment.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,421]

Gotta pick up a couple small pahts tomorrow and then we'll see about finishing up...

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,421]

We could use some help from you folks that are more tech savvy and familiar with these Eaton 1100 machines. 

@cleat @Handy Don @gwest_ca

 

There's a fastener that goes through the brake rod which holds rod to cam. 

Cotter? Hair pin? 

Size? 

HARDNESS?

Note the caps. We've tried TWO 1/16 cotter pins. Both broke in short term. 

Should it be a hardened pin? 

 

 

 

 

In other news, 

I got a 1/4" x 2" clevis pin for the up/ down lever pivot. Cut it. Ground it. Installed it. 

 

 

The other day we had evacuated the fuel tank using a battery operated pump. 

Lots of... stuff... was sucked out. 

Today we capped off the same pump with a shop rag to filter the gas and refilled the gas tank. 

 

 

[Handy Don 12,212]

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

There's a fastener that goes through the brake rod which holds rod to cam. 

Cotter? Hair pin? 

Size? 

HARDNESS?

Note the caps. We've tried TWO 1/16 cotter pins. Both broke in short term. 

Should it be a hardened pin? 

I did a post some years back on that after I found it busted on a 518 chassis and the brakes becoming unusable.

The hole is 1/16 and a cotter without a washer is in the IPL. Less than ideal for long term strength

 

Edited July 9 by Handy Don

[cleat 5,923]

I use a hairpin clip.

If you can fit a washer under it that would help.

I have a picture of the cam plate pivot. It should have very little side play but rotate freely.

 

The brake rod should move fore and aft but should not try and pull out of the cam plate.

If it does maybe something is bent or twisted.

I can't find a picture of the assembled parts.

I will try and get one tomorrow.

 

 

Edited July 9 by cleat

[Handy Don 12,212]

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

Added this lever to my 520-H++ to operate the standard lift as a separate circuit when I removed the side-of-the-hoodstand lever to make room for the front hydraulics joystick.

 My only irritation is that pushing forward on the lever RAISES the implement and pulling back lowers it. Just doesn’t feel right but changing it (by reversing the cylinder hoses at the control valve) didn’t seem like a great idea either since we have the same lever on the 312-H.  Decided to develop new muscle memory instead!

Edited July 9 by Handy Don

[Horse Newbie 7,068]

On 7/7/2024 at 1:33 PM, ebinmaine said:

DONE. REMOVE primer bulb.

Why did you remove the primer bulb ?

[ebinmaine 67,421]

@Handy Don and @cleat 

That's perfect. Tells us exactly what we thought. 

I'll see if I can get a better cotter pin or maybe a piece of 1/16 wire. 

We couldn't get a hair pin in due to lack of space. 

 

 

 

 

6 hours ago, Horse Newbie said:

Why did you remove the primer bulb ?

 

 

The cheap garbage bulbs I bought were prone leaking. I've replaced a couple already and trashed the other one I had on the shelf. 

I bought better quality ones. 

 

The reason for not reinstalling any primer bulb on this tractor is that being a Briggs engine with a good Mikuni vacuum fuel pump it just does not need to be primed. Ever. Even when we empty the fuel system it turns just a few times and roars right to work.  

 

I still highly recommend primer bulbs and/ or electric fuel pumps for other engines. 

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,421]

Last week we delivered the Workhorse back to Tom and Ali only to have him call 10 minutes later because ANOTHER HOSE BLEW!!!

 

Awesome. 

 

So we picked it up and Trina set to another disassembly.  

THIS time we're replacing ALL THREE of the other hoses AND rebuilding the hydraulic valve.  

Parts will be ordered today. 

 

 

 

 

[Handy Don 12,212]

I’ve seen leaks at the connections, but at 700 psi, these hoses don’t fail. This must be from friction somewhere on the hose to wear it through. The units with 1100’s I’ve touched all had hardline tubing from the pump to the valve with hoses only valve-to-cylinder and friction relief where they pass through tins.

[cleat 5,923]

Most of my machines are hydro and only ever had one hose fail.

That one was rubbing on a steering gear.

The only other leaks i ever seem to have are hose or valve o rings.

[ebinmaine 67,421]

This beast is now headed back together with the 2 shorter hoses being original Wheelhorse and the two long ones new aftermarket by our own Lowell at Wheelhorsepartsandmore. 

 

We did order the valve orings but the screw in the end will NOT move beyond a beginning of twisting off. 

If that leaks it'll need to be rebuilt by someone else. 

 

Other than a change to the rear wiring it's ready for reassembly and testing. 

 

I want to thank @JCM in particular for a discussion we had a few months ago about he installed his own hoses and how to finagle them in place while the tractor is assembled. 

 

 

 

[JCM 9,130]

55 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

 

I want to thank @JCM in particular for a discussion we had a few months ago about he installed his own hoses and how to finagle them in place while the tractor is assembled. 

 

 

I appreciate the shout out but I think you have me confused with another member. No recollection of a conversation here  

 

[ebinmaine 67,421]

@JCM

It was definitely you but it might have been a few months or two years for all I remember.

It wasn't about this particular tractor.

We were shooting the breeze about one of your 520s I think maybe while we were working on the 417 that used to be here....

 

[JCM 9,130]

I have never removed hydraulic rubber hose's on either 520's or 400 series, only metal ones. I do have spare OEM metal lines and NOS valve though. I did install one of the metal lines on my previous 520 I sold to replace an incorrect rubber one that was installed by the PO to make it factory correct. That may have been the conversation you are talking about.

[JCM 9,130]

Sitting in the seat between your legs on the front of the Eaton there is a 90 degree elbow that faces down that you need an 11/ 16'' crow foot attached to a long 3/8'' extension that is a PIT neck to get at. That I remember warning you of the fun involved with that one

[ebinmaine 67,421]

5 minutes ago, JCM said:

Sitting in the seat between your legs on the front of the Eaton there is a 90 degree elbow that faces down that you need an 11/ 16'' crow foot attached to a long 3/8'' extension that is a PIT neck to get at. That I remember warning you of the fun involved with that one

 

 

 I remember that pretty specifically. 

 

I would be willing to bet we were talking about what would NEED to be done. Not what you HAD already done. And I just switched things around.

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,421]

The Local Tractor Repair Professional has been right on this one some of the afternoon. 

All back together. 

We'll test it out and check for leaks then bring it back home. Again..

 

 

[TractorEd 633]

You’re a real blessing to Tom and Ali.  And to all that get to see your hard work!

😇

[Handy Don 12,212]

On 7/25/2024 at 7:45 AM, JCM said:

Sitting in the seat between your legs on the front of the Eaton there is a 90 degree elbow that faces down that you need an 11/ 16'' crow foot attached to a long 3/8'' extension that is a PIT neck to get at. That I remember warning you of the fun involved with that one

That little PIT fitting can also get in the way of the motion control “rocker” and prevent it from going down at the rear the correct distance. The rocker already has a half-moon cutout but it might not be enough--I had to deepen it by a bit over ⅜” to be able to get full reverse while still keeping all the other bits of the linkage in working alignment!