Sur5er 0 #1 Posted July 29, 2023 I have a 1995 Wheel Horse 314-8, with an electrical issue. The 30A fuse (Battery to solenoid) blows when key is turned to ON. It's a dead short to ground it blows so quickly! I tried tracing the harness out to find the short, no broken or frayed wires, but someone has replaced, rerouted, and spliced wiring in the harness with different colors/gauges. They also jumped out the safety interlock switches, which is fine by me since I'm the only operator. I either have to get a replacement or try and simplify the one I have on hand! i.e. Eliminate everything but the start and charge circuits. Pics below show what I found when I removed the tape and wrap! Any and all help...and a harness is appreciated! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,161 #2 Posted July 29, 2023 Wiring is not complicated on this model. The biggest problem is trying to eliminate safety switches on magneto powered engines. You can unplug the long connector for the idiot lights and it will not affect anything else. Download the wiring manual 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gasaholic 238 #3 Posted July 29, 2023 I would start with a process of elimination if it is not easily spotted - First, go to NAPA and get a circuit breaker (Commonly found on school busses still) rated 12v 30a (They'll typically have threaded studs you can wire jumpers with spade terminals to plug in place of the fuse blades) , and then verify the breaker trips (You'd feel/hear it snap) when key is turned on. From that point I'd try and eliminate the biggest systems first - Unplug the engine harness from the tractor (if it hasn't been chopped out and direct wired) , see if the breaker still trips, then unplug the relays (I see you have one out already in 2nd pic) and test for breaker to trip each time (You may have to wait a few seconds to a minute for breaker to reset itself by cooling down) - if you unplug something and the breaker does not trip, you likely have located the sub-system that has the short. (Also while doing unplugging, inspect the plastic connectors carefully for signs of melting, arcing and burning) Common sources of dead shorts like that can be (assuming it was not just some crossed wire "repair") a bad voltage regulator, Possibly electric pump (Which it looks like one was put in), Also common for ammeter to be making contact if it was not properly installed or something behind dash making contact with ammeter.. also, check for throttle/choke wires making contact with wires (ALso can help to inspect the switch connector for signs of melting or blackened terminals). I see someone's posted wiring diagram, so that will also help. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
