“They just don’t make ‘em like they used to”

[Pullstart 62,902]

The old ‘69 Chevy needs a carrier bearing.  I found one at the local auto parts store.  I grabbed new greasable u-joints while I was at the store.  These old u-joints are tight and are also greasable.  
 

I had to take the center joint apart to remove the bolt on driveshaft yoke in order to swap the carrier bearing.
 

Do I replace the old u-joints with new metal from who knows what toaster foundry?  

 

Keep what I can, reassemble the old u-joint, give them all the ole’ Greasy Pete and toss the new u-joints in the glove box?

 

@peter lena @953 nut @JCM @WHX?? @Achto what say you fellas?

 

 

[Handy Don 12,232]

Surely not an expert, but FWIW my stingy, penny-pinching alter ego says “if it’s still working and seems like it’ll do the the job, keep it!” 😁

[squonk 41,121]

As long as they are not loose or stiff use em. The fact that they are greaseable probably saved them

[Pullstart 62,902]

Just now, squonk said:

As long as they are not loose or stiff use em. The fact that they are greaseable probably saved them

My thoughts too.  I need to clean the disassembled one and will wipe new grease into the needles for reassembly.

 

1 minute ago, Handy Don said:

Surely not an expert, but FWIW my stingy, penny-pinching alter ego says “if it’s still working and seems like it’ll do the the job, keep it!” 😁

For this one, I’m not looking at money savings, I’m considering quality.  I’ve never seen a well lubricated u-joint fail catastrophically u less in a super high horsepower application or impact.  This old truck has neither issue 

 

 

[Handy Don 12,232]

4 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

I’ve never seen a well lubricated u-joint fail

The only driveline fails I’ve witnessed were complete detaches at the transmission or differential. One from shoddy workmanship (incorrect bolt!) and one from impact (being driven where that vehicle had no business being off-road).

[Gasaholic 224]

My approach to it was, if you gotta pop the U-joints out, replace them with new (and just a super thin dab of never-seez so they come out easier next time) Mainly because it would be hard to keep fine grit out of the bearings when you take it apart and the time spent trying to get them completely clean was more than it was worth (I.E. Time is Money) - but then again most of my work on automotive was as a professional tech. (My own trucks I just replaced the whole driveshaft with a used one when I had a carrier bearing go out on my '71 chevy, and after than I only had Fords with 1-piece driveshafts, so only ever needed new u-joints anyways) 

[peter lena 8,631]

@Pullstart  greasable fittings are good , make sure you you have a green grease flush out of seal areas ,verify smooth solid function , would also give that , center carrier bearing rubber contact areas , some super lube , lubricant , also lube the center mount bolt threading . thats what i would do , pete

[Pullstart 62,902]

2 minutes ago, Gasaholic said:

Mainly because it would be hard to keep fine grit out of the bearings when you take it apart and the time spent trying to get them completely clean was more than it was worth (I.E. Time is Money) - but then again most of my work on automotive was as a professional tech.

 

Good point on the fine grits.  This is a labor of love, time is money is replaced by happiness and old iron pride.  I think I’ll attempt to clean up the old one (that came apart so smooth and easy thanks to being stored inside during the winter) and see how far it gets me.  It’s a truck that won’t ever be a daily driver, won’t ever haul a huge load, just a good ole’ cruiser.

[peter lena 8,631]

@Pullstart regularly do a before and after , verifacation of problem /  fix , test  , how does it work ?  that is a regular on horse repair , based on how can I make this better ?  hope it goes well for you , greasy , pete

[Skwerl58 704]

I would just  clean that old u joint up, check for wear, regrease and ride it. As long as all the bearings look good will probably last as long as most of the new stuff.

[ri702bill 8,326]

Kevin - I would be more concerned about the center bearing. It looks to be OE. And is a PITA to change. While it's already out - might be time to replace it with a "quality" brand ( even MOOG has some of their parts manufactured in Cheaponesia)....

As @squonk mentioned - give the U Joints a handshake feel test - and regrease them...

[lynnmor 7,307]

I've had new joints begin to fail in short order on a two piece driveshaft.  The bearings would eat into the spider because of the cheap junk steel used.  If you replace, try to find joints that were made in a country that might try to make a good product.

[Pullstart 62,902]

1 hour ago, ri702bill said:

Kevin - I would be more concerned about the center bearing. It looks to be OE. And is a PITA to change. While it's already out - might be time to replace it with a "quality" brand ( even MOOG has some of their parts manufactured in Cheaponesia)....

As @squonk mentioned - give the U Joints a handshake feel test - and regrease them...

That’s all replaced already, the purpose of pulling it apart 

[ri702bill 8,326]

Now I get it - you said "carrier bearing" - I thought you had a bad bearing in the differential carrier....... 

[Pullstart 62,902]

Well, after a little elbow grease cleaning needle bearings and the joint body, I found some light galling.  That solves my question, it’s getting replaced!

 

Makes me think too, the other two joints were subject to the same amount of revolutions.  If I’m doing one, I might as well do ‘em all!

[Handy Don 12,232]

16 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

Well, after a little elbow grease cleaning needle bearings and the joint body, I found some light galling.  That solves my question, it’s getting replaced!

 

Makes me think too, the other two joints were subject to the same amount of revolutions.  If I’m doing one, I might as well do ‘em all!

I dunno, that isn’t friction damage, it’s corrosion.

Hey, wouldn’t a dab of JB Weld fix that right up?  

Edited August 7, 2023 by Handy Don