Steering column cut/re-weld advice needed

[Damien Walker 246]

On 10/7/2023 at 7:12 PM, davem1111 said:

After buying some relatively expensive roll pin punches and cobalt & carbide drill bits, hammering and drilling for what seems like hours but may have been only a total of 30 minutes, it still feels like time to give up on that approach. I think I've managed to remove all the roll pin that's not inside the shaft part itself, but it still won't budge. I don't have access to a press.  So, I guess I'm looking at cutting the column and re-welding it.

 

Where is the best place to cut? a few inches above the gear at the bottom?  I was advised that it's best to cut on an angle, to make the re-fit easier. I'm also thinking I should grind it a little flat on 2 sides and weld a bit of flat steel on after re-joining it, to reinforce it.  I searched the forum and found a couple references for example here:  

 

 

I may try a bit more to get it to move but I'm really getting weary of that approach.  Would love to hear anything regarding cutting/re-welding. Thanks!

 

 

I feel your pain!

 

The key to roll pin removal in my experience is to use the correct diameter punch, a large lump hammer and most importantly, the steering wheel boss needs to be solidly supported. It is nearly impossible to remove the pin with the tractor assembled unless you can provide robust lateral support to withstand the hammer blows, so it's MUCH easier with the column and dashboard removed. Column horizontal with the boss supported in a shaped wooden block helps greatly.

 

Unfortunately with the two C series wheels that I have removed, the wheels had seized on the shaft and with the roll pin removed, it was impossible to apply sufficient torque to break the grip. The 518H 'modern style' wheels have aluminium bosses (if I recall correctly) and in my case, were loose/sloppy on the columns....so just fell off once the pins were out.

 

The C series boss is steel and the smallest amount of rust is sufficient to cause the seizure. Luckily, the centre cap can be levered out with a smallish screwdriver, but it is likely you will cause some 'bruising' doing this. Once the cap is off, you might have to remove some excess plastic (non-structural)  that usually covers the hole in the boss. Drill that through and you have access to the end of the column. I have a 20t press but I didn't come close to using it's full capacity. The wheel boss needs to be fully supported on a flat surface (with a hole for the column to extend through) and the column should then easily press out. I tried using a three leg puller (better than a two leg puller on a three spoke wheel!) Instead of the press, but it damaged the rear of the wheel boss. I imagine a large steel washer might provide adequate support....but I used my press!

 

I also imagine that if you properly support the wheel boss, you could knock the column out with a hammer and a drift.

 

If you can't get to the end of the column to press it out then you might be able to use a slide hammer, again if you properly support the boss.

 

Finally, I have successfully removed the steering gear from the bottom of the column by grinding the weld off, so that method of dismantling should be possible too.

[davem1111 2,030]

2 hours ago, Damien Walker said:

 

I feel your pain!

 

 

No more pain. My 4-pack of Hillman spacers showed up, so I cut the bloody thing.  After a little cleanup, the spacer fits perfectly, so I can put it back together nicely.

 

I do appreciate all the ideas though... I have a feeling this isn't the last steering wheel I will wrestle with. 

 

[edit to add:]   Oh, and since I think I've drilled out at least most of the roll pin, I won't be surprised after I get this back together and try to drive it, that the steering wheel just pops off. 

Edited October 13, 2023 by davem1111

[Damien Walker 246]

 

[edit to add:]   Oh, and since I think I've drilled out at least most of the roll pin, I won't be surprised after I get this back together and try to drive it, that the steering wheel just pops off. 

 

Absolutely, it's one of the approved removal techniques! It will also come loose at the most inopportune moment, such as right at the point you are hurtling towards the midden! You could fit a (1/4"?) bolt just to provide limited emergency control or just fit another roll pin. They are not that difficult to remove, once you've got the knack (famous last words!). I think the main issue is the number of years the wheel has been in place. Removal, clean up and application of copper slip grease is probably a good idea.