Gear clutch lever not engaging

[jonw440 187]

My 93 314-8 has a sticking uni-drive clutch pedal problem. I put the tractor into gear(any gear) and I have to reach behind the foot pedal to raise it towards me to get the tractor moving.

Do I need to add an aftermarket return spring? Or could the problem be the belt? Once it gets going there is NO problem with the drive belt.

[Achto 27,569]

33 minutes ago, jonw440 said:

I put the tractor into gear(any gear) and I have to reach behind the foot pedal to raise it towards me to get the tractor moving.

 

Not super familiar with that model. I know some models had a gas shock to return the brake/clutch pedal when it is released. Does yours have this or does it have a spring hooked to the peddle linkage?

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,041]

https://www.partstree.com/models/73400-314-8-toro-garden-tractor-sn-039000001-039999999-1993/clutch-brake-and-speed-control-linkage-5/

[Rick3478 428]

Yeah, somewhere in the early '90s they went to a gas spring, and they eventually leak out.  You can replace it with a new one, or leave it where it is to serve as a damper and add the old school spring.  That was my choice.  The clutch rod and transaxle usually have the unused holes in the right places.

[jonw440 187]

Yes I do have the shock dampener. What size spring would I used instead of replacing the dampener?

[peter lena 8,619]

@jonw440  your 2 major points of trouble , that shock dampher is trouble / failure ,  easily replaced with a spring from similar w/h tractors , another thing is the  COMPLETE  LUBRICATION /  FUNCTION OF ALL RELATED LINKAGE , areosol  penetrating oil will make the rust run out . then a red grease will keep it moving effortlessly . would not be surprised if the IDLER PULLEY is rough  or noisy in function , basic  set up , detailing , pete

[pfrederi 17,734]

WH # 108035

[tunahead72 2,412]

3 hours ago, jonw440 said:

... What size spring would I used instead of replacing the dampener?

 

Probably part number 108035, looks to be about 5/8"x8" looking at photos from various online suppliers.  You can try a good hardware store to find something similar, it probably won't work quite as well as the genuine spring, but it might get you through for now, certainly cheaper.

 

But don't forget lubrication like Pete mentioned.  Check the entire system from the pedal back, and especially the shaft that the pedal rides on.  There's probably an oil hole right on top of the pedal shaft, there may even be a grease fitting there.

 

[jonw440 187]

I will check everything out tomorrow and report back at what I found. Thank you for all the replies!

 

[jonw440 187]

Well I pulled the side cover and the belt guard on the underside of the foot rest. I lubed(PB Blaster) all of the moving parts I could identify. (Cross clutch shaft, the pressured piston ends, greased the zerk for the clutch pedal, and everything else related to the clutch pedal to no avail. If anything its worse. I do have a return spring on the clutch pedal, so I guess I need a heaver one as that one may be stretched out. I am thinking of removing the piston clutch release when I do add the new spring.

[jonw440 187]

I called my local dealer (Boyden Perron) and they have the 108035 spring in stock which I will pick it up Monday and report back.

In case anyone is wondering this spring fits on R1-16O804 92 Wheel horse tractor. You can look this tractor up and see where the spring attaches.

[jonw440 187]

Update: Sorry it took so long to report. I installed it today and what a huge difference! I did have a spring on the unidrive to clutch lever but it wasn't the WH one. The new WH spring is great. Thank you for the help!

Now I am cleaning the carbon off the head and valves. I will post some pictures of that in another thread when I get finished today.

[Handy Don 12,216]

On 8/24/2023 at 6:42 PM, jonw440 said:

I lubed(PB Blaster)

This is a good penetrant and rust dissolver but NOT a long-term lubricant.

Revisit with grease where possible or at least with oil, 30W or higher.