42”RD Comparison

[Sparky-(Admin) 21,318]

  I have a couple 42” RD decks here. Been using both and the one with baffles cuts better than the one without. 
  So does anyone know why one has no baffles? Was it an add-on option from WH? Neither are recycler decks. 
  Of course the no baffle deck is the one with a better shell  . For experimental purposes I just swapped blades and will see if that changes anything when I mow again this weekend. 

 

 

[WHX?? 48,821]

Odd Sparky... got any model #s or years? 

Be interesting to see if the shells have different PNs. 

51 minutes ago, Sparky said:

Was it an add-on option from WH?

Wouldn't have thought so ... aren't the baffles factory welded in? 

[squonk 41,130]

That bottom deck looks just like my recycler deck without the insert.

 

Edited July 19, 2023 by squonk

[Handy Don 12,232]

Following!

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,046]

Mower DNA

1976 model 65-42MR01 replaced by - (Has the flat spindle belt idler pulley mounted on a triangular plate.) - (Has multi-link hardware at the gauge wheel support)

1977 model 75-42MR01 - Both use blades with 5/8" x 3/4" double-D center hole unless the spindles have been upgraded. (Has the flat spindle belt idler pulley mounted on a triangular plate) - (Has multi-link hardware at the gauge wheel support)

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

These all use blades with 3/4" center hole.

1977 model 75-42MR02 replaced by - (Has the flat spindle belt idler pulley mounted on a flat bar) (Has multi-link hardware at the gauge wheel support)

1978 model 85-42MR01 - (Has the flat spindle belt idler pulley mounted on a flat bar) (Has multi-link hardware at the gauge wheel support)

1979 model 95-42MR01 - No ipl available

1979 model 95-42MR02 - (Has no multi-link hardware at the gauge wheel support)

1980-1983 model 05-42MR01

1984 model 05-42MR02 - Last year for bearings with 3/4" ID

1985 model 05-42MR03 - First year for bearings with 17mm ID unless older spindles were updated.

1986-1988 model 05-42MR04

1989-1990 model 15-42RC01

1990-1992 model 15-42RC02

1993-2012 model 78350

 

Note - 17mm is .669"

[Lane Ranger 10,968]

The recycler deck baffle was bolted in not welded.  The deck Sparky has with beagles was an earlier rear discharge deck that had welded in baffles.  That is what I know from the various (7 or 8) 42 inch decks I have had over thirty years. 

[Sparky-(Admin) 21,318]

This is the ID tag off the non-baffled deck: 

[Brockport Bill 1,662]

9 hours ago, Sparky said:

  I have a couple 42” RD decks here. Been using both and the one with baffles cuts better than the one without. 
  So does anyone know why one has no baffles? Was it an add-on option from WH? Neither are recycler decks. 
  Of course the no baffle deck is the one with a better shell  . For experimental purposes I just swapped blades and will see if that changes anything when I mow again this weekend. 

 

 

wow -  you guys must have e.s.p. - i was just going to post almost the exact same question 2 days ago about the 42 r.d. mowers -- asking about the differences in the underneath design ---- but in addition to your question about the baffles/flanges, i was going to ask about the "reinforcement plate" that's underneath that reinforces the anchor bolts that go to the back rear of the lift carriage assembly to prevent shell fractures occurring from the carriage bolt anchor stress points? i have a 42 r.d. with the baffles, but also  a few different other 42 rd's  - one with the plate, the other without the plate ?  Even the recycler model had those reinforcment plates -actually looks like 2 plates??? Was curious any insights anyone could give??????? I was actually as a preventive maintenance to save future fractures, was thinking of adding a reinforcment plate to the 42 r.d. that does not have one? i notice the photo your display of the 42 without the baffles, has no reinforcement plate but squonks does have the plate??

[Sparky-(Admin) 21,318]

2 hours ago, Brockport Bill said:

wow -  you guys must have e.s.p. - i was just going to post almost the exact same question 2 days ago about the 42 r.d. mowers -- asking about the differences in the underneath design ---- but in addition to your question about the baffles/flanges, i was going to ask about the "reinforcement plate" that's underneath that reinforces the anchor bolts that go to the back rear of the lift carriage assembly to prevent shell fractures occurring from the carriage bolt anchor stress points? i have a 42 r.d. with the baffles, but also  a few different other 42 rd's  - one with the plate, the other without the plate ?  Even the recycler model had those reinforcment plates -actually looks like 2 plates??? Was curious any insights anyone could give??????? I was actually as a preventive maintenance to save future fractures, was thinking of adding a reinforcment plate to the 42 r.d. that does not have one? i notice the photo your display of the 42 without the baffles, has no reinforcement plate but squonks does have the plate??

 

 

I never realized there were so many differences in the 42RD… I just always assumed if it was 1973 or newer they were all the same. 

[Sparky-(Admin) 21,318]

  Small update: blade swapping did not improve the way the non-baffled deck mows. All I can figure is that the baffles keep the grass “in the deck” for another blade revolution or two and that’s enough to improve its cut. 
  No matter what though, neither RD deck is good if I delay mowing for a couple days and the grass gets a bit long. They both leave long clumpy grass behind. 

[Brockport Bill 1,662]

3 hours ago, Sparky said:

  Small update: blade swapping did not improve the way the non-baffled deck mows. All I can figure is that the baffles keep the grass “in the deck” for another blade revolution or two and that’s enough to improve its cut. 
  No matter what though, neither RD deck is good if I delay mowing for a couple days and the grass gets a bit long. They both leave long clumpy grass behind. 

one of the principles i have learned from all the "lawn tips" web sites is one piece of advise for any mowing is to only cut the top one third of grass blade ( many reasons but primarily it makes for healthier lawn) --- I've mowed with various decks and the one thing i try to avoid is too much layer of dead grass clumped all over lawn - - Today i am going out to mow and grass is tallest its been all season  because we've had so much rain its hard to get an opportunity to mow when its not wet grass - therefore it keeps growing - but when i mow today i will raise deck to highest level - i wont cut down to typical height because i dont want to take off that much grass blade and leave dead grass clumps -- just cutting the top third -- then hopefully i'll cut again in couple days

[elcamino/wheelhorse 9,311]

@Sparky I cleaned my 42 RD deck this working with the power washer so there are no pictures (I got soaked), anyway it does not have any baffles. I guess it is from the 70's no stickers. @squonk probably removed them to mess with me before I purchased the deck. All my 36" RD decks have baffles at the front. Grass gets caught in the curves and if one is not careful brown weld appears at the end of a mowing season.

[Rick3478 428]

Without the baffles, wind from the blades will bend some of the grass over into the triangular areas between the blades along the front edge.  The baffles control that wind, so all else being equal the baffled deck will make a bit more even cut.  I don't think any of my RD's have baffles.

 

My neighbor cuts his about every other day, but I let mine go until it "needs it".  I might go back over bad areas a second time, but usually I just figure it's going to have to be done again anyway, and sometimes good enough is good enough.

[Handy Don 12,232]

SO many variables when cutting grass (or other green stuff), right? Length and type of grass, moisture, amount being cut, blade sharpness and speed, deck inside shape and airflow, and more. 

 

5 hours ago, Rick3478 said:

Without the baffles, wind from the blades will bend some of the grass over into the triangular areas between the blades along the front edge.

After reading up on mulching/recycling mowers, I found that their goal is for airflow at the ends of the blades to lift the grass up straight so it’ll cut cleanly and then have the clippings be forced downward into the now-cut grass around the center of the blade. Cutting off too much of the grass at once clogs the airflow preventing the intended fine chopping.

 

The WH recycler fully encloses each blade in a cylindrical baffle but with deflectors to slow the cuttings from just spinning along with the blade so they’ll drop down. My mulching walk-behind also has a circular shell very close to the blade ends.

[Lane Ranger 10,968]

My 42 Inc recycler deck was pretty clogged up with wet grass when I took it off this am.   I cut the lawn yesterday and it was a little high , not wet but the deck just wasn’t cutting RJ night.   I changed the deck to PTO belt with a ne  as one as old one was well worn . 
 

cleaned off deck and re coated with some Rustoleum.  Not my best cleaning job but very little rust anyway.

 

Buster my quadrant for the rear wheels lift after sharpening and reinstalling the mower blades.    So ordered a r Ed placement quadrant and will reweld the old one as a spare 

 

Looks like I will put my old 36 inch rear discharge deck on my B-80 got my next mowing job! 

[peter lena 8,631]

@Sparky  have 3  RD  42"  decks , my experience with the baffle set up , was  to remove the  ROT BOXES , literally could not keep up with , packed , rotting grass, since removal , and regular  lubrication / hot sun drying , have zero rust / rot or any  unit cracking / splitting , another benefit  is a very clean discharge , and very good cutting , have found the lubrication soaking far  outdoes the , paint coating , underside is stained black , from open gear lube  , and  chain lubricant , regularly rub down the outside , with mineral oil , preserves paint  , and zero rust . of course , each deck , has re greased , spindle bearings , as well as  PTO DRIVE SET UP , AND MULE DRIVE BEARINGS . lucas 550  flash point grease , quiet , smooth  spinning . repetitive  operational failure , demanded a change ,  none since , the  redo , pete 

[Brockport Bill 1,662]

1 hour ago, peter lena said:

@Sparky  have 3  RD  42"  decks , my experience with the baffle set up , was  to remove the  ROT BOXES , literally could not keep up with , packed , rotting grass, since removal , and regular  lubrication / hot sun drying , have zero rust / rot or any  unit cracking / splitting , another benefit  is a very clean discharge , and very good cutting , have found the lubrication soaking far  outdoes the , paint coating , underside is stained black , from open gear lube  , and  chain lubricant , regularly rub down the outside , with mineral oil , preserves paint  , and zero rust . of course , each deck , has re greased , spindle bearings , as well as  PTO DRIVE SET UP , AND MULE DRIVE BEARINGS . lucas 550  flash point grease , quiet , smooth  spinning . repetitive  operational failure , demanded a change ,  none since , the  redo , pete 

Hey Pete - - can you say more about the mineral oil wipe on the mower deck surface paint? -- Benefits - the chemistry of the process? Absorbtion? Frequency? etc? What about the value of mineral oil versus gear/chain oil etc ? I've seen You tube from a few yrs back  of a guy putting Fluid Film on his tractor - hood etc? Any added thoughts are always appreciated ?

[lynnmor 7,307]

When looking for a 42" RD, know that some models have a nice solid bar around the bottom edge where others are just rolled tin.  I believe that you can see it in the above photos.

[peter lena 8,631]

@Brockport Bill  yes , been using mineral oil on a number of painted areas . mineral oil on the top of the deck , is fine to save paint atop rust , don't like fluid film , for lack of durability , ok in a confined spot , but pretty weak to outside areas , have used regular penetrating oil on , horse paint , let it sit a day or 2 , then wipe it down with a clean soft cloth, if it shows a start of a shine , do that again . at that stage have used a 6 " palm buffer , cleaner wax , to save what's there , mineral oil is a great creeper oil, stops rust , then over spray that with gear / chain oil , terrific rustproofing protection . personally , my experience with  lubrication  , paint salvation . has been very good , recently , did a paint reoil , on the horse , used penetrating oil , let it sit , couple of days , wipe off, paint looks period correct . fresh / clean , deep shine . lubrication durability , on paint , is amazing , especially on older paint , and its relatively easy to do , like a  recovered finish . pete  

[Brockport Bill 1,662]

39 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

When looking for a 42" RD, know that some models have a nice solid bar around the bottom edge where others are just rolled tin.  I believe that you can see it in the above photos.

 on different era mower decks the perimeter of the shell edges on 42 Side Discharge also can include, or exclude, that reinforced edge bar -- adding strength, or not ??

[peter lena 8,631]

@Brockport Bill  think that bar adds strength , obviousely  that was an attempt to retain older style / type , deck heft / strength. another thing , that I do , is to make sure that bar to deck connection , gets a regular penetrating oil /  chain lube spray down . would rather have oil feeding a rust prone area than moisture . just how I see it , don't have any faded / unlubricated  areas on my stuff .  BTW ,  the paint stage on those decks , is perfect for a penetrating oil  spray down / soak  down , let sit a day or 2 , then wipe down . been doing this for years , all my decks have the squared off  wheels , like a silicone grease on them , stands up , enhances function . thats in the SUPER LUBE CATAGORY , also comes in small bottle liquid form . perfect for choke / throttle cables , add  a light spring to those for closing assist , and you will always have a slide assist on movement .  thanks for the shout , pete

[Lee1977 6,663]

On 3/29/2024 at 5:47 PM, lynnmor said:

When looking for a 42" RD, know that some models have a nice solid bar around the bottom edge where others are just rolled tin.  I believe that you can see it in the above photos.

 

 

I have added a 3/8" bar to my decks that don't have the one from the fractory. Add plate supports inside the deck at the rear lift points and the gage wheel support that didn't have them.

The 42 side discharge need the support at the gage wheel bracket as they usually crack there and rust out.

Edited March 31 by Lee1977

[Handy Don 12,232]

On 3/29/2024 at 3:49 PM, Lane Ranger said:

This shot clearly shows the very sturdy individual blade housings and the deflectors and how there isn’t a lot of room in there for an accumulation of clippings. This unit works best with well-sharpened blades--dull blades equals poor cut. Running one of these over sandy soil would get frustrating pretty fast, I suspect.

When we must cut more than 2” off the grass, we tend to do a high pass and then a low pass.

A huge plus of the recycler is that the deck shell has little exposure to clippings and the close, smooth circular housings don’t collect much, forestalling rot.

[peter lena 8,631]

@Sparky  think a lot of deck issues , combines , deck build up , blade condition , discharge , another thing thats very obvious to me , is deck speed , typically held up by  combined drag points , have really gone after , cutting / discharge point , with easier  drive rotation , do not have a baffled deck , but checking over my decks after cutting , there is little to no grass build up , also have a lubricant base in/ on deck underside , stays very clean . guy just up the street from me , screams his set up , but belt drive is a wailing  buzzing belt bounce , what is that telling you ? every related rotational , bearing point , is fractionally hanging up , his start up PTO drive , is screaming , my  PTO  belt drive moves the deck easily , by hand , had a lot of drag points when first started with wheel horse .  you have to change / improve on what's there . pete