Jump to content
dclarke

702 project

Recommended Posts

 
JoeM

Agree that white paint got to go. 

Maybe a light sandblast job and aging accelerator applied? Might need to practice on a another to find the best route. IDK

  • Like 1
  • Confused 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WHX??

All  I can say is... sawwweeet Denny... :handgestures-thumbupright: 

The rims not at all bothersome but the patina other than the tank to die for!

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
dclarke
2 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

All  I can say is... sawwweeet Denny... :handgestures-thumbupright: 

The rims not at all bothersome but the patina other than the tank to die for!

I’ve had some luck removing that new paint on the first rim using paint remover but not letting it sit very long before washing it off then repeating the procedure. Gonna do the back side of the rim tomorrow. 

IMG_8102.jpeg

IMG_8101.jpeg

IMG_8100.jpeg

  • Like 6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
wallfish
7 minutes ago, dclarke said:

I’ve had some luck removing that new paint on the first rim using paint remover but not letting it sit very long before washing it off then repeating the procedure. Gonna do the back side of the rim tomorrow. 

Looks pretty good

The citrus based paint remover works pretty good for that too and especially good the more recent the paint was put on. It's not strong but seems to attack newer paint better than the older paint whereas some of that solvent based stuff will eat through both. If you tried to strip all the original paint with citrus stuff you would be frustrated.

810OJgm0gDL._AC_SL1500_.jpg.5f012f59d238fb2951f3a91eac958ff4.jpg

  • Like 4
  • Excellent 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
dclarke
4 minutes ago, wallfish said:

Looks pretty good

The citrus based paint remover works pretty good for that too and especially good the more recent the paint was put on. It's not strong but seems to attack newer paint better than the older paint whereas some of that solvent based stuff will eat through both. If you tried to strip all the original paint with citrus stuff you would be frustrated.

810OJgm0gDL._AC_SL1500_.jpg.5f012f59d238fb2951f3a91eac958ff4.jpg

Thanks, John. That’s probably a better option than what I’m using. I do have a nice set of patina rims available to me if this doesn’t work so just trying what I have on hand. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
wallfish
8 minutes ago, dclarke said:

so just trying what I have on hand. 

Absolutely!

Just throwing it out there because I had pretty good luck using it. Never did wheels but did a whole tractor that was brush painted

I still search for those yellowish rust patina 6-12 rims for my projects. They turned a particular color for some reason

Edited by wallfish
  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WHX??

I've seen that product in stores 'Fish but never tried it. Works ok on engine blocks ? 

Looks like those are original town & country's Denny. I'd like to see you peel them off the rims and blast but worried tires may not make the trip? 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ri702bill

Good score - and has a complete HY-2 unit.

I have had great success using a pneumatic needle scaler on a set of rims that were previously painted twice.

It takes a bit of patience to get the correct angle and pressure found out, but once you do, it moves right along. Use hearing protection - it is loud............

It leaves a finish somewhat similar to sanding with 80 grit paper - perfect for etching primer.........

Edited by ri702bill
  • Like 1
  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
dclarke
4 hours ago, ri702bill said:

Good score - and has a complete HY-2 unit.

I have had great success using a pneumatic needle scaler on a set of rims that were previously painted twice.

It takes a bit of patience to get the correct angle and pressure found out, but once you do, it moves right along. Use hearing protection - it is loud............

It leaves a finish somewhat similar to sanding with 80 grit paper - perfect for etching primer.........

Thanks, Bill. I have used one of those and they do a great job.  On this project i'm wanting to remove the new bright white paint and leave as much of the original paint and patina as I can.  

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine

Nice find here Den. 

I do like a nice new set of rims and new seat on an older look but the bright white - not a fan. 

 

I'll throw in another vote for the citrus. 

We've used it too. 

It's not very aggressive especially in the first few minutes. 

Might be just the trick you need. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ri702bill
11 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

not very aggressive especially in the first few minutes. 

Knew a girl like that in the old neighborhood...........:lol:

  • Haha 6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WHX??
6 hours ago, ri702bill said:

- and has a complete HY-2 unit.

Wow I missed that Bill... really nice score then Denny. :handgestures-thumbupright::handgestures-thumbupright: keep us posted on your efforts. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Pullstart

Awesome little project Denny!  Sweeet!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
peter lena

@dclarke  agree with @wallfish  on the paint stripper , would personally retain that era look , like a lubrication soak / rub down . another thing , that Smokey start , have recovered a number of  neglected engines .  use RISLONE ZINC , to my initial recovery / run in time , also use a heavily treated separate gallon of fuel , drop carb bowl , no screaming engine , just a fast idle , while you are checking things out . hot flush oil change , refill . ROTELLA 30 WT ,  zinc levels on bottle .  zinc really cleans out the ring glands , rest of engine too. like Lucas , climbing gear oil , think that would look period correct in an oil stain finish , also put  a TYE WRAP  just above your new shift boot , on shifter rod ,  lubricate inside of boot for easy sliding , without tearing  boot . there is more , but  just some ideas , that I have many trouble free hours on , not a purest , oil stain , pete

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
dclarke
10 hours ago, peter lena said:

@dclarke  agree with @wallfish  on the paint stripper , would personally retain that era look , like a lubrication soak / rub down . another thing , that Smokey start , have recovered a number of  neglected engines .  use RISLONE ZINC , to my initial recovery / run in time , also use a heavily treated separate gallon of fuel , drop carb bowl , no screaming engine , just a fast idle , while you are checking things out . hot flush oil change , refill . ROTELLA 30 WT ,  zinc levels on bottle .  zinc really cleans out the ring glands , rest of engine too. like Lucas , climbing gear oil , think that would look period correct in an oil stain finish , also put  a TYE WRAP  just above your new shift boot , on shifter rod ,  lubricate inside of boot for easy sliding , without tearing  boot . there is more , but  just some ideas , that I have many trouble free hours on , not a purest , oil stain , pete

Thanks, Pete. I’ve followed your advice in the past and now use Lucas grease. I’ll follow this advice on the zinc whenI get to that point and see what happens…. I scrubbed this belt guard with an SOS pad then lightly wet sanded it with 400, then wiped it down with WD-40. I’m tempted to do the rest of the tractor like that….. I found there’s no original paint under the bright white on these front rims so I’m gonna use 4 original paint rims from another tractor instead. 

IMG_8122.jpeg

IMG_8115.jpeg

IMG_8110.png

Edited by dclarke
  • Like 3
  • Excellent 2
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
peter lena

@dclarke  glad you are trying / experimenting  on your unit , like the oiled look on older units , just seams to fit ,  been road testing that Lucas Green h/d  , now for years , on common bearing failures , totally eliminates them , my mower deck PTO  mule drive belt , spins the deck up by hand , thats what you want . always trying an improvement in a failure area , stay at it , pete  

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine
12 minutes ago, dclarke said:

rims

Just for future reference Denny.. The Rust-Oleum 2X Navajo White is a dead match for a mid 60s Wheelhorse rim. 

We've had a few with original rotted tires that had good paint inside. 

Dropped a bit of that paint and actually lost sight of it. 

 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
dclarke

Thanks, Eric!.. For some reason I don’t want to paint the rims on this project, I’d like to keep it looking as original as possible but still clean it up some. I think I’m gonna go with these rims that are original paint and some rust, just what I’m looking for. 

IMG_8110.png

  • Like 4
  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
953 nut
16 hours ago, JoeM said:

aging accelerator applied?

I have used accelerator for paint and cyanoacrylate (super glue) drying time but have never heard about aging accelerator  to make new paint look old. I have used steel wool and vinegar to make wood aging solution, works very well and color can be adjusted by dilution or time the steel wool has been soaked in the vinegar. or the kind of vinegar used.

Can you please post a link for the aging accelerator for paint?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
kpinnc

Beautiful original tractor! :thumbs:

 

Amazing that those tires are over 60 years old and still look that good. :rolleyes: 

 

They sure don't make anything like they used to! 

  • Like 2
  • Sad 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 
JoeM
11 hours ago, 953 nut said:

Can you please post a link for the aging accelerator for paint?

Nothing canned off the shelf but this is something crafters use to antique metal. 

Pour two cups of hydrogen peroxide, four tablespoons of white vinegar, and one-and-a-half teaspoons of table salt into a plastic spray bottle. Vigorously swirl the bottle to mix the contents. Once the salt has dissolved, spray the solution over the object to coat it partially or completely, depending on the desired effect. The peroxide should begin to bubble on contact with the metal, and rust will start forming immediately. Let the object air-dry in the sun for another five minutes or longer, depending on the size of the object.

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
dclarke

The belt stop tab was missing on the tranny belt guard so I added one to the bottom side and made a guide that bolts to the engine for the top side. Not sure how long this tab has been missing, I’m hoping the guy didn’t grind the gears. I’ll find out when I open the tranny…. The steering wheel put up a struggle but it finally came off in one piece. 

IMG_8142.jpeg

IMG_8139.jpeg

IMG_8140.jpeg

IMG_8141.jpeg

  • Like 4
  • Excellent 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WHX??

Wow where did you find those Generals. I looked for years for those for my Amigo. They were OEM on it. 

20190624_201913.jpg

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...