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Sunny Burger

Brand spankin used 312-8

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Gasaholic

Pop mule drive off the front to open the hood all the way then loosen the 4 nuts at bottom of hood just enough for it to slide around with a bit of nudging , close hood to where it closes properly on the steering wheel stand, you shold be able to reach in with a 7/16 wrench to snug down a couple of nuts on either side , and then open hood and tighten down all 4 nuts the rest of the way, should be a nicely adjusted hood. If it won't move any further forward, look for bent hood mount brackets and/or deformed hood. - If the hood is slammed open too hard it is possible to bend its mounting surface, also.  Either case, can usually unbolt the hood entirely and a hammer and block of flat wood (2x4?) to straighten things out and/or remove the mount bracket to straighten THAT , if bent. 

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Matkal

They are different aren't they? I just picked up the same tractor and I'm really liking it

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peter lena

@Sunny Burger  does that come with onion rings? just horsing around , when you replace that seat , scroll down  to pictures 3- 4 for added seat frame springs ,  look on line or maybe even a H/ W store , they make a solid support difference , give that 42 R/D deck plenty of height clearance to reduce grass build up , how do those bearings sound ?  welcome , pete

 

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JCM

:text-welcomeconfetti:to  :rs:@Sunny Burger  Toro part # 111757 console edging goes on the edge of the steering console where the hood comes in contact to cushion the hood and stop from rattling when closed. I think @squonk has a source where you can get that edging by the roll ?

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Pullstart

:text-welcomeconfetti: fellow Michigander!

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Achto

:WRS:

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WHX??

:WRS:

Got some first rate advice on fixing the hood. 

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squonk
1 hour ago, JCM said:

:text-welcomeconfetti:to  :rs:@Sunny Burger  Toro part # 111757 console edging goes on the edge of the steering console where the hood comes in contact to cushion the hood and stop from rattling when closed. I think @squonk has a source where you can get that edging by the roll ?

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/edging/heavy-duty-plastic-trim/

#24175K44

Edited by squonk
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Ed Kennell

:text-welcomeconfetti:to the :rs:Gotta like those 12s.IMG_5556.JPG.794fbd77e85006c0da2e19f9a4c03620.JPG

 

 

 

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WHGuy413

Welcome. Great first Wheel Horse.

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c-series don
2 hours ago, WHX?? said:

:WRS:

Got some first rate advice on fixing the hood. 

You know there’s plenty more where that came from! By that I mean from everyone here 👍🏻

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rjg854

:WRS:

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Matkal
17 hours ago, Gasaholic said:

Pop mule drive off the front to open the hood all the way then loosen the 4 nuts at bottom of hood just enough for it to slide around with a bit of nudging , close hood to where it closes properly on the steering wheel stand, you shold be able to reach in with a 7/16 wrench to snug down a couple of nuts on either side , and then open hood and tighten down all 4 nuts the rest of the way, should be a nicely adjusted hood. If it won't move any further forward, look for bent hood mount brackets and/or deformed hood. - If the hood is slammed open too hard it is possible to bend its mounting surface, also.  Either case, can usually unbolt the hood entirely and a hammer and block of flat wood (2x4?) to straighten things out and/or remove the mount bracket to straighten THAT , if bent. 

Could someone post a couple pics showing how it's supposed to look? 

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davem1111
17 hours ago, JCM said:

:text-welcomeconfetti:to  :rs:@Sunny Burger  Toro part # 111757 console edging goes on the edge of the steering console where the hood comes in contact to cushion the hood and stop from rattling when closed. I think @squonk has a source where you can get that edging by the roll ?

 

Interesting - I think all of mine are missing that console edging, which explains some of the rattling.

 

I'm working on the hood hinges on several of mine, and I'm noticing that these small nylon bushings are either shot or missing (#6 -), and that the holes in the hinges and the hinge bar are badly worn and sloppy.  Not much that can be done other than replacing these parts to get the slop out.

 

image.png.e7ffa8a031bbaba7ec59aa2502cc9f76.pngimage.png.5bec832cca9ce1d159a8d77c96509de3.png

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Skwerl58

For the edging I use some split fuel line and it works great.

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JCM

Part # 6 should be  a retaining ring # 105797  x  2  for the grille pivot rod. I don't believe there are bushings on there. Right side hood bracket # 109145 is available, LH side is NLA. @davem1111 Probably could drill the old hinges and find 2 bushings that would fit locally.

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Gasaholic
1 hour ago, Matkal said:

Could someone post a couple pics showing how it's supposed to look? 

Don't have one of those newer models myself, but taking a closer look at your photos, seems your hood is pushed back a bit - See post # 15 for an exploded view - the brackets #10 and #11 are a bit slotted while the hood (on this illustration) will have square holes for carriage bolts... If you take a close look at underside of hood where it meets dash you should see a bit of "angle iron" shaped metal at edge of hood - the "V" notch that this forms should line up and seat right on the top edge of dash (ideally with the aforementioned part #22 mentioned above - this is also the same stuff that clinches the seat cushions to the metal seat pans, BTW if you happen to have old tractor seats laying around...)   You'd loosen the 4 nuts on the brackets (10,11) and adjust hood so the notch sits as described , then re-tighten the nuts - reason for removing mule drive from front is making it easier to access and adjust. 

 

Now, also looking at your photos, I suspect you have a worn out mule drive belt (Or, an aftermarket one has been installed)  because the mule drive is adjusted so far out that the top surface of it is angled up severely - Normally they should sit pretty near to level with the tractor frame, so when they are adjusted that far out, something's worn out or belt is too long or mule drive pulleys are smaller than they should be (possibly also aftermarket pulleys that are not the right O.D.)  or belt may simply be in wrong PTO groove (Yours appears to be in correct place though) 

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CCW
1 hour ago, davem1111 said:

I'm working on the hood hinges on several of mine, and I'm noticing that these small nylon bushings are either shot or missing (#6 -), and that the holes in the hinges and the hinge bar are badly worn and sloppy.  Not much that can be done other than replacing these parts to get the slop out.

 

 

 

I had the same problem with the hood hinge bolt holes being wallowed out. Acting on a suggestion from someone here I welded the holes closed and drilled new holes.  Problem solved.

 

Edited by CCW
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Ed Kennell

Here are a couple pics of mine.   I use pipe insulation and insulation tape to make anti-rattle bumpers.

You can try to loosen the 4 bolts in the hinges and move the hood forward as far as possible.  but I suspect your hood may be bent open a bit. 

With a little careful pressure, you may be able to bend it back closed a bit.

104_2317.JPG.eda4312b9133beb6a5453ca9b3e3cb69.JPG104_2319.JPG.132452031db2c1e91dfa8cc0aa44828f.JPG104_2320.JPG.a861c28481869f167cf827f50a8dde87.JPG

 

The hood should rest on this angle piece  .104_2318.JPG.3a5d8692957fc814e82c21e7f85a6710.JPG

 

 

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KAA 1973

My 312 had the hood wobble, pivot rod was extremely worn. Decided to add Chevy door bushings and make a new rod.

Found stainless material and stainless C clips. Made a few extra while the machine was set up.

 

0609191608.jpg.14a883bdb0a96203951d5d9a6c5b28ef.jpg

IMG_9970.JPG

IMG_0002.JPG

Edited by KAA 1973

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Ed Kennell
On 9/5/2023 at 5:16 PM, Sunny Burger said:

, as much as my limited skill will allow.

Nothing more satisfying than learning some new skills and doing it yourself.

Buy some tools, watch some videos, ask for help here and there is nothing you can't do to maintain and restore your  Wheel Horse.

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Sunny Burger

Thanks everyone for the kind welcome and the great advice.  I need to straighten up my little garage tonight and plan on giving the WH a once over on the weekend.  

 

All of these suggestions are fabulous.  You people really run a first-rate organization!

 

Thanks again.

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