Muffler install

[CCW 1,295]

First a testament to keeping the tractor garaged.  My 36 year old 312-8 has always been garaged and today I finally had to replace the original muffler.  After 36 years it did not owe me anything.  Amazingly the bolt that secured the muffler bracket to the engine came right out with a simple box wrench.  The two nuts on the muffler clamp unscrewed without difficulty using a socket wrench.  I was able to reuse the muffler clamp without any difficulty, just a bit of oil on the threads.

 

Now my question and concern.  My new muffler had to be positioned facing straight down and the exhaust point is just a couple of inches inside the front tire and only a few inches above.  I am a bit concerned with the heat of the exhaust hitting the tire all the time.

 

 

[pfrederi 17,741]

Probably won't hurt the tire unless it sits in one place while running.  I just angle mine forward.

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,535]

Just now, pfrederi said:

Probably won't hurt the tire unless it sits in one place while running.  I just angle mine forward.

 

Exactly what I was thinking. 

 

My muffler on the Automatic C160 is a Gravely replacement so it's shorter than yours but I angled it forward as well.  

 

 

[ri702bill 8,327]

Or... take it to a good Muffler shop - have them cur the exhaust tip off half way up, rotate it (forward or back) and weld it up......

[CCW 1,295]

The original muffler was supported with the bracket.  I notice in the @pfrederi photo that the muffler does not appear to have this second support.  Do you, @ebinmaine, support your muffler in a second location. 

I have the option of turning the muffler straight up and removing the second support bracket completely or is this a bad practice?

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,535]

31 minutes ago, CCW said:

The original muffler was supported with the bracket.  I notice in the @pfrederi photo that the muffler does not appear to have this second support.  Do you, @ebinmaine, support your muffler in a second location. 

I have the option of turning the muffler straight up and removing the second support bracket completely or is this a bad practice?

 

 

 

 

I have two tractors with after market mufflers.

My 1974 c160 8 speed has a stack with a black iron pipe inlet and elbow and a fairly heavy muffler. 

I do have a brace bracket supporting that.

 

 

My 1975 C160 Automatic has only a short piece of black iron for the inlet pipe and the muffler is clamped directly to that.

It's a much smaller Gravely style muffler which is much lighter than the other one. No outlet pipe exiting the muffler.

It's a big difference in weight compared to the other setup and I'm confident that it will be fine without a bracket.

 

 

[peter lena 8,631]

@CCW  check out auto supply , exhaust , odds / ends bin / barrel , very ovten filled with tips / ends , typically foreign cars , I have done that , worth a look , BTW  that muel drive looks sweet with detail function , a clean belt and no rust , who does that ? pete

[CCW 1,295]

3 hours ago, peter lena said:

@CCW  check out auto supply , exhaust , odds / ends bin / barrel , very ovten filled with tips / ends , typically foreign cars , I have done that , worth a look , BTW  that muel drive looks sweet with detail function , a clean belt and no rust , who does that ? pete

 

Yup, my father bought it in 87 and always kept it in the barn.  After his passing I inherited it and immediately enlarged my small shed to keep it out of the weather.  Dad was so so about maintenance and after 36 years the engine has now started to burn some oil. Plow and 36 RD deck and no rust anywhere.  I consider myself lucky. 

 

[peter lena 8,631]

@CCW  have my horses many years  , my c85 over 40, something very easy to try  on a gain , KROIL OIL FUEL TREATMENT  , in the gas , does an amazing job at  cleaning piston ring glands and varnish , typically whenever I experiment , it takes time . would also drop fuel bowl for debris and change fuel filter , that deck could probably use a lubrication soak underside . proped up to sun on the deck lift frame , looking at the sun to get hot and suck  in the oil , kills off the grunge . that plow could ude a lubrication detailing at the plow quadrant area , like a gold mine for easy operation. regularly done those 2 easy  enhancements to my horses . also regularly use a penetrating oil spray down on the paint , let it soak a day , wipe it down till dry with a soft clean cloth  , do it again ,paint usually starts to look deeper in color . leave it in the sun with the oil on it , warm metal draws in the lubrication .  lots of things you might try .  only suggestions  that I have used for years . pete

[CCW 1,295]

Hopefully final solution.  I turned the muffler 180 degrees and it is now facing up.  Exhaust pipe points out to the right and hopefully this works without putting exhaust in my face.  Once clamped in place the muffler support bracket that is part of the unit is just far enough out to allow the hood to open and close without interference. 

 

Edited July 31, 2023 by CCW

[ebinmaine 67,535]

3 hours ago, CCW said:

Hopefully final solution.  I turned the muffler 180 degrees and it is now facing up.  Exhaust pipe points out to the right and hopefully this works without putting exhaust in my face.  Once clamped in place the muffler support bracket that is part of the unit is just far enough out to allow the hood to open and close without interference. 

 

If you like the look of a stack and want to extend the pipe, a piece of 1-1/4" lavatory drain pipe will work. That's what's on my Cinnamon Horse C160.   

[CCW 1,295]

19 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

If you like the look of a stack and want to extend the pipe, a piece of 1-1/4" lavatory drain pipe will work. That's what's on my Cinnamon Horse C160.   

 

I'll keep this in mind.  I do prefer the shorter compact look.