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Mike_eash

How can I preserve my paint job??

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Mike_eash

Hello guys

I recently restored a charger 10 my first restoration. I am done except for the wheels which I am having powder coated. I am happy with how it turned out

However I used rust oleum spray paint a decision which I am now regretting because it seems like it scratches way to easily

My next restoration will not be spray paint 

However since I can't change it now my question is there something I can do to preserve this paint job? I have heard putting certain oil on it helps preserve but I am not sure

Any input would be great!!

Thanks in advance 

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20230914_175631.jpg

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ebinmaine
5 minutes ago, Mike_eash said:

However I used rust oleum spray paint a decision which I am now regretting because it seems like it scratches way to easily

 

That'll need to set for at least 2 months before it's anywhere near fully cured. 

 

Do NOT put anything over it to preserve until AFTER that couple months... or more... has gone by.  

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Mike_eash
34 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

That'll need to set for at least 2 months before it's anywhere near fully cured. 

 

Do NOT put anything over it to preserve until AFTER that couple months... or more... has gone by.  

Thanks I knew it took a while to cure but didn't know it was quite that long

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ebinmaine
4 minutes ago, Mike_eash said:

Thanks I knew it took a while to cure but didn't know it was quite that long

Yepp. 

 

We know first hand here. 

Trina does 99% of our painting. 

We use almost exclusively Rust-Oleum 2X. 

 

Spraying small or large individual pieces and parts is a matter of convenience for us. 

It's not a huge issue for us to have scratches and character marks. 

All our tractors are workers.  

 

If we decided to restore a show only machine we'd likely change painting methods.  

 

 

 

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Mike_eash
4 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Yepp. 

 

We know first hand here. 

Trina does 99% of our painting. 

We use almost exclusively Rust-Oleum 2X. 

 

Spraying small or large individual pieces and parts is a matter of convenience for us. 

It's not a huge issue for us to have scratches and character marks. 

All our tractors are workers.  

 

If we decided to restore a show only machine we'd likely change painting methods.  

 

 

 

Mine is far from a show tractor and I plan on using it too and a few scratches is fine 

However I also don't wanna repaint it in a couple years because it's peeling or something 

How long does hold up under moderate use and stored in a garage?

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ri702bill

Remember that the "Rust Preventative " compound in Rust-oleum IS fish oil - takes a looooooooooong time to cure. Need the tractor in the fall?? Paint it in the spring... I'm talking rattle cans here - others use a witches brew of clears and hardeners......speeds things along....

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JCM
13 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

 

If we decided to restore a show only machine we'd likely change painting methods.  

 

May I ask, what method ?

 

 

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ebinmaine
30 minutes ago, Mike_eash said:

Mine is far from a show tractor and I plan on using it too and a few scratches is fine 

However I also don't wanna repaint it in a couple years because it's peeling or something 

How long does hold up under moderate use and stored in a garage?

 

If the UNDER paint surface is prepped well you'll have no issues with longevity.  I have NO peeling paint anywhere. 

 

 

My own 1974 C160 Cinnamon Horse was painted a little over 4 years ago. 

We've touched up very small spots to make it more presentable for Owl's Head show at least twice. I'm talking about like bolt heads or wee scratches.  

 

It took a good honest 3 or 4 months to get to a point where it would stop scratching easily.  

 

After 4+ years of being an indoor stored but winter working tractor  - it still looks good.  

 

 

@JCM

At some point maybe a system more like @Achto uses??

Prep everything. 

Prime everything. 

Spray everything.  

 

Use hardeners.

Maybe even a clear coat? 

 

As to brand I dunno. 

It's been 25+ years since I've sold Auto paint so I'm unfamiliar with it now.  

 

 

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ri702bill
2 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

It took a good honest 3 or 4 months to get to a point where it would stop scratching easily.  

 

And so it goes - da-da-da-dum.....(blues rift)

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JCM
5 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

And so it goes - da-da-da-dum.....(blues rift)

My favorite genre, The Blues :thumbs:

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JCM
14 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

 

 

@JCM

At some point maybe a system more like @Achto uses??

 Going big time are we ?

 

 

 

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Achto
1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

At some point maybe a system more like @Achto uses??

Prep everything. 

Prime everything. 

Spray everything.  

 

No spraying here, I apply everything with a push broom. :thumbs2::D

 

Truthfully a person can get good results with a low dollar gun like this one.

https://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-hvlp-gravity-feed-air-spray-gun-62300.html

 

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ebinmaine
7 minutes ago, Achto said:

 

No spraying here, I apply everything with a push broom. :thumbs2::D

:ROTF:

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Achto
13 hours ago, Mike_eash said:

However since I can't change it now my question is there something I can do to preserve this paint job? I have heard putting certain oil on it helps preserve but I am not sure

Any input would be great!!

 

After it has cured for at least 2 months, a good old fashion paste wax job will help preserve the paint. Wax is seldom used on todays cars as the urethane clears don't require it it preserve the shine. On older cars that were painted with a single stage, the paint required a periodic wax job to preserve the paint. 

Edited by Achto
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squonk

So I assume you didn't clear over it? It would handle the bumping and banging of reassembly if you did.

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ebinmaine
1 minute ago, squonk said:

So I assume you didn't clear over it? It would handle the bumping and banging of reassembly if you did.

 

 

We've talked about doing that here as well but never have.

 

Do you prep the paint in any particular manner? Scuff it up or leave it smooth? Anything like that?

 

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squonk
9 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

 

We've talked about doing that here as well but never have.

 

Do you prep the paint in any particular manner? Scuff it up or leave it smooth? Anything like that?

 

Put the clear right on when the last color coat is still wet

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oliver2-44

You can also put the clear on after it has died completely, 2-3 months. (I had not learned Squonks method yet)  On one I wet sanded it very fine 1000 grit, because I wanted to learn how to get a show finish. On another I lightly sanded out any runs, bugs, etc:omg:and then scuffed the  rest with a red scotch brite. I used the Rustoleum Crystal Clear.  Depending on what brand you base color coat is, test what eve brand clear you want to use on the backside of a part  where it won't show in case it causes it to krinkle 

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Achto
1 hour ago, oliver2-44 said:

then scuffed the  rest with a red scotch brite

 

Wet sanding with 1000 to 1500 grit before clear is best. Red Scotch brite for painting over primer, gray Scotch brite is sufficient for clearing over paint. Like @oliver2-44 said, if your going to clear over dry paint. Make sure that it is fully cured.

 

The wet over wet like @squonk suggested works very well. Just make sure that you stick to using the same brand paint & clear. DO NOT mix brands!

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squonk
57 minutes ago, Achto said:

 

DO NOT mix brands!

That goes for "party favors" as well!  :occasion-partyblower:

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peter lena

@ MIKE-eash , think  time is your paint finish assist , looking at many available chemicals , for paint protection. would just regularly , use a mild paint cleaner , on a clean cloth , to touch it up . have personally used  lubrication on dull / chalky  / faded paint , that worked out well . your paint finish / will almost tell you what's needed . easy to look up paint protection , after a timely  dry / setting . pete

 

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Mike_eash
On 9/16/2023 at 10:53 AM, peter lena said:

@ MIKE-eash , think  time is your paint finish assist , looking at many available chemicals , for paint protection. would just regularly , use a mild paint cleaner , on a clean cloth , to touch it up . have personally used  lubrication on dull / chalky  / faded paint , that worked out well . your paint finish / will almost tell you what's needed . easy to look up paint protection , after a timely  dry / setting . pete

 

Thank you

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Mike_eash
On 9/15/2023 at 8:29 AM, squonk said:

So I assume you didn't clear over it? It would handle the bumping and banging of reassembly if you did.

I did not use clear. And I did get some reassembly scratches here and there.

But it's live and learn next time I will use clear

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squonk

Clear will help but job rd paint is fragile if you're not gentle putting it back together.

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