I think the fuel tank strainer is restricting or the float is sticking in my carb. Opinions?

[GAJoe 844]

So while I have the head off and checking the valves I figured it would be perfect to leave the head off to confirm TDC for the valve check. Once I get that done then put the copper spray on the head gasket, put the head back on, put the new grade 8 bolts and go through the torqing sequence. Then after so many hours torque again.

[ebinmaine 67,538]

7 hours ago, GAJoe said:

Then after so many hours torque again

I'd narrow that window down to an hour or two and/or a hot/cold engine cycle or two. 

 

I usually find at 2 outta 10 head bolts will move at that point. 

 

Then go back in a month and a year.  Only takes a few minutes to retorque.  

[GAJoe 844]

I got the valve condition checked, head back on and torqued. I got the valve tappet clearances checked and adjusted. I had the governor set but had to loosen it up to get the valve adjustment covers off and back on. I put the sheet-metal back on and remounted pivots for carb linkages. I got my bushings for the throttle shaft and got it back on the carb'. I'll pick up the carb' rebuild kit and a condenser tomorrow. Who knows? I may get it running again tomorrow and see if I got it fixed while playing catch up.

[GAJoe 844]

I got the rebuild kit installed. I put the carb, coil, and condenser back on. I reconnected all of the linkages, readjusted the governor, and put the mixture screws back where they were. I fired it up and drove it around the yard a few minutes without any drop in RPM's. It's running good once again.  I closed down the fuel supply and burned most of the gas out of the carb. Once it started cutting out I turned off the ignition. It died with a prominent back- fire. Should I change my shut down procedure?

I've had a couple small back-fires in the past, not always, but this one was loud.

I found this:

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/100425-backfiring/#comment-1089696

 

Edited July 21, 2023 by GAJoe

[ebinmaine 67,538]

On mine I bring the RPM down to idle for about 10 seconds, turn the key to off, then immediately raise the throttle to max.  

Something to do with having more air than fuel?

 

@Achto or @wallfish was it you that taught me that? 

[wallfish 17,000]

34 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

On mine I bring the RPM down to idle for about 10 seconds, turn the key to off, then immediately raise the throttle to max.  

Something to do with having more air than fuel?

 

@Achto or @wallfish was it you that taught me that? 

I've on;y had one that would backfire on shut down but turning it off at full throttle solved the problem.

[Achto 27,588]

17 hours ago, GAJoe said:

I found this:

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/100425-backfiring/#comment-1089696

 

You could be on to some thing with the post that you found. Would be worth it to take a look at your switch.

 

In my younger years working on a farm, my boss had an Allis Chalmers D17.  After using it, I would park it in the shed, shut it off, get off the tractor, walk about 10 to 15 steps away from it and then.... BANG!  Scared the crap out of me the first time it happened. Told the boss about it and he just laughed & said "Yup, it does that some times". After that I would just walk away after shutting it off, counting in my head in anticipation of it back firing. 

Edited July 22, 2023 by Achto

[GAJoe 844]

OK Got the hood back on it and retorqued the head bolts. The short spin around the yard made a difference. A couple even moved the first time round with the wrench set at 25#. I'll definitely do it again after an hour. I'm waiting on the new air filter and some research to adjust the mixture settings. Feel free to point me to some instructions on doing that.

Edited July 22, 2023 by GAJoe

[ebinmaine 67,538]

11 minutes ago, GAJoe said:

some research to adjust the mixture settings. Feel free to point me to some instructions on doing that.

I have a chart I downloaded from Redsquare but I'll be d@... If I could tell ya how to find it. 😂.  

 

I can snap a pic and share it later.  

[ineedanother 1,369]

Excellent. Adjusting the carb is really easier than some folks make it out to be. Others might have variations of my method but:

 

Start it and let it get to operating temp.

• run it up to max rpm (use a tach if you have one) and note the position of your main jet screw
• count the turns on the main going in until it loses rpm, note that and return it to your starting position
• do the same backing the main out and note that position.
• your point of adjustment is the mid point between the in and out loss of rpm.

back it down to an idle and do the same with the secondary jet. Lastly you want to adjust your idle speed and max rpm and you're all set to run it at will.  

 

[ebinmaine 67,538]

3 minutes ago, ineedanother said:

Excellent. Adjusting the carb is really easier than some folks make it out to be. 

 

Excellent description. 

 

I'd have just said, fiddle with it til it runs bettah.  

[GAJoe 844]

I found one YouTube video on the topic; seems pretty good.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eBjWpHyL4L4&t=1009s

 

The "new imported" carb didn't respond quite right. I'm not surprised. I'm glad that my original is still good.

Edited July 22, 2023 by GAJoe

[ebinmaine 67,538]

3 hours ago, GAJoe said:

The "new imported" carb didn't respond quite right. I'm not surprised.

If that came from Norman at isavetractors let him know. He seems like he wants to get those right and appreciates the input.  

 

[GAJoe 844]

8 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

If that came from Norman at isavetractors let him know. He seems like he wants to get those right and appreciates the input.  

 

You can tell from Norman's website and training videos that he wouldn't carry a product line that would damage the tractors. He's truly about bringing them back to life as so many of the guys and gals on here.  I see great reviews on his carb's. It's the Amazon ones that have 10% 1 star reviews with tales of binding throttles. I'm not sure where this one was from on this video.

[ebinmaine 67,538]

Thanks to Joe for sending me the copy of the adjustment.  

 

I'll be putting in a request to my local Lamination Department (Trina) so I can post these pics on the shop wall.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Handy Don 12,232]

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

Thanks to Joe for sending me the copy of the adjustment.  

 

Throwing in one note of caution....

I put an aftermarket carb on a snowblower a while back and discovered that the thread count on both the high and low needle valves was metric and not as high as on the original carb. This meant that fewer turns were needed for the initial settings and that it was more sensitive when adjusting. Turned out fine once I realized that.

[GAJoe 844]

I found a modern PDF of a Kohler K series manual.

 

"1. With the engine stopped, turn the low and main fuel adjusting needles in (clockwise) until it bottoms lightly. NOTE: The tip of the idle fuel and main idle fuel adjusting needles are tapered to critical dimensions. Damage to the needles and the seats in carburetor body will result if the needles are forced. 2. Preliminary Settings: Turn the adjusting needles out (counterclockwise) from lightly bottomed per the chart.  Start the engine and run at half throttle for 5 to 10  minutes to warm up. The engine must be warm before making final settings. Main Fuel Needle Setting: This adjustment is required for adjustable main jet carburetors only. If the carburetor is a fixed main jet type refer to Walbro adjustment. Place the throttle into the wide-open or “fast” position. If possible, place the engine under load. Turn the main fuel adjusting needle out (counterclockwise) from the preliminary setting until the engine speed decreases (rich). Note the position of the needle. Now turn the adjusting needle in (clockwise). The engine speed may increase, then it will decrease as the needle is turned in (lean). Note the position of the needle. Set the adjusting needle midway between the rich and lean settings. 5. Low Idle Speed Setting: Place the throttle control into the “idle” or “slow” position. Set the low idle speed to 1200 RPM* (+ 75 RPM) by turning the low idle speed adjusting screw in or out. Check the speed using a tachometer. *NOTE: The actual low idle speed depends on the application - refer to equipment manufacturer’s recommendations. The recommended low idle speed for basic engines is 1200 RPM. To ensure best results when setting the low idle fuel needle, the low idle speed must not exceed 1500 RPM. 6. Low Idle Fuel Needle Setting: Place the throttle into the “idle” or “slow” position. Turn the idle fuel adjusting needle out (counterclockwise) from the preliminary setting until the engine speed decreases (rich). Note the position of the needle. Now turn the adjusting needle in (clockwise). The engine speed may increase, then it will decrease at the needle is turned in (lean). Note the position of the needle. Set the adjusting needle midway between the rich and lean settings. Adjust To Midpoint Lean Rich -0-B Figure 8. 7. Recheck idle speed using a tachometer. Readjust speed as necessary."

 

In the last step 7 is the speed adjustment done with the "Idle Speed Adjusting Screw" as in step 5?

[ebinmaine 67,538]

7 hours ago, GAJoe said:

In the last step 7 is the speed adjustment done with the "Idle Speed Adjusting Screw" as in step 5?

Yes sir

[GAJoe 844]

On 7/16/2023 at 3:44 PM, GAJoe said:

@ebinmaineIs this the correct cap? Thanks for chiming in!

 

 

The hole in the cap wasn't sealed intentionally there is a spot on the underside of the hood where the cap touches and has the paint worn off. So the vibration slowly rubs the hole full of the plastic. Got a solution?

[ebinmaine 67,538]

22 minutes ago, GAJoe said:

solution

 

In your upper pic below I'm not sure if the ventilation is ONLY occuring at the larger of the places circled in blue. 

 

A#1.  Check to see if the interior tan disc rotates. 

If not:

Was it mine, what I'd do is drill a wee bitty hole in the top so it's ON the yellow circle (getting the hole away from the top of the cap) and lined up with one of the red circles (keeping the hole from being lined up with EITHER blue one). 

 

 

 

If it doesn't work you've lost nothing because you already have a cap that does not vent right. 

 

[GAJoe 844]

2 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

 

In your upper pic below I'm not sure if the ventilation is ONLY occuring at the larger of the places circled in blue. 

 

A#1.  Check to see if the interior tan disc rotates. 

If not:

Was it mine, what I'd do is drill a wee bitty hole in the top so it's ON the yellow circle (getting the hole away from the top of the cap) and lined up with one of the red circles (keeping the hole from being lined up with EITHER blue one). 

 

 

 

If it doesn't work you've lost nothing because you already have a cap that does not vent right. 

 

great idea

[ebinmaine 67,538]

13 minutes ago, GAJoe said:

great idea

I only got about one a year so hopefully this works.  

[GAJoe 844]

There is a filter material between the vent part and the top cap to prevent a splash from coming out. I put a couple 1/16" holes just off of the top center where it rubs the hood.

Edited July 23, 2023 by GAJoe

[GAJoe 844]

On 7/22/2023 at 8:54 AM, ebinmaine said:

Thanks to Joe for sending me the copy of the adjustment.  

 

I'll be putting in a request to my local Lamination Department (Trina) so I can post these pics on the shop wall.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I made the adjustments to the mixture needles. I couldn't get a good RPM reading from the photo tachometer to set the minimum yet. I'll have to revisit that.

[ebinmaine 67,538]

46 minutes ago, GAJoe said:

I made the adjustments to the mixture needles. I couldn't get a good RPM reading from the photo tachometer to set the minimum yet. I'll have to revisit that.

TBH I "go by ear". 

 

My experience shows me I'm better off having the idle on the high side. 

More oil splash. 

More air flow. 

Both somewhat important in an air cooled splash lube engine.  🤔