GT1800 Hydro refresh for our friends!

[Jayzauto 89]

Unrekognizeable........   I knew it went into good hands!!!

 

And you didn't hafta alter the Engine numbers!!!!!   Great Job Trina.... She's a Keeper!!!!

 

Thanx, Jay

[Horse Newbie 7,069]

@ebinmaine ,

Please post some more pics of your progress, and especially when you’re finished…

[ebinmaine 67,502]

5 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

@ebinmaine ,

Please post some more pics of your progress, and especially when you’re finished…

Absolutely.  

We'll be working on it more this weekend.  

 

Trina did take some time yesterday to pressure wash the chassis.  There was some interesting (yellow grease??) ALL over the shift linkage.  

That whole area should be dry lubed or no lube.  

 

If anyone has pics of the flywheel screen fan as mounted on a WHEELHORSE engine. 

Just wondering if the WH had the secondary screen like the Craftsman and what the WH flywheel screen should look like.   

 

 

[Horse Newbie 7,069]

10 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

anyone has pics of the flywheel screen fan as mounted on a WHEELHORSE engine. 

Just wondering if the WH had the secondary screen like the Craftsman and what the WH flywheel screen should look like. 

Here’s one, if this is what you mean.

This is a 16hp opposed Briggs…

You can zoom in for a better view. It is a stamped piece of perforated metal with small holes about 1/8 th inch in diameter…

I’ll see if I can find some better pics…

[ebinmaine 67,502]

5 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

Here’s one, if this is what you mean.

This is a 16hp opposed Briggs…

You can zoom in for a better view. It is a stamped piece of perforated metal with small holes about 1/8 th inch in diameter…

 

I’ll see if I can find some better pics…

 

 

Ok cool. Thanks Tim. 

 

That pic shows what we needed to see.  

 

Trina will take a look around tomorrow to see what we have laying around.  

 

 

[Horse Newbie 7,069]

Here’s more pics of the flywheel screen… do you want me to look tomorrow and see if there is a round screen actually bolted to the flywheel ?

[ebinmaine 67,502]

12 hours ago, Horse Newbie said:

Here’s more pics of the flywheel screen… do you want me to look tomorrow and see if there is a round screen actually bolted to the flywheel ?

 

No worries on the additional screen.  

We have a couple Kohler screens that are slightly larger than the opening on this Briggs.  

It would be nice if one of those could be riveted on.  

 

[Horse Newbie 7,069]

I’m not sure the flywheel actually has a screen on it…

may only have the one that wraps the whole flywheel side of the engine tins.

I am sure that @c-series don would know if he happens to stroll by…

[c-series don 8,707]

The actual flywheel DOES NOT have a screen. It’s just the large screen that wraps the entire side of the engine as stated.

[Horse Newbie 7,069]

Thank you @c-series don ,

you kept me from having to go out to the horse barn…

[ebinmaine 67,502]

2 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

kept me from having to go out to the horse barn…

Feel free to do so anyway if ya like. I wouldn't wanna keep you from that area.  

[Horse Newbie 7,069]

Just now, ebinmaine said:

Feel free to do so anyway if ya like. I wouldn't wanna keep you from that area.  

Well the Cubs stay in the horse barn as well, and I didn’t want to be mauled by a bear Cub…😆

[ebinmaine 67,502]

I need some electrical system info folks. 

 

This tractor has had all the safety switches bypassed before we got it so take them out of the thought process. 

 

 

In the above pic,

The engine output from behind the flywheel has two wires. 

Black feeds to chassis wire orange which was connected to lights. I won't be using that. 

 

Red feeds chassis red which I believe is the charging wire for the battery. 

 

When we got the tractor the red went to one side of the ammeter. The other side of the ammeter was connected by 2 separate wires to both the B terminal on the key switch and the battery directly, via the solenoid terminal. 

 

I've REMOVED the ammeter. 

 

There was NO Voltage Regulator.   

 

Do I NEED a VR?

 

If not ..  do I connect the red wire from engine direct to battery as it was? Add a fuse?

Then a wire from that same solenoid large terminal to the ignition switch to power the lights ?

 

[ebinmaine 67,502]

Trina got the brake band and lining off. 

That linkage is a bit rusty and worn. Not horrible, just needs attention.  

The lining however is no good. It's come unglued (like me). 

 

We'll clean up the brake band and reline and realign.  

 

 

 

We also did more cleanup on the transmission top shift linkage. 

Remove. Clean. Degrease. Hand sanded/planed the sliding plate.  

Seems better.  

 

The pivot bolt for the cam that runs the brake pedal was loose. Trina removed that bolt, got a slightly longer one and added a new nyloc nut.  MUCH better.  

 

 

[Handy Don 12,232]

19 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

I need some electrical system info folks. 

 

This tractor has had all the safety switches bypassed before we got it so take them out of the thought process. 

 

 

In the above pic,

The engine output from behind the flywheel has two wires. 

Black feeds to chassis wire orange which was connected to lights. I won't be using that. 

 

Red feeds chassis red which I believe is the charging wire for the battery. 

 

When we got the tractor the red went to one side of the ammeter. The other side of the ammeter was connected by 2 separate wires to both the B terminal on the key switch and the battery directly, via the solenoid terminal. 

 

I've REMOVED the ammeter. 

 

There was NO Voltage Regulator.   

 

Do I NEED a VR?

 

If not ..  do I connect the red wire from engine direct to battery as it was? Add a fuse?

Then a wire from that same solenoid large terminal to the ignition switch to power the lights ?

 

I strongly suspect that there is a diode in that black shrink wrap leading to the red-wire-side of the connector coming from ONE set of stator windings. If so, you are getting pulsed positive voltage/current for charging the battery--voltage would be RPM dependent and probably at 1-2 amps. How much current would have been shown on the ammeter.

Similarly, the Orange is likely from a separate stator winding and producing AC voltage from minus to plus 12-ish volts (?) at a similar 1-2 amps. Fine for incandescent lighting. Useless for LED lighting (it’ll flicker and be OFF when the engine is stopped!)

VR not relevant since you are not going to convert variable AC to DC for charging.

Edited October 30, 2023 by Handy Don

[ebinmaine 67,502]

25 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

I strongly suspect that there is a diode in that black shrink wrap leading to the red-wire-side of the connector coming from ONE set of stator windings. If so, you are getting pulsed positive voltage/current for charging the battery--voltage would be RPM dependent and probably at 1-2 amps. How much current would have been shown on the ammeter.

Similarly, the Orange is likely from a separate stator winding and producing AC voltage from minus to plus 12-ish volts (?) at a similar 1-2 amps. Fine for incandescent lighting. Useless for LED lighting (it’ll flicker and be OFF when the engine is stopped!)

VR not relevant since you are not going to convert variable AC to DC for charging.

 

 

That's what I was thinking as well.  

 

The ammeter was removed because it had old water stains both "white mineral"  and rust. 

 

I may put a Volt Gauge in later but it's not my tractor or money to spend.  

 

Lights will be LED and direct to battery connection.   

 

 

[Bill D 1,921]

30 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

 

That's what I was thinking as well.  

 

The ammeter was removed because it had old water stains both "white mineral"  and rust. 

 

I may put a Volt Gauge in later but it's not my tractor or money to spend.  

 

Lights will be LED and direct to battery connection.   

 

 

Find a dead Vanguard and pull the stator and rectifier.  That would give you a 15 amp charging system.  Easy to convert that engine.  Even with LEDs not sure the 3 amp charging system can keep the battery charged.  It would be possible to put a diode on the lighting circuit of your current stator and runs your lights that way.

[ebinmaine 67,502]

58 minutes ago, Bill D said:

.  It would be possible to put a diode on the lighting circuit of your current stator and runs your lights that way.

How would I go about getting the correct diode(s)??

 

 

[Handy Don 12,232]

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

How would I go about getting the correct diode(s)??

 

 

A diode bridge will do it. They are inexpensive and convert AC (the blue circle with the wave form in it) to DC. (This is one kind of rectifier--there are others.)

 

Specs are for:

- PIV or Peak Inverse Voltage meaning how strong a pressure must the diode resist when NOT letting current through. For this situation, 50 will suffice but more won’t hurt.

- Amperage. For this application, probably 5 would be adequate but 10 or more doesn’t hurt

 

Here are five for $8 on the jungle site that are more than adequate! Here are another five in different packaging. (You only need one, but you can share with your friends!)

The four leads coming out correspond to the two connections for AC input and two connections for DC output. They will be neatly labeled on the device.

 

the important point to remember is that the voltage and current are not regulated--if the stator delivers 40 VAC at 2 amps, you’ll get 40 VDC at 2 amps (with a tiny bit of loss dissipated as heat🙂)

 

If you happen to have an electronics supply place, like a Radio Shack or the now-defunct Lafayette Radio on your route, they will have something like these.

 

By the way, I have the same setup on the 12.5 hp vertical B&S on my Snapper. Only the charging wire is used there -- it has no accessories needing AC power!

Edited October 30, 2023 by Handy Don

[ebinmaine 67,502]

@Handy Don

 

The pieces you linked to above both have a true AC input. 

The Briggs engine has only one wire per circuit.  

 

Am I thinking correctly that I could attach that one wire to either AC pin and be successful in producing DC?

 

Alternatively... Could I do the same with a stock Wheelhorse Voltage Regulator?

 

[Pullstart 62,882]

On 10/29/2023 at 4:56 PM, ebinmaine said:

It's come unglued (like me).

 

[Handy Don 12,232]

18 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

@Handy Don

 

The pieces you linked to above both have a true AC input. 

The Briggs engine has only one wire per circuit.  

 

Am I thinking correctly that I could attach that one wire to either AC pin and be successful in producing DC?

 

Alternatively... Could I do the same with a stock Wheelhorse Voltage Regulator?

 

Aha! Apologies for not making that clearer. Both of the B&S stators’ "other ends" are grounded.

The other AC connection is GROUND and so is the minus or ‘-‘ DC connection.

[ebinmaine 67,502]

This is just for future reference notes for me:

 

 

 

 

 

[Lee1977 6,659]

There is a wiring diagram for the Gt-1848.

Three wires off the engine, Two together - Charging system to rectifier on switch white wire. Llights to light switch green wire. 

Blue wire Magneto shut down  to Magneto on switch.

Red wire is battery from switch to solenoid switch.

The charging wire is DC it's. only 3 amp. The light wire is AC. 

 

Edited November 6, 2023 by Lee1977

[ebinmaine 67,502]

Notes and pics from @cleat