Mike_eash 59 #1 Posted August 14, 2023 Hello I am restoring an old wheelhorse charger I sanded and sandblasted everything and I am using rustoleum primer and 2 coats of rust oleum farm implement paint. I am undecided if I should use a clearcoat or not. Does anyone know how long my paint will last without clearcoat as I am leaning towards not clearcoating. I feel I am not experienced enough with clearcoat and could possibly mess up what I think is an already decent paint job for a newbie Can someone give some insight on this? Is it something I will regret if I don't clearcoat? Any response is greatly appreciated Thank you 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 25,547 #2 Posted August 14, 2023 I have done a couple partial restorations with no clear coat. Rustoleum Regal Red rattle can. Look and perform fine for my purposes... Others will chime in who have used it. Unless it's a trailer Queen I don't see the need... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,436 #3 Posted August 14, 2023 If the red looks good, leave well enough alone. Trust me. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kenneth R Cluley 515 #4 Posted August 14, 2023 Not a fan of clear coat. The last one I did came out "rough" and now a little over a year later is yellowing and hazy. After a while, you can polish and buff the red but not the clear coat. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,079 #5 Posted August 14, 2023 Since it's all ready painted, leave it. The paint will be curing for a while. I have no knowledge of the quality of the paint you used but back in the day "Farm Implement" paint was just a cheap Alkyd Enamel When you want to clear something. Spray 2-3 coats of Rustoleum Regal Red to get the coverage you want. As soon as you set the can down on your final coat, grab a can of Rustoleum Chrystal Clear enamel and spray a coat on top of the red when it's still wet. Wait 10 -15 min and spray a 2nd coat of clear and walk away. I painted this engine with that method. 3 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,169 #6 Posted August 14, 2023 Clear coat IS ... finiky?? if you arent making a 'trailer queen' the just stick with the tried and true Rustoleum ......... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,316 #7 Posted August 14, 2023 20 minutes ago, pacer said: just stick with the tried and true Rustoleum ......... And be prepared to wait a few weeks before assembly......... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,840 #8 Posted August 14, 2023 (edited) I have sprayed both ways, with and without clear. My favorite clear job though, was my wife’s custom “1073” that I built. I wet sanded the original paint job, sprayed with numerous coats of clear, then wet sanded it to a baby’s butt finish, then hit it with one or two last coats of clear. No cutting or buffing at the end, and it worked out awesome. Edited August 14, 2023 by Pullstart 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,169 #9 Posted August 14, 2023 15 minutes ago, ri702bill said: wait a few weeks before assembly......... Really?? That sounds like that crap that TSC started carrying, takes forever to dry and is just crappy. Using acetone as a reducer and hardner and I can handle my stuff within a few hours, and install the next day (depending on heat/humidity) Oddly enough, the hardner comes from TSC! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,316 #10 Posted August 14, 2023 The problem is with the rattle can stuff. You are mixing your own and using a spraygun, for a better application and finish. Ah, yes, the Magik Hardener... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,079 #11 Posted August 14, 2023 1 hour ago, ri702bill said: And be prepared to wait a few weeks before assembly......... That's why I clear it. You can handle everything the next day 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 9,743 #12 Posted August 14, 2023 3 hours ago, Kenneth R Cluley said: Not a fan of clear coat. The last one I did came out "rough" and now a little over a year later is yellowing and hazy. After a while, you can polish and buff the red but not the clear coat. I painted the 312-8 about 6 years ago with rustoleum Regal Red with a gun. Gave it a light wet sand and top coated With Rustoleum Crystal Clear with a gun. Used hardener from tractor supply in both the Regal Red and Clear Coat. Waited about a month, then wet sanded and buffed out the clearcoat. The clearcoat gave it a deeper looking color IMHO. The is my sons weekly mower and the paint has help up excellent. The one thing I would consider doing different is immediately spraying the clearcoat on top of the red (eliminating a step. I have heard of some members doing this. On the other hand if your not a perfect painter (like me) the light wet sand of the red gives you a chance to smooth any orange peal or runs! So Clearcoat has my vote! 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,069 #13 Posted August 15, 2023 (edited) When I semi- restored my 1984 Work Horse GT-1600 and my 1994 520H I used Rustoleum Regal Red in a spray can on the 520H, and I believe Rustoleum Smoke Gray on the Work Horse. I did not clear coat. 1. I was going for darn good, not perfect. 2. I will be using them. They will get scratched. 3. They will get washed every so often but, they will not be left out in the weather. I think they look pretty good for a $140 520H, and a free Work Horse. I did have the wheels powder coated Gloss White… I just like white wheels. On some white works, others not… to !!! Edited August 15, 2023 by Horse Newbie 2 10 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 12,013 #14 Posted August 15, 2023 Clear coat only lasts one of two ways: 1- Your machine is stored indoors out of the sun with rattle can clear. Otherwise you're lucky to get 2-3 years out of it. 2- You have high end automotive clear (there are "cheap" grades too, see #1) applied to a solid base coat. Even then the skill of the painter will play heavily with the results. As has been said already, paint without clear can be compounded periodically to restore if it fades or oxidizes. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,840 #15 Posted August 15, 2023 8 hours ago, Horse Newbie said: When I semi- restored my 1984 Work Horse GT-1600 and my 1994 520H I used Rustoleum Regal Red in a spray can on the 520H, and I believe Rustoleum Smoke Gray on the Work Horse. I did not clear coat. 1. I was going for darn good, not perfect. 2. I will be using them. They will get scratched. 3. They will get washed every so often but, they will not be left out in the weather. I think they look pretty good for a $140 520H, and a free Work Horse. Don’t be so modest! Those machines are wonderful restorations indeed! 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 12,013 #16 Posted August 15, 2023 (edited) 2 hours ago, Pullstart said: Don’t be so modest! Those machines are wonderful restorations indeed! Tim's tractors don't just look good in pictures. They look like "new" in person, and the Work Horse at least (I didn't drive the 520) drives like new too. No rattles, squeaks, nothing. The steering is tight, the clutch has no slop. Makes me think that is what a new machine was like at a dealership back in the old days. Edited August 15, 2023 by kpinnc 2 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 6,657 #17 Posted August 15, 2023 I used Rustoleum IH Red and acetone with a hardener and you could move the part in less then an hour. I did wait a day or so before putting them back together. I fixed three of the worst damaged places and painted over a lot small dents. I looked on youtube at several places on how to mix the paint, everyone was doing something different. I got my mixing cup and started poring got to 4 so I looked at the cup and picked 4,2,2. I had two types of hardner her and couldn't fine the one I wanted. the one I was found was Omni MH 284 (Undercoat hardener). I was ready to paint so I used it. I got a textured finish but it hid all the small dents down each side of the hood.and a long shallow crease down the center. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,840 #18 Posted August 15, 2023 15 minutes ago, kpinnc said: Tim's tractors don't just look good in pictures. They look like "new" in person, and the Work Horse at least (I didn't drive the 520) drives like new too. The steering is tight, the clutch has no slop. Makes me think that is what a new machine was like at a dealership back in the old days. I agree. I didn’t drive them, but I know someone who did. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,620 #19 Posted August 15, 2023 @ MIKE- eash , been using a clean cloth and penetrating oil for regular clean ups , on my paints since paint recovery , paint stays clean / deep shine , sheds moisture like a duck and zero related rust / crud . original paint paint recovered with penetrating oil , pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,069 #20 Posted August 15, 2023 (edited) Thanks fellas for the kind words. I have found a lot of enjoyment out of being a Wheel Horse collector and a member of Redsquare. But know I need to know… @Mike_eash, which way are you leaning based on what you have seen, and your intended use of the Wheel Horse, clear coat or no clear coat ? Edited August 15, 2023 by Horse Newbie 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike_eash 59 #21 Posted August 21, 2023 On 8/15/2023 at 3:26 PM, Horse Newbie said: Thanks fellas for the kind words. I have found a lot of enjoyment out of being a Wheel Horse collector and a member of Redsquare. But know I need to know… @Mike_eash, which way are you leaning based on what you have seen, and your intended use of the Wheel Horse, clear coat or no clear coat ? I am planning on going without clearcoat if I had known about spraying clear right afterthe final coat before I did my final coat and eliminating a step I might have done that. Maybe next time I don't know But based on the look of yours I think I will be just fine without clear although I can only dream of it turning out like yours! I plan on using it a lot I have a mowing deck and would like a sickle mower attachment and a snowblower 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike_eash 59 #22 Posted August 21, 2023 On 8/14/2023 at 8:31 AM, squonk said: Since it's all ready painted, leave it. The paint will be curing for a while. I have no knowledge of the quality of the paint you used but back in the day "Farm Implement" paint was just a cheap Alkyd Enamel When you want to clear something. Spray 2-3 coats of Rustoleum Regal Red to get the coverage you want. As soon as you set the can down on your final coat, grab a can of Rustoleum Chrystal Clear enamel and spray a coat on top of the red when it's still wet. Wait 10 -15 min and spray a 2nd coat of clear and walk away. I painted this engine with that method. How does that hold up with the heat from the motor I have been trying to find engine enamel to match my international harvester red paint i used on the rest of the tractor but have had no luck on an exact match 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,079 #23 Posted August 21, 2023 36 minutes ago, Mike_eash said: How does that hold up with the heat from the motor I have been trying to find engine enamel to match my international harvester red paint i used on the rest of the tractor but have had no luck on an exact match I did this engine 4 years ago with Rustoleum Regal Red and Clear. Still looks this good. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike_eash 59 #24 Posted August 21, 2023 Wow yeah well I might just do that 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites