Help Me Find My First WH!

[Rick3478 428]

2 hours ago, OldWorkHorse said:

My 314-8 had a gas clutch shock on it. I removed that and added a old school clutch spring. Alot more tention and works really great. Might wanna look into that. 

It's a gas spring, and they leak out when they get old.  I might modify that suggestion a bit and add the old style spring, but leave the worn out gas spring in place for the damping that it provides, so less tendency to be a "wheelie horse".

[Rick3478 428]

6 hours ago, Ed Kennell said:

You are correct.  The screw knob is not used to adjust the deck cutting height.  The rear wheels do determine the deck height.     Check to see if the vee notch in the front deck support is engaged in the correct rod.

 

I'd add to that, the rear wheels determine cutting height, but the knob can be used to limit how far the deck can fall.  If you have gopher holes in your yard, you don't need to scalp the grass every time one of the wheels hits a hole.  With the deck at mowing height, use the knob to take up most of the slack and you can float right over the holes.

[KVustrud 92]

Learning my way around this thing!  All making sense now....I think the clutch is working properly...I just wasn't used to the "gas spring" feeling.  I can hear it working and it sounds like it should, I'll just leave that alone for now.  Greased all the zerks I could find today as well.  Transmission and engine oil both look brand new/very clean and correct levels.

 

I'll put the new blades on when they come on Wednesday and go ahead and order new belts to have those ready when needed.

 

What's the best place to buy parts for this thing and also download parts diagrams? 

 

Ver impressed with the engineering/design of the WH....everything is so simple and well thought out.  Built like a little tank too! 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,046]

Model number and serial number off the data decal required to get the correct manuals.

[ohiofarmer 3,276]

On 10/16/2023 at 11:09 AM, KVustrud said:

I'll try to keep this as short as possible, but I LOVE old garden tractors and have had several JD's and a few others.  I have spent countless hours researching all brands as well as owning and tinkering with several models.  My backyard is pretty large, gets covered with leaves, and is on a slope.  I'm a yard guy, I reel mow my front (both Bermuda).  The only 2 types of tractors that'll cut my grass evenly due to the slope are a Simplicity and a WH due to the deck actually riding on the ground vs. hanging from the tractor like a JD GT does.  I know all about the differences in Hydros, ie Eaton 1100, 700, TuffTorq 71/72/66/46, and then the manuals.  I have decided on WH over Simplicity has the Simplicity Conquests only come with a K66 and are more "box-store" looking than the WH 300-500 series.  The older Sovereigns etc. just are not as common as well.  All this to say, this is what brought me here. 

 

I need to find a WH!  From what I've researched, all 300-500 series tractors are on the same frame, is this correct?

 

I want to find a relatively clean one (I hate rust) with 800 or less hours and would prefer a bagger to come with it.  I'd be happy with a 42-48" deck.  I found an all original 520H with bagger garage kept that is beautiful I can get for $1,200, but it's a 5 hour drive one-way and I just don't have the time right now to go get it.  Not saying I won't, but I wish there were something closer.

 

Give me your opinions and info. on the 300-500 series, hydro vs. 8 spd, etc.  **I do not want a tractor with the Eaton 700.**

 

How hard would it be to find a bagger system if I buy a tractor without one? 

 

Thanks in advance, I am in NE GA! 

 

   There is a complete deck,mule, and bagger for sale on this forum.  jayZ is the guy who has it.    I would advise you to carefully read his conditions of the sale, however..  

 

Edited October 23, 2023 by ohiofarmer

[KVustrud 92]

Pulled the deck off in preparation to put the new blades on when they come (the ones on here are DULL DULL, not worth sharpening).

 

The bracket that holds the deck height adjustment lever is bent outwards some.  I need to inspect it closer, but has anyone seen this before?  It's almost like I'd need to reinforce the deck

where the two bolts run through and mount it.

 

Outside of that, the deck looks to be in fantastic shape. 

[Ed Kennell 38,180]

1 hour ago, KVustrud said:

has anyone seen this before? 

A very common problem.     Yes, a reinforcement plate could work.   I have fixed some by drilling a 1/4" hole at each end of the slotted bracket and with a plate inside of the U channel, pulled the assembly back together.

 

BTW, did you check if the Vee notch was installed correctly.

 

 

[KVustrud 92]

7 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

A very common problem.     Yes, a reinforcement plate could work.   I have fixed some by drilling a 1/4" hole at each end of the slotted bracket and with a plate inside of the U channel, pulled the assembly back together.

Can you post a pic of this fix please?  Trying to envision it....

 

7 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

BTW, did you check if the Vee notch was installed correctly.

 

What exactly are you referring to here? 

 

[dcrage 628]

One grease point not out in the open.
 

Did you grease the steering gear at the base of the steering wheel shaft. You have to turn the wheels all the way to the left(??) to see the zerk from the right(?) side of the tractor. 

(If I screwed up on my lefts and rights above hopefully someone will give a correction.)

[Brockport Bill 1,662]

my guess is that lift handle has been apart disassembled from mower shell ? -- i suggest you check the shell carefully for fracture lines -- both where the lever handle bracket has bolts that go through to underneath of shell ... as well as the two bolts in black bracket clamp to the left that hold the axle connected to the shell. Those are major stress points n shell -- I also suggest you consider replacing the red screw/bolts that hold the lift height lever bracket to shell and replace with carriage bolts that have the heads underneath the shell.... and have the nuts on the "top" outside of the shell..... that way you avoid the nuts and the bolt threads being underneath the deck on the bottom where the nuts and threads will be damaged and corroded. That problem will be avoided by having the carriage bolt heads "flush" underneath coming up to the top outside of the bracket which is the way the black bracket bolts and nuts were installed. Good luck, Bill

[Ed Kennell 38,180]

22 hours ago, KVustrud said:

Can you post a pic of this fix please?  Trying to envision it....

 

 

I no longer have the decks, but here is the idea.  A bar and two bolts to hold the assembly together.       The bar would have to be longer of course.

 

In an earlier post you said the front of the deck elevation was not changing when you adjust the rear height gage wheels.   I asked you to check if the notch on the front support bar was engaged properly.      This is the notched bar that must be hooked on the rear rod on the mid attach-a-matic .    The deck will not lift properly if this is not assembled properly.

[KVustrud 92]

16 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

I no longer have the decks, but here is the idea.  A bar and two bolts to hold the assembly together.       The bar would have to be longer of course.

 

In an earlier post you said the front of the deck elevation was not changing when you adjust the rear height gage wheels.   I asked you to check if the notch on the front support bar was engaged properly.      This is the notched bar that must be hooked on the rear rod on the mid attach-a-matic .    The deck will not lift properly if this is not assembled properly.

 

 

Got it, thank you for the images!  I figured out the front of the deck leveling, the screw adjustment was all the way up on the knob. 

[KVustrud 92]

19 hours ago, Brockport Bill said:

my guess is that lift handle has been apart disassembled from mower shell ? -- i suggest you check the shell carefully for fracture lines -- both where the lever handle bracket has bolts that go through to underneath of shell ... as well as the two bolts in black bracket clamp to the left that hold the axle connected to the shell. Those are major stress points n shell -- I also suggest you consider replacing the red screw/bolts that hold the lift height lever bracket to shell and replace with carriage bolts that have the heads underneath the shell.... and have the nuts on the "top" outside of the shell..... that way you avoid the nuts and the bolt threads being underneath the deck on the bottom where the nuts and threads will be damaged and corroded. That problem will be avoided by having the carriage bolt heads "flush" underneath coming up to the top outside of the bracket which is the way the black bracket bolts and nuts were installed. Good luck, Bill

Done! And you were right, old bolts and nuts were so rough I had to cut them out! Got a good bit done tonight!