1076 trans is weak

[horseman with no horse 26]

I recently picked up a rougher horse from a friend and I found the trans to be pretty weak off the bat. I was told it was weak but I wasn’t expecting the absolute gutlessness that I was presented with. Foward is slow and revers is almost non existent. From what I can tell there’s a few ways to tell what part of the trans is the issue, I just don’t know exactly what to test and what the results of the tests may mean. How exactly do I test it? I know it has a big pump on top and the bottom half probably just consists of a standard wheel a matic but I can’t tell for sure given it’s condition. I’ve read they are labeled wheel o matic but are actually sundstrand units? Idk where to begin honestly 

[Ed Kennell 38,158]

Check the tow valve.   Make sure it is in the run position.

[daveoman1966 3,751]

The 1076 has the Sundstrand 310007 auto and is nearly identical to model 90-2046.  Your tractor is, of course, 57 YEARS old....no doubt, time for an overhaul.  This NOT a diffcult undertaking...  I have attached a .pdf file to guide you through the process.  I've done a dozen or more of these rebuilds.  I've kept a few hundred in-process pics if you need.  You can get gasket and O-ring sets from BJ Hydraulics for around a 'C' note.  Here is what you'll likely find inside the Hydro Pump: Don't let the pics scare you off...there is nuthin' tuff about this.   

SUNDSTRAND HYDROGEAR refurb.pdf

[horseman with no horse 26]

3 hours ago, daveoman1966 said:

The 1076 has the Sundstrand 310007 auto and is nearly identical to model 90-2046.  Your tractor is, of course, 57 YEARS old....no doubt, time for an overhaul.  This NOT a diffcult undertaking...  I have attached a .pdf file to guide you through the process.  I've done a dozen or more of these rebuilds.  I've kept a few hundred in-process pics if you need.  You can get gasket and O-ring sets from BJ Hydraulics for around a 'C' note.  Here is what you'll likely find inside the Hydro Pump: Don't let the pics scare you off...there is nuthin' tuff about this.   

SUNDSTRAND HYDROGEAR refurb.pdf 3.35 MB · 0 downloads

Wow that’s a lot to do but I might be able to get it down. I noticed two horrible issues that scare me. One being there is no fan at all left on the pulley. And two someone ran too small of a belt on it and the brake was like 20 percent engaged. Furthermore the filter is at least 20 years old I’m sure it needs replacing but I checked the fluid and it was full and clean. Lastly I suspect the cam plate is wore or cracked too.

[kpinnc 12,013]

1 hour ago, horseman with no horse said:

Wow that’s a lot to do but I might be able to get it down. I noticed two horrible issues that scare me. One being there is no fan at all left on the pulley. And two someone ran too small of a belt on it and the brake was like 20 percent engaged. Furthermore the filter is at least 20 years old I’m sure it needs replacing but I checked the fluid and it was full and clean. Lastly I suspect the cam plate is wore or cracked too.

 

I've yet to open a hydrogear that hadn't chewed the brake paw up. Unfortunately the shavings sometimes clog the pickup screen. Combine that with obvious lack of servicing (20 year old filter), and the fan being non-existent, it's probably gonna need a rebuild. 

 

If you rebuild it, I suggest staying with the ATF as opposed to motor oil. It runs cooler and cleaner. 

[horseman with no horse 26]

1 hour ago, kpinnc said:

 

I've yet to open a hydrogear that hadn't chewed the brake paw up. Unfortunately the shavings sometimes clog the pickup screen. Combine that with obvious lack of servicing (20 year old filter), and the fan being non-existent, it's probably gonna need a rebuild. 

 

If you rebuild it, I suggest staying with the ATF as opposed to motor oil. It runs cooler and cleaner. 

Yeah I was gonna use A-ATF since the manual mentioned it, also I think someone swapped the pulley on the pump to a manual geared style pulley, since I believe the fan is supposed to be cast and part of the pulley and should be inseparable. But idk maybe it’s a different revision where the fan bolts to the pulley. I still suspect it’s the wrong pulley because the pump shaft barely runs halfway though the center of the pulley. I will add pictures of the pulley and the position of the brake lever before and after pulling the undersized belt off.

[WildHorses 382]

Wheel Horse recommended using 10W-30/40 in the Sunstrand repair manual but they do say it's best to not switch unless a rebuild is performed. 

[squonk 41,079]

The original fan was a flimsy metal one that probably broke long time ago. Your grass screen is missing too. I think I have one that I had repaired if you decide to fix your transmission. Might be easier for you to get a used unit. 

 

 

You cab see the grass screen and fan in this pic.

 

 

 

Edited September 11, 2023 by squonk

[953 nut 55,198]

18 hours ago, horseman with no horse said:

I found the trans to be pretty weak off the bat. I was told it was weak but I wasn’t expecting the absolute gutlessness that I was presented with. Foward is slow and revers is almost non existent.

The cam plate could be a big part of your problem if the transmission isn't getting full range of motion when you change directions. Is the hydraulic lift working and strong?   If the lift works well then the pump is adequate and the problem is likely to be broken Acceleration Springs. When the transmission is shifted from forward to neutral or reverse the acceleration springs take a beating. After a few decades of this they tend to be broken and the acceleration valves don't seal anymore.

Lowell @wheelhorseman has the springs and the cam plate you need as well as seals, gaskets and other goodies.

https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product-category/hydro-transmissions/

 

[Wild Bill 633 845]

FYI, I install magnetic drain plugs and FilterMags on all canister type filters, including engine and hydro.

[horseman with no horse 26]

2 hours ago, 953 nut said:

The cam plate could be a big part of your problem if the transmission isn't getting full range of motion when you change directions. Is the hydraulic lift working and strong?   If the lift works well then the pump is adequate and the problem is likely to be broken Acceleration Springs. When the transmission is shifted from forward to neutral or reverse the acceleration springs take a beating. After a few decades of this they tend to be broken and the acceleration valves don't seal anymore.

Lowell @wheelhorseman has the springs and the cam plate you need as well as seals, gaskets and other goodies.

https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product-category/hydro-transmissions/

 

Gonna look at the cam plate today. Also idk if the hydraulics work I don’t have any attachments and idk where the actuation lever for it is 

[horseman with no horse 26]

What size belt and pulleys does the 1076 use? I need to find a belt that fits, and I need to know the proper size for the drive and driven pulley to make sure I’ve got the right ratio. I already expect the rear is incorrect but idk the size so I can’t tell for sure. 

[horseman with no horse 26]

7 hours ago, 953 nut said:

The cam plate could be a big part of your problem if the transmission isn't getting full range of motion when you change directions. Is the hydraulic lift working and strong?   If the lift works well then the pump is adequate and the problem is likely to be broken Acceleration Springs. When the transmission is shifted from forward to neutral or reverse the acceleration springs take a beating. After a few decades of this they tend to be broken and the acceleration valves don't seal anymore.

Lowell @wheelhorseman has the springs and the cam plate you need as well as seals, gaskets and other goodies.

https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product-category/hydro-transmissions/

 

Is there just the one accelerator spring as shown in the picture? Or is there one for reverse too?

[squonk 41,079]

3 hours ago, horseman with no horse said:

What size belt and pulleys does the 1076 use? I need to find a belt that fits, and I need to know the proper size for the drive and driven pulley to make sure I’ve got the right ratio. I already expect the rear is incorrect but idk the size so I can’t tell for sure. 

Judging by the rust and dirt that pulley hasn't been off.

 

[953 nut 55,198]

3 hours ago, horseman with no horse said:

What size belt and pulleys does the 1076 use?

1/2"  X 78", I have had good luck with the Tractor Supply Kevlar belts

3 hours ago, horseman with no horse said:

Is there just the one accelerator spring as shown in the picture? Or is there one for reverse too?

There are two, one at the front is for reverse and the one at the back is for forward.    

8 hours ago, horseman with no horse said:

Also idk if the hydraulics work I don’t have any attachments and idk where the actuation lever for it is

Many 1076 tractors did nnot have the hydraulic lift. If it had this it would be a quick way to know if the pump is strong.

[horseman with no horse 26]

11 hours ago, squonk said:

The original fan was a flimsy metal one that probably broke long time ago. Your grass screen is missing too. I think I have one that I had repaired if you decide to fix your transmission. Might be easier for you to get a used unit. 

 

 

You cab see the grass screen and fan in this pic.

 

 

 

Can I see your pulley up close to see how the fan attaches to the pulley? Also if it’s possible I still want to know the correct rear pulley size so it’s doesn’t interfere with the proper size belt once the brake lever rests in place correctly for the first time in 20 years. In other words I want to know if a stock belt would even work.

[squonk 41,079]

The fan attaches with  4 screws. You can see the holes in your picture. That pulley looks original to me. I don't have the tractor anymore to give you another pic

[horseman with no horse 26]

Does the fan blow air over the pump towards the left of the tractor? Or does the fan pull air over the pump to the right of the tractor? I’m asking because I believe I have a fan that will bolt right up to the pulley and idk what orientation it needs.

[horseman with no horse 26]

10 hours ago, horseman with no horse said:

Does the fan blow air over the pump towards the left of the tractor? Or does the fan pull air over the pump to the right of the tractor? I’m asking because I believe I have a fan that will bolt right up to the pulley and idk what orientation it needs.

Where would I get a fan for it? Also if it’s possible does anyone have an idea How I can make one worse case?

[Ed Kennell 38,158]

8 hours ago, horseman with no horse said:

Where would I get a fan for it? Also if it’s possible does anyone have an idea How I can make one worse case?

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/forum/169-a-z-tractor/

Edited September 13, 2023 by Ed Kennell

[rjg854 11,361]

Best if you call Lincoln at A-Z Tractor 717-821-2542

[horseman with no horse 26]

Alright I’m ripping the pump and motor assembly off the trans and will pull it apart with detailed pics once I get the correct belt and verify it fits. As for the fan I’m just gonna make one out of sheet metal, I’m gonna do a little step by step with pictures after I get the belt. I’ll keep you posted. As for A-Z they are great but I’m short on cash and want to make this as cheap as possible to make it strong again. 

[horseman with no horse 26]

Alright a new potential problem has arisen.  But I’ll let you guys be the judge of that considering your pretty much the professionals at this point. I got the new correct belt (1/2 x78”;thanks again 953 nut for the correct size) and it fits which is a relief. However i still noticed a lot of slop in the arm that links the idler pulley to the brake actuation lever. Idk if a strong spring will do the trick? Or if the arm needs replacing? I noticed a screw stuck in the slot that took up some slop, idk if it was there on purpose or if it just happened to fall into the slot. But once I removed the screw from the slot the play in the arm became very apparent.

[horseman with no horse 26]

Shouldn’t I be able to just slap a 90-2046 pump/motor on my trans and it work without issue? Or will I need to swap gears or anything else to make it work?

[Tonytoro416 1,034]

Print this off so you can read it clearly.  I have one for every tractor I own. Makes looking for parts and THE CORRECT parts a lot easier when you have part numbers.  This will also show you how things are put together