k341s Problems runing

[wheelhorsejoe 4]

Hi, I have a problem that I thought I addressed today but it did not fix my problem. I have a k341s in a W/H 416-8 it is a designated winter machine with a snowblower Last year while cleaning snow it began to run really rough and shut down I let it sit and it started up no problem as i continued to blow snow it did it again. I put it away and decide to fix it or at lease try. Today i replaced the carb-fuel lines-filter-adjusted the valves 018 exhaust-009 intake. new gas-cleaned tank. It started right up and I let it warm up, it sounded good when I accelerated the throttle and released the clutch it did the same thing. So my question is any ideas what it could be? thanks Joe

[squonk 41,072]

Replace the condenser first. Easy to change out. 

[953 nut 55,194]

As mike said, buy a new condenser and be sure to get the correct one and mount it with the wire pointing down. If the wire is pointing up some of the snow you are blowing will land on the condenser, melt and compromise the operation of your ignition system.

The Kohler 230722 Condenser fits all battery ignition single cylinder and twin cylinder from the K-90 to the K-582.  The 235786 condensers are for the magneto equipped Kohler engines only K-161 to K-301

The unit of measure for a condenser is the Farad. Many electronic components like radios and TVs use capacitors that are in the microfarad range (ten to the minus six power Farads) and our small engines use a condenser that is in the nanofarad range (ten to the minus ninth power Farads) which is based on the voltage range they work in. A magneto ignition system uses a 100 to 250 nF condenser and a battery ignition system uses a 200 to 500 nF condenser. A good multi-meter will have a capacitor testing function.

Armed with this information you can walk into your auto parts store and get a very confused look on the face of the person on the other side of the counter. The capacitance is not listed on the package and probably not in any of the on-line data they have for the condensers they stock. You just have to go by the application chart and be sure that the condenser you are buying is for the type ignition system your engine has, not just the horsepower or engine size.

If an engine idles well, but runs erratically when revved up, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire facing downward so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it. With water inside the condenser, this will also allow it to idle well, but cause it to run erratically when revved up.

What is a farad (F)? A farad (F) is the standard unit of capacitance (C) in the International System of Units (SI). It indicates the ability of a substance to hold an electric charge. The value of most electrical capacitors is expressed in farads, microfarads (µF) or nanofarads (nF)

[wheelhorsejoe 4]

1 hour ago, squonk said:

Replace the condenser first. Easy to change out. 

thank you 

[wheelhorsejoe 4]

1 hour ago, 953 nut said:

As mike said, buy a new condenser and be sure to get the correct one and mount it with the wire pointing down. If the wire is pointing up some of the snow you are blowing will land on the condenser, melt and compromise the operation of your ignition system.

The Kohler 230722 Condenser fits all battery ignition single cylinder and twin cylinder from the K-90 to the K-582.  The 235786 condensers are for the magneto equipped Kohler engines only K-161 to K-301

The unit of measure for a condenser is the Farad. Many electronic components like radios and TVs use capacitors that are in the microfarad range (ten to the minus six power Farads) and our small engines use a condenser that is in the nanofarad range (ten to the minus ninth power Farads) which is based on the voltage range they work in. A magneto ignition system uses a 100 to 250 nF condenser and a battery ignition system uses a 200 to 500 nF condenser. A good multi-meter will have a capacitor testing function.

Armed with this information you can walk into your auto parts store and get a very confused look on the face of the person on the other side of the counter. The capacitance is not listed on the package and probably not in any of the on-line data they have for the condensers they stock. You just have to go by the application chart and be sure that the condenser you are buying is for the type ignition system your engine has, not just the horsepower or engine size.

If an engine idles well, but runs erratically when revved up, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire facing downward so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it. With water inside the condenser, this will also allow it to idle well, but cause it to run erratically when revved up.

What is a farad (F)? A farad (F) is the standard unit of capacitance (C) in the International System of Units (SI). It indicates the ability of a substance to hold an electric charge. The value of most electrical capacitors is expressed in farads, microfarads (µF) or nanofarads (nF)

 

1 hour ago, 953 nut said:

As mike said, buy a new condenser and be sure to get the correct one and mount it with the wire pointing down. If the wire is pointing up some of the snow you are blowing will land on the condenser, melt and compromise the operation of your ignition system.

The Kohler 230722 Condenser fits all battery ignition single cylinder and twin cylinder from the K-90 to the K-582.  The 235786 condensers are for the magneto equipped Kohler engines only K-161 to K-301

The unit of measure for a condenser is the Farad. Many electronic components like radios and TVs use capacitors that are in the microfarad range (ten to the minus six power Farads) and our small engines use a condenser that is in the nanofarad range (ten to the minus ninth power Farads) which is based on the voltage range they work in. A magneto ignition system uses a 100 to 250 nF condenser and a battery ignition system uses a 200 to 500 nF condenser. A good multi-meter will have a capacitor testing function.

Armed with this information you can walk into your auto parts store and get a very confused look on the face of the person on the other side of the counter. The capacitance is not listed on the package and probably not in any of the on-line data they have for the condensers they stock. You just have to go by the application chart and be sure that the condenser you are buying is for the type ignition system your engine has, not just the horsepower or engine size.

If an engine idles well, but runs erratically when revved up, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire facing downward so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it. With water inside the condenser, this will also allow it to idle well, but cause it to run erratically when revved up.

What is a farad (F)? A farad (F) is the standard unit of capacitance (C) in the International System of Units (SI). It indicates the ability of a substance to hold an electric charge. The value of most electrical capacitors is expressed in farads, microfarads (µF) or nanofarads (nF)

 

1 hour ago, 953 nut said:

As mike said, buy a new condenser and be sure to get the correct one and mount it with the wire pointing down. If the wire is pointing up some of the snow you are blowing will land on the condenser, melt and compromise the operation of your ignition system.

The Kohler 230722 Condenser fits all battery ignition single cylinder and twin cylinder from the K-90 to the K-582.  The 235786 condensers are for the magneto equipped Kohler engines only K-161 to K-301

The unit of measure for a condenser is the Farad. Many electronic components like radios and TVs use capacitors that are in the microfarad range (ten to the minus six power Farads) and our small engines use a condenser that is in the nanofarad range (ten to the minus ninth power Farads) which is based on the voltage range they work in. A magneto ignition system uses a 100 to 250 nF condenser and a battery ignition system uses a 200 to 500 nF condenser. A good multi-meter will have a capacitor testing function.

Armed with this information you can walk into your auto parts store and get a very confused look on the face of the person on the other side of the counter. The capacitance is not listed on the package and probably not in any of the on-line data they have for the condensers they stock. You just have to go by the application chart and be sure that the condenser you are buying is for the type ignition system your engine has, not just the horsepower or engine size.

If an engine idles well, but runs erratically when revved up, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire facing downward so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it. With water inside the condenser, this will also allow it to idle well, but cause it to run erratically when revved up.

What is a farad (F)? A farad (F) is the standard unit of capacitance (C) in the International System of Units (SI). It indicates the ability of a substance to hold an electric charge. The value of most electrical capacitors is expressed in farads, microfarads (µF) or nanofarads (nF)

 

[wheelhorsejoe 4]

9 minutes ago, wheelhorsejoe said:

 

Thank You

 

 

[Pullstart 62,838]

Maybe it was mentioned… you cleaned fuel stuff and replaced fuel stuff.  Did you try cracking the fuel cap?  

[wheelhorsejoe 4]

23 hours ago, wheelhorsejoe said:

Hi, I have a problem that I thought I addressed today but it did not fix my problem. I have a k341s in a W/H 416-8 it is a designated winter machine with a snowblower Last year while cleaning snow it began to run really rough and shut down I let it sit and it started up no problem as i continued to blow snow it did it again. I put it away and decide to fix it or at lease try. Today i replaced the carb-fuel lines-filter-adjusted the valves 018 exhaust-009 intake. new gas-cleaned tank. It started right up and I let it warm up, it sounded good when I accelerated the throttle and released the clutch it did the same thing. So my question is any ideas what it could be? thanks Joe

 

9 hours ago, Pullstart said:

Maybe it was mentioned… you cleaned fuel stuff and replaced fuel stuff.  Did you try cracking the fuel cap?  

Yes  thanks