New 1045.

[BairleaFarm 340]

Finally I'm back to owning a Wheel Horse.    A 1045 I think we figured from the other post.    I guess it's mostly original.      Trans shifts, engine, and gen turn over.     Hydro lever doesn't appear to move nor does the shaft spin.    I spent about 2.4 seconds as it was starting to rain.      Any info or insight you have on this would be appreciated.  I've never owned this model.   

 

 

[BairleaFarm 340]

I'd like to find the 2 belt shields but I assume I'll have to buy them from one of you guys.  Lol

[ebinmaine 67,523]

Good find !!

 

Trina has one here if ya need measurements for something.  

@Rob J.

[BairleaFarm 340]

20 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Good find !!

As far as the rear end goes.   I assume it's dry and stuff isn't sliding.    Sometimes it rolls sometimes its locked up.  Sometimes the input pulley does full rotations by hand.    Sometimes it feels like it's slipping.   🤔 

[ebinmaine 67,523]

2 minutes ago, BairleaFarm said:

As far as the rear end goes.   I assume it's dry and stuff isn't sliding.    Sometimes it rolls sometimes its locked up.  Sometimes the input pulley does full rotations by hand.    Sometimes it feels like it's slipping.   🤔 

Best bet is to tear it apart.  

Standard issue 3 speed transmission.  

Nice easy rebuild.   

 

[Pullstart 62,902]

Congrats!  No go on the round hoods?  You have more self control than most of us!

[BairleaFarm 340]

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

 Nice easy rebuild.   

Lol except for the weeks it would take to get the rusted solid hitch / rear pin out.      I think some fluid would help tremendously.

 

1 hour ago, Pullstart said:

Congrats!  No go on the round hoods?  You have more self control than most of us!

 

We had agreed on a price to get this and the 701 but the rear was rusted solid.     The other ones were rough like cracked hoods missing engine parts fenders damaged seats gone etc.   I work with a limited budget so have to at least have a rolling project.    

 

Truth be told I mat sell this.    I got this to modify but knowing it's somewhat rare I think it should go to someone who wants to keep it original.      I'm going to try to get it running and driving then go from there.  

[ebinmaine 67,523]

3 minutes ago, BairleaFarm said:

Lol except for the weeks it would take to get the rusted solid hitch / rear pin out.      I think some fluid would help

Fluid. Heat. Repeat.  

 

[953 nut 55,258]

                                  This manual should help.                   

 

[Pullstart 62,902]

4 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Fluid. Heat. Repeat.  

 

and remember it took years to perfect being rusted so well!  Don’t expect miracles in minutes.  Some folks have had luck drilling a small hole through the casting on either half of the transmission into the pin, then filling those holes with penetrating fluid.  I like to twist the pin (pipe wrench), not hammer the pin (mushrooming it larger).

[Rob J. 1,942]

48 minutes ago, BairleaFarm said:

Lol except for the weeks it would take to get the rusted solid hitch / rear pin out.      I think some fluid would help tremendously.

 

 

We had agreed on a price to get this and the 701 but the rear was rusted solid.     The other ones were rough like cracked hoods missing engine parts fenders damaged seats gone etc.   I work with a limited budget so have to at least have a rolling project.    

 

Truth be told I mat sell this.    I got this to modify but knowing it's somewhat rare I think it should go to someone who wants to keep it original.      I'm going to try to get it running and driving then go from there.  

Try using a ball joint press for the hitch pin. Thank me later. Nice find. I know a few things about these guys, ask any questions. 
 

personally I’d strip it down mechanically and rebuild tranny and motor and slap it back together along with the right parts and call it good. 

[Rob J. 1,942]

3 hours ago, BairleaFarm said:

I'd like to find the 2 belt shields but I assume I'll have to buy them from one of you guys.  Lol

The S/G guard you can find fairly easy. However the drive belt guard is a different story. An original one anyways. I’m not sure how many other models would be an exact fit but pretty sure a 1055 belt guard is same. 

[Rob J. 1,942]

That’s almost certainly an all original survivor. Definitely worth a little more than your average horse. Only model to have that rectangle hood decal and the serial decal on left tower side, that I’m aware of. 

[BairleaFarm 340]

10 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Fluid. Heat. Repeat.  

 

 Very true.  Slow and steady.

 

10 hours ago, 953 nut said:

      This manual should help.                   

 

Thank you much.

 

10 hours ago, Pullstart said:

 not hammer the pin (mushrooming it larger).

Definitely true.   Mushrooming the bin makes life harder. 

 

9 hours ago, Rob J. said:

I’d strip it down mechanically and rebuild tranny and motor and slap it back together along with the right parts and call it good. 

I think the rear is just dry and some oil will fix it.   I have a feeling engine is good.    This weekend will tell the tale.

 

 

 

9 hours ago, Rob J. said:

That’s almost certainly an all original survivor. Definitely worth a little more than your average horse.

From what i can tell I would agree.   With that being said this will NOT be the wheel horse i modify for my dump bed project.  If all goes well I will be getting this gal moving and driving this weekend.     

 

Not sure why this was moved to a trans section when its just a post about a new WH purchase but ill go with it lol.

[953 nut 55,258]

12 hours ago, Pullstart said:

it took years to perfect being rusted so well!  Don’t expect miracles in minutes.

[BairleaFarm 340]

I thought these rears had a fill port on top for fluid.     It's be a bit since I've messed with them but since this doesn't have a fill port do you fill through the drain?

[ebinmaine 67,523]

You still fill through the top but it's a little time consuming.  

You can remove the shifter or one of the seat mount bolts to create a fill port.  

Pretty much any gear oil between 80w and 140w will do. 

Capacity is 1.5 qts on a 3 or 4 speed but we drop 2 in like we would on a 6 or 8 speed.  

 

 

[squonk 41,120]

I can see the square plug fill port in your picture. Right below the webbing on the axle on the left side

[BairleaFarm 340]

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

 

You can remove the shifter or one of the seat mount bolts to create a fill port. 

 

That would be horribly slow 🐌 

 

1 hour ago, squonk said:

Right below the webbing on the axle on the left side

 

Surely a plag that low to the bottom isn't a fill.   🤔 

[squonk 41,120]

1 minute ago, BairleaFarm said:

 

That would be horribly slow 🐌 

 

 

Surely a plag that low to the bottom isn't a fill.   🤔 

Yes it's the fill. You fill it there until it runs out

[BairleaFarm 340]

Id almost run them if the fenders fit.     Hehe.   Anyways these are all I had laying around.       I think I may fill with diesel all the way.   Rock back and forth then drain.    Then repeat a couple times.     Try to flush some of the crud.