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ebinmaine

Pegboard swinging wall. Ideas and thoughts wanted.

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ebinmaine

At one point in my life I worked for a GM dealership that had a fairly small but well organized tool room. 

One wall had a series of  double sided sections of peg board that sandwiched a steel frame which in turn swung on hinges mounted to the wall.

In Trina's words, kinda like the old poster racks you would see in department or music stores years ago. 

 

I'd like to build these using exclusively wood with the exception of the screws.

I was thinking maybe a 1" dowel for the hinge point?

 

 

How would you build the frames?

Maybe out of 4x4 spruce?

 

Somewhere near the bottom  outside corner of each door I would put a 4" or larger fixed caster for it to roll on the concrete.

 

Thoughts comments questions suggestions... 

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Pullstart

If you did 4x4 frames, you could always peg it together and nix the screws…

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ebinmaine
19 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

If you did 4x4 frames, you could always peg it together and nix the screws…

 

 

 

Ya know ..

I like that idea. I've never tried that.

 

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Pullstart

I hadn’t either until I did!

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8ntruck

With 4x4 stock, you could do mortice and tension joints.  Use wooden pegs to hold it together.

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CCW

4x4 seems awfully heavy duty unless you have it lying around waiting to be used.  How heavily loaded would the pegboard doors be loaded.  I would be inclined to use 2x4 stock with some corner gussets to reinforce.  Gussets could be recessed into the frame to keep it flush.  I like the wheel on the bottom, but is the floor level enough?

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ebinmaine
3 minutes ago, CCW said:

4x4 seems awfully heavy duty unless you have it lying around waiting to be used.  How heavily loaded would the pegboard doors be loaded.  I would be inclined to use 2x4 stock with some corner gussets to reinforce.  Gussets could be recessed into the frame to keep it flush.  I like the wheel on the bottom, but is the floor level enough?

 

Not sure on the weight yet because we're not sure on the size yet. 

I've thought about doing a few full sheets at 4 x 8 feet but the top and bottom would be pretty challenging to reach. 

Likely we'll do 4 ft x 4 ft. Two feet off the floor with the top at 6 ft.  

Gussets are certainly a reasonable idea.  

 

Floor is new as is the rest of the building. That said, it's not perfectly level, but pretty close.  My thought was to build a little freedom into the hinge points to allow a bit of up/down motion.  

 

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ri702bill
13 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

to build a little freedom into the hinge points to allow a bit of up/down motion.  

Aka "Monkey Motion" - at least that is what we call it...

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Handy Don

Many years ago my Dad and I tried putting pegboard for tools onto the door of a large tool cabinet.

In the end, we took it off again because even moderate speed opening or closing of the door had tools falling off the pegs and and sometimes even off the hooks.

We re-did the door with lipped shelves holding small, labeled coffee cans for parts too large or bulky for the “jar wall”. Some examples: electrical outlets and boxes, switches, springs, joining biscuits and dowels, and parts for toy making.

My version of the jar wall is a series of 8”W x 12”D x 4”H cardboard storage bins (from a car dealer’s parts department shutdown), each containing a set of jars or small boxes with related parts, kept on shelves in re-purposed kitchen cabinets.

Tools are in cabinets or tool chest drawers or my “go bag” (when not scattered around for a project in progress).

 

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ebinmaine
1 hour ago, Handy Don said:

Many years ago my Dad and I tried putting pegboard for tools onto the door of a large tool cabinet.

In the end, we took it off again because even moderate speed opening or closing of the door had tools falling off the pegs and and sometimes even off the hooks.

We re-did the door with lipped shelves holding small, labeled coffee cans for parts too large or bulky for the “jar wall”. Some examples: electrical outlets and boxes, switches, springs, joining biscuits and dowels, and parts for toy making.

My version of the jar wall is a series of 8”W x 12”D x 4”H cardboard storage bins (from a car dealer’s parts department shutdown), each containing a set of jars or small boxes with related parts, kept on shelves in re-purposed kitchen cabinets.

Tools are in cabinets or tool chest drawers or my “go bag” (when not scattered around for a project in progress).

 

I've had the thought about things falling off the pegs. 

Two things to keep in mind there. 

We won't be moving the sections at any kind of speed. Trina in particular is very careful and methodical about everything she does. I'll just learn to play nice with them.  🤪

We won't be moving the sections very often.  The tools we use most often will be on the outside.  

 

I like your cardboard bin boxes idea and do the exact same thing myself.  

That too will be expanding as we move more parts and supplies out there from the basement.   

 

 

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squonk

I like rolling toolboxes better. Get the kind with the wood top for a bench. Maybe add an extra vise.  More bench space, you can roll it across the barn if you want, look nice and tools won't go flying off the pegboards and landing on your foot. Save the wall space for stuff that needs to be hung on a wall like air hoses, cabinets for spray cans and WH signs. 

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JoeM
55 minutes ago, squonk said:

I like rolling toolboxes better.

:text-yeahthat:

 

not much on peg boards, I like having not to walk back and forth to get a tool, unless you are using the board for stuff that is not common. I have 90% of what I use on small tractors in a roll around crash cart. 

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ebinmaine
59 minutes ago, squonk said:

I like rolling toolboxes better. Get the kind with the wood top for a bench. Maybe add an extra vise.  More bench space, you can roll it across the barn if you want, look nice and tools won't go flying off the pegboards and landing on your foot. Save the wall space for stuff that needs to be hung on a wall like air hoses, cabinets for spray cans and WH signs. 

 

If the stuff flies off the pegboard... You moved too fast. 

 

They will BE the wall space. 

That's just the point. 

In a 7 foot span between posts I can have 6 swinging pegboard doors with massive amounts of storage. 

 

Also ... We have 12 foot high walls. 

There'll be plenty of room above them.  

 

Just now, Joey Small Block said:

:text-yeahthat:

 

not much on peg boards, I like having not to walk back and forth to get a tool, unless you are using the board for stuff that is not common. I have 90% of what I use on small tractors in a roll around crash cart. 

 

 

I'm absolutely horrific about

"Outta sight, outta mind". 

 

I like having as much/many  as possible of the less commonly used tools and supplies to be OUT of a drawer. 

 

Walking back n forth won't be a thing.  This setup would be right in the work area.  It'll be setting right beside the biggest toolbox.  

 

 

I do the same thing for the mobile carrying. Rolling cart/seat etc.  

 

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CCW
22 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

I was thinking maybe a 1" dowel for the hinge point?

 

The weight of the tool loaded door might be too much for a 1" dowel.  Just my gut feeling.  Others might have more experience with this.  How about a closet pole for a larger diameter.  For me it would be a piece of black pipe.

 

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ebinmaine
17 minutes ago, CCW said:

 

The weight of the tool loaded door might be too much for a 1" dowel.  Just my gut feeling.  Others might have more experience with this.  How about a closet pole for a larger diameter.  For me it would be a piece of black pipe.

 

 

 

I like that black iron pipe idea

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Handy Don

Using dowels as hinge pins should, IMHO, be left for historical restorations.

Look at the hinge and support ideas for really large swinging gates as seen on ranches.

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ebinmaine
10 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

 

Look at the hinge and support ideas for really large swinging gates as seen on ranches.

 

That's exactly where I got some of the thoughts. The wheel on the bottom in particular. I believe that should be holding most of the weight. 

 

I've looked at the gate hinges but the standard offerings I am finding nowadays are either made in china, ridiculously expensive, or both.

 

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Handy Don
23 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

That's exactly where I got some of the thoughts. The wheel on the bottom in particular. I believe that should be holding most of the weight. 

I've looked at the gate hinges but the standard offerings I am finding nowadays are either made in china, ridiculously expensive, or both.

Point taken. Heavy metal has gotten crazy expensive.

I’ve stopped lately as I’ve got no immediate needs, but I’ve picked up good strong household door hinges at tag sales (and scavenged from complete doors left out for large trash pickup!) Three or four hinges plus a non-pivoting strong caster would hold a lot of swinging stuff.

The black pipe idea is also viable 😉  I’d invest in a correctly-sized Forstner bit and use a ½ hp or better drill (a drill press is helpful here) to make sure you make straight, smooth-sided holes.

 

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ebinmaine
2 hours ago, Handy Don said:

I’d invest in a correctly-sized Forstner bit and use a ½ hp or better drill (a drill press is helpful here) to make sure you make straight, smooth-sided holes.

Drill press I have. 

Some wood bits too. 

I'll double check the appropriate size. :handgestures-thumbupright:  

May have to switch to solid ¾ rod but it'll work. 

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Tonytoro416

If you go the black pipe route you could always make hinges that slide over top the black pipe with stoppers. Kind of like an interior door.  Would just rotate around the black pipe spine if you will 

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formariz

What you are looking to do is relatively easy. There are however many things to consider if success and longevity of project is to be achieved not to mention also safety. Forget about dowels pipes or even hinges for such a project . It will not last. You also do not need wheels for what you want to do. I have done some with wheels but they were over 12 feet in length and motorized. I have done many such a project one illustrated on photos below. That unit probably weighs well over 700 pounds and can be safely operated by a child. I f you are serious in doing it if you want i will draw it for you and even furnish you with the correct hardware free of charge.

 

This project was for a client who had extremely valuable items and artifacts . They are kept in secret room behind cabinet. One half of cabinet opens to access room. It is impossible to know it when closed. Needless to say it is also alarmed.

IMG_0375.JPG.89ce048f815cef857e4485a09bda3bfe.JPG

 

IMG_0381.JPG.90a7f459ed1903ae79ab97f7841f724d.JPG

 

IMG_0265.JPG.573cafdb54fe4f8f9e34731bb3642c8b.JPG

 

IMG_0271.JPG.960c18a095f90c952d2e1a2dfc4feba5.JPG

 

 

IMG_0386.JPG
 

This is the hardware you need for such a project . Rixon Firemark pivots. 

 

IMG_4349.jpeg.65db7cf70706f55a59f4ad9ec7caef4f.jpeg

 

 

Top pivot with walking beam with needle bearings

IMG_4347.jpeg.fb94227aea89d31d104caf7e1708e13f.jpeg


Bottom pivot load bearing 

IMG_4348.jpeg.48311bfc2bf91a60b92f35f23d7edcf6.jpeg

 

 

Edited by formariz
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ebinmaine
10 hours ago, formariz said:

I f you are serious in doing it if you want i will draw it for you and even furnish you with the correct hardware free of charge

That's extremely generous of you Caz and VERY much appreciated.  

 

If it was only one or two doors I'd take you up on the offer. 

I want to make at least 5 or 6 doors and likely more later in different locations.  

 

 

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formariz
12 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

If it was only one or two doors I'd take you up on the offer. 

I want to make at least 5 or 6 doors and likely more later in different locations.  


Door design is relatively simple for your purpose and it probably won’t differ much from each other. As for hardware I probably have more than enough and will never use it. Hardware will vary as per door size and weight . I have a large variety of it in stock here. 

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Lee1977

 

Your not going to ceiling so support it from the top with a chain angled up to and eye bolt in the wall above.

 

 

 

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ebinmaine
On 9/9/2023 at 2:49 AM, Lee1977 said:

 

Your not going to ceiling so support it from the top with a chain angled up to and eye bolt in the wall above.

 

 

 

 

That's a viable option as well. 

I hadn't considered hanging the weight. 

We'll be putting shelves above everything out there but a chain/ cable or two really wouldn't interfere much.  

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