Sundstrand transmission question

[horseman with no horse 26]

I noticed a lot of slop in the arm that links the idler pulley to the brake lever on my 1076 sundstrand transmission Should I just slap a tight spring on it? Or should I replace the worn out arm first? I’ll attach a video demonstrating this “slop”.

[horseman with no horse 26]

[horseman with no horse 26]

Is this slop normal?

[pfrederi 17,912]

You have a groove worn in the bottom of the pin (Blue Arrow) happens with age....  Weld it and reshape or JB weld and reshape it

[Achto 27,829]

33 minutes ago, horseman with no horse said:

Is this slop normal?

 

What @pfrederi posted is definitely an issue. The hole in the bar that links the lever to the pulley is supposed to be slotted like it is. Causing some slop in the in the parking brake handle.

[daveoman1966 3,762]

On my Bronco 14...  had the same 'rattle' issue.  Fix was to put this spring on the engagement lever.  

[horseman with no horse 26]

17 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

You have a groove worn in the bottom of the pin (Blue Arrow) happens with age....  Weld it and reshape or JB weld and reshape it

Alright so if I weld the cut and grind it smooth, slap a nice spring on it I should be good?

[horseman with no horse 26]

1 hour ago, Achto said:

 

What @pfrederi posted is definitely an issue. The hole in the bar that links the lever to the pulley is supposed to be slotted like it is. Causing some slop in the in the parking brake handle.

Is it possible the slop is a little excessive? If I end up having to make a trip to the shop tomorrow to weld the cut it would be good to know if I need to use the welder to take up some of the excess space in the slot. If it’s normal/fine then I will just leave it alone and weld/reshape the cut.

[horseman with no horse 26]

1 hour ago, daveoman1966 said:

On my Bronco 14...  had the same 'rattle' issue.  Fix was to put this spring on the engagement lever.  

Someone did this already with a bungee and it got so bad all it does is eat belts. This is a great simple fix for the style of break leaver that is by the top on the instruction plate, like yours on the bronco or the gt 14. But my lever is by the ground near the axle so I cant really mount a secondary spring like this.

[Achto 27,829]

The slot in the arm may be a little excessive but don't look that bad to me. You are missing a spring. There should be a spring on the end of the parking brake lever. This is a newer model but you can see the spring hooked to the barking brake lever.

[horseman with no horse 26]

I took off the spring as it was wore and needs replaced.

[horseman with no horse 26]

Alright I took the arm off and noticed there was a second groove in a different spot. I’ll attach pictures of the groove i noticed and the first one. Sadly the only local shop refused to make me pay less than 40 dollars to weld it round, meaning I would still have to prep it for the weld, and sand it round again myself after welding despite paying that much. Should I try and find a good used arm? Should I still try to get this one fixed? I want it done right and I want it to last so JB weld is kinda off the table.

[pfrederi 17,912]

Most used ones are going to have some wear also.   JB weld has lasted for a good time on some of mine.  easy enough to do over when it does wear out...

[gt14rider 799]

Ground off pins, weld new on.

Edited September 19, 2023 by gt14rider
More pics

[horseman with no horse 26]

Did you just use round stock for the shafts? Also how did you go about getting the cotter pin hole drilled? Did you end up putting a replaceable brass sleeve on one on the smaller shaft nubs?

[horseman with no horse 26]

This is what I mean by the sleeve. 

[horseman with no horse 26]

Also my shaft doesn’t have the second c clip channel or a bushing it just has a washer and the one clip near the opposite side of the Shaft. Sorry about crappy arrows, you might need to look at it sideways.

[gt14rider 799]

Yes I used round stock, drilled hole before I cut it. The bushing was an after thought, should wear bushing not pin. It spins on pin

[kpinnc 12,638]

Or,

 

Remove the clackity thing and simply add a good spring onto the pulley swingarm to hold tension on the belt. 

 

A simple test can determine if you brake paw is still functioning. Pull the handle up (which sets the brake), open the tow valve, and try to push the tractor. If it won't move, your brake paw still engages. If it rolls freely, the brake paw is worn beyond the limits of the T handle apparatus anyway. Removing it won't be removing any functionality.

 

 

[horseman with no horse 26]

Alright, I’m gonna get a baseline with the fan squonk hooked me up with and t arm gone for now with a spring, I’m sure it will be more accurate/realistic now the belt doesn’t slip and the pump doesn’t cook. I have a 90-2046 getting shipped from another red square member, that I hope just bolts on.