the jeep driver 29 #1 Posted September 17, 2023 How much metal can I take off of these blades before they are no longer serviceable? They are about two inches wide, and have about 1/4" before I would get into the curve of the mulching blade. I have a deck with three 106108B stamped blades. If I do need to replace them soon, what do you recommend? Not many options come up in an internet search. I see this; "Toro Replacement Blade - 14 1/2" x 2" - Replaces 106108," but my 106108B blades are only 14 1/8" long... ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,307 #2 Posted September 17, 2023 You measure mower blades at an angle from cutting tip to cutting tip. You should be able to find what you need at farm supply stores. You can get some more use out of the one shown so long as it still has little thinning and you don’t get uncut grass between the blades. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,181 #3 Posted September 17, 2023 22 minutes ago, lynnmor said: You measure mower blades at an angle from cutting tip to cutting tip. You should be able to find what you need at farm supply stores. You can get some more use out of the one shown so long as it still has little thinning and you don’t get uncut grass between the blades. The effective tip to tip length becomes shorter and decreases the overlap as the blades are ground back. The shorter blades may start to leave an uncut strip first noticeable when turning. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
the jeep driver 29 #4 Posted September 17, 2023 Thanks much you two! I did not realize that the blades were getting shorter as I sharpened, but now that I look it, makes sense, obviously so! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,232 #5 Posted September 18, 2023 I use a fine grit on a bench belt sander to sharpen the blades making very sure not to heat the blade edge (I rotate across the four edges of my two blades every few seconds of sharpening and dip into a pail of cold water.. In my experience, i take off less metal and my blades last longer. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 6,662 #6 Posted September 19, 2023 (edited) This is my sharping tool Gator flap sander disk on a side grinder removes metal and doesn't get it hot. Use a light toutch as they realy remove metal. I also use it on axes ,bush axes. Edited September 19, 2023 by Lee1977 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,631 #7 Posted September 19, 2023 @Handy Don agree with the minimal metal removal , personally use a fine triangle file , I don't have any rocks or heavy IMPACT spots on my lawn , look things over on a regular deck inspection , as you probably have , seen " BLADES " that were totally shot . deck packed , with rot , don't understand how you can this is ok , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 1,922 #8 Posted September 19, 2023 I got some XHT blades online from Hartsville Hardware for my 48" decks. Great price and fast shipping. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 6,662 #9 Posted September 19, 2023 (edited) I also use XHT blades the toughest blades I have ever used. Got mine from Proparts Place, Swainboro, Ga. Edited September 19, 2023 by Lee1977 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,232 #10 Posted September 19, 2023 42 minutes ago, Lee1977 said: I also use XHT blades the toughest blades I have evr used. Got mine from Proparts Place, Swainboro, Ga. I like these but they don’t make them for the size and counter-rotation of the ‘60s RM decks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites