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TC10284

308-8 Magnum M8 PTO

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squonk
1 hour ago, TC10284 said:

What are the proper tools I'd need to pull this pulley? I do have a pulley puller, but have never used it. Hate to break it also. 

 

I have a 3 jaw puller. I just want to be careful to not break the pulley lips. 

 

Does anyone know what type of head the set screw is? 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/UMFsJBBmt2n5oaPB6

You need a harmonic balancer puller. You will use 2 screws threaded into the pulley through slots in the puller. If you use that 3 jaw puller you will ruin the pulley.

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TC10284
1 minute ago, squonk said:

You need a harmonic balancer puller. You will use 2 screws threaded into the pulley through slots in the puller. If you use that 3 jaw puller you will ruin the pulley.

 

I believe I have that too. I've used it to pull off flywheels on Onans. 

 

I've been spraying pb blaster on it to penetrate. 

 

But I am not sure yet what head type the set screw is. 

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wallfish
3 hours ago, TC10284 said:

 

I believe I have that too. I've used it to pull off flywheels on Onans. 

 

I've been spraying pb blaster on it to penetrate. 

 

But I am not sure yet what head type the set screw is. 

That would explain why you couldn't just tap the key in if it's not too long to do so. The set screw is locking it in place. It's a hex head and "think" it's size tool 3/16". Best to use an impact gun to shock them loose IMO if you have 1/4" or 3/8" drive Allen tools to do it. Seems like steady cranking pressure on rusted set screws with hand keys tends to strip them. Try tapping it in again after the set screw(s) are loose.

Once the set screw is loose and you need to remove the pulley it helps to tap the pulley in towards the engine first, then puller, then tap it back in, then puller again. Counter intuitive to tap it in and away from the direction you want it go but again, that initial shock of hitting it gets it loose from the shaft. Get it moving back and forth and it should come off easier. Cleaning the rust off the shaft will help with removal and installation putting it back on. It might just pull right off with the puller but that pic shows some Mother Nature brown welding. DO NOT USE A  BFH on it. Tap on the flat center section as much as you feel comfortable and not on the otter edge. A cast pulley like that will break if hit on the groove part. It's hard but it's also brittle.

:twocents-02cents:

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TC10284

I was able to get the set screws out. I know I don't have to fully remove them, but put them up for safe keeping anyway. The first one was already loose. The second one took me having to use some 1/4" fuel hose and a hammer. I tried every hex head bit or tool I had and they were all too short or too short and too fat to fit in the hole. I had to resort to a manual 5/32 alan wrench. But it worked and nothing got damaged or broken. 

 

Next thing, I need to get some bolts that are longer and proper threading to use the harmonic balancer puller. 

 

Pics: 

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNg_3UPdS-qMCkuv1SbAe7g8hLj9oiBkSryHJ5cdZYnYpDIFU_ktzD0DSGIlSoQTw?key=M01qUmNDbkJaczhoM3IyVnNvRm1EN1FzZklzSVJR

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TC10284

Had some time to mess with it this afternoon. 

 

Success! Easier than I thought. Was prepared to use heat and a large hammer on the puller. Didn't need it. 

Now I just need to find a shorter key. 

 

Anyone have any idea what length? 

I'm thinking 1.25" instead of 1.5".

 

Pics. 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/f9WFGnu8yVewRCZYA

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wallfish

Cut the key the same length as the bore of the pulley is deep. File the sharp edges off on the ends only. Put it back togetherf

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