520H fuse block question

[RJC1965 170]

I am replacing my fuse block that melted and my question is on the fuse terminal with the two white wires that go together is the connector different. Is there a connector that can take two wires or do you have to crimp both white wires together. Which is kinda of though. If they do make a connector for this that is designed for two wires let me know where I can get some and what are these called. Thanks 

[WHX?? 50,704]

Replacing a fuse block on a 520 is a real PIA no matter how you slice it. Last one I did I just crimped one wire on and led it out and soldered it/ shrink wrapped to the others. Then there's all the pink ones... 

[RJC1965 170]

1 hour ago, WHX?? said:

Replacing a fuse block on a 520 is a real PIA no matter how you slice it. Last one I did I just crimped one wire on and led it out and soldered it/ shrink wrapped to the others. Then there's all the pink ones... 

I agree I started doing the 9pin connector red wire the thicker one was burnt I am thinking of trying some other way to rewire this thing I spent $100 on a crimper and it’s a bear to use. I see others on hear rewire using different style connectors maybe they are easier to attach wires to. The tool is fine just need to watch a video on how to crimp the barrel connectors. It worked great on my trailer rewire. 

[lynnmor 7,557]

I don't remember that being a problem in the fuse block, was the original terminal holding two wires?

 

You can add a jumper around the 9 pin connector to take most of the load out of it.  Simply run an additional wire, with an inline fuse, to the battery connection on the starter.  The first 520s were wired that way, then somebody thought it would be a great idea to have a neat fuse block containing all of the fuses.

 

[squonk 42,519]

2 hours ago, lynnmor said:

I don't remember that being a problem in the fuse block, was the original terminal holding two wires?

 

You can add a jumper around the 9 pin connector to take most of the load out of it.  Simply run an additional wire, with an inline fuse, to the battery connection on the starter.  The first 520s were wired that way, then somebody thought it would be a great idea to have a neat fuse block containing all of the fuses.

 

That's what I did. Separate waterproof fuse holders. And I extended the wires  and put everything on the other side of the tractor away from the muffler heat

[RJC1965 170]

7 hours ago, lynnmor said:

I don't remember that being a problem in the fuse block, was the original terminal holding two wires?

 

You can add a jumper around the 9 pin connector to take most of the load out of it.  Simply run an additional wire, with an inline fuse, to the battery connection on the starter.  The first 520s were wired that way, then somebody thought it would be a great idea to have a neat fuse block containing all of the fuses.

 

I like your idea, so my 97 520 has the fuse block at the 30 amp fuse and has two white wires on one side and the other is red. I just noticed today that on the 97 which is running it has a red wire going around the nine pin so I will have to see how they set that one up I bet it is what you are talking about. My red wire burnt at the nine pin and the 30 amp fuse welded itself to the fuse block. That is the one I am working on it’s a 96 model. 

Edited July 26, 2023 by RJC1965

[RJC1965 170]

5 hours ago, squonk said:

That's what I did. Separate waterproof fuse holders. And I extended the wires  and put everything on the other side of the tractor away from the muffler heat

I am starting to think about going with the upgraded fuses and electrical connectors those nine pins are a real pain to crimp even with my new fancy crimping tool. 
I will keep you all posted I am traveling for work and out of town this weekend so will not be able to accomplish anything maybe Sunday but I will post progress or failures haha 😂 

Edited July 26, 2023 by RJC1965

[peter lena 9,087]

@RJC1965  personally  think that removal / change mount spot for that chronic electrical issue is the way to go . would also detail in a freeer wire setting , eliminating tight / chafing wires , frequently use wire wrap and  electrical hanger wire mounts , to enhance function.  any time I am dealing with a repedative , problem , make aplan to eliminate it . make that a strong point , instead of  the same issue . my horses look the same , but do not have the constant failure  issues , you have to get personally fed up , to get to the , elimination stage . BTW  get ready for , you can,t do that ,  while you are using your tractor . pete

[peter lena 9,087]

@RJC1965 https://www.google.com/search?q=stick+on+tie+wrap+holders&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS866US866&oq=stick+on+tye+wrap+&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUqCAgBEAAYDRge  use on clean paint or a screw mount , along with cable , wire wrap ,  increase grounding , to battery ground bolt  point , pete

[RJC1965 170]

On 7/26/2023 at 7:24 AM, peter lena said:

@RJC1965  personally  think that removal / change mount spot for that chronic electrical issue is the way to go . would also detail in a freeer wire setting , eliminating tight / chafing wires , frequently use wire wrap and  electrical hanger wire mounts , to enhance function.  any time I am dealing with a repedative , problem , make aplan to eliminate it . make that a strong point , instead of  the same issue . my horses look the same , but do not have the constant failure  issues , you have to get personally fed up , to get to the , elimination stage . BTW  get ready for , you can,t do that ,  while you are using your tractor . pete

I agree 100% Pete. It’s best to eliminate/ fix the issues and up grade to a better solution. I like the wire holders on the next post and will order them. I will hopefully make some head way on this today. Will keep you all posted. 

[peter lena 9,087]

@Rjc@RJC1965  yup have a batch of related wiring change overs , interesting thing about making a change / improvement , is more often then not it just works like it s saposed to . also do a lot of snoopin around  for function , any side effects  / better / worse , ts rarely a  one and done . glad to help , always trying something , pete

[RJC1965 170]

Well I completed adding a new 9 pin connector and new fuse block. I did bypass the nine pin for the battery and starter as they were burnt looking. My issue is that when the battery is hooked up my dash lights in the gauges will stay on unless I pull the 15amp fuse. I have not put everything back together yet the coil is loose but hooked up. The lights all work and it turns over just those dash lights staying on. Any idea what to check. I cleaned the main battery ground to the engine block, I pulled the connector for the ignition switch thinking it could have corroded and caused it to close the circuit without the key on,but lights still on I pulled the light switch connector under the dash and still no change. Have to admit wiring troubling shooting is something I struggle with. Let me know what else to check. I do have the colored wiring diagram printed off as well. Thanks all. 

Edited August 20, 2023 by RJC1965

[lynnmor 7,557]

You probably didn't cut out the link on the bottom like the original fuse block.  The 15 amp fuse cannot be connected to the others.  Note that the red and pink do not connect.

 

Edited August 20, 2023 by lynnmor

[RJC1965 170]

14 hours ago, lynnmor said:

You probably didn't cut out the link on the bottom like the original fuse block.  The 15 amp fuse cannot be connected to the others.  Note that the red and pink do not connect.

 

That is exactly what happened I did not cut or separate the one side. That would make since as that side would have power all the time. I will get that cut and report back Thank you Lynnmor for catching that. 

[RJC1965 170]

Thanks for all the help and yes that solved the lights staying on thanks to Lynnmor. I think in the near future I will switch all the wires over to water proof connectors and get rid of the nine pin. I did replace the nine pin and put new pins in it and what a pain they are to work with. I also got the starter wire out and another red wire that was burnt out of the nine pin and put a fuse in both of them. So will let you all know how it runs need to put all the tins back on and am going to clean the gas tank.  Did a compression test and got 102 in the rear and 105 in the front. I will post up on how it runs when I get it back together.