Brake pedal and deck height linkage issues

[JR1 0]

Hi! Well, I've looked all over and maybe I missed it somehow so if I did, I apologize. I have a 1987 (I believe) Wheel Horse 310-8. I have 3 problems - well, the main 3 - that I am trying to resolve:

1 - The brake pedal does very little with regard to stopping but the biggest issue with that is that the pedal does not spring back to into position after pressing down on it. I took the left rear wheel off tonight and there seems to be a good amount of lining on the shoe. But when I press the pedal forward it doesn't come back up. I am guessing that the spring has sprung?

2- I'm looking for information for adjusting the chain linkage that connects to the deck for raising and lowering the deck. Even with the adjustment wheel set to the highest position, when I lower the deck to mow, it sits to low and cuts the grass way too short. I have been mowing now with the deck in its raised position which cuts the grass at a good height, but I know something isn't right here.

3 - This one I have found some information on but not completely resolving this issue. I replaced the transmission lever boot later last season so it has not gotten a lot of use. I noticed a couple of weeks ago that this one has a tear in it around the round edge of it, at its widest point, I need to remove it, maybe tomorrow, to take a better look at it but I think it may have split at the seam. I'm in contact with the seller so I may be OK with that. I have a spare but I taped this one up for now. Just didn't know if anyone have recommendations for a better built boot.

 

Thank you in advance for any help, direction, etc.

 

[8ntruck 7,007]

I'll chime in on your item #2.  The mowing height is controlled by the gage wheels on the deck, not the knob on the lift lever. The gage wheels are adjusted by the small lever on the right hand side of the deck - unless you have a 48" deck, where the adjusting lever is on the left side of the deck.  The linkage that supports the deck allows it to 'float' or move independently from the tractor to better match the ground contours while mowing.

 

The knob on the lift lever adjusts the stop on the lever.  This will control the working height of other implements.  The front snow plow blade is an example of where the knob on the lift lever adjusts the working height.

 

Others will probably be along shortly with help on your other questions.

 

to the forum.  Bunch of good folks here.  As a group, we have probably broken and repaired anything on a Wheel Horse that can break.  Better, we are willing to chi,e in with advice and ideal to help others keep their Wheel Horse going.

 

Good luck and have fun with your 310.

[Lee1977 6,663]

The brake pedal issue, never had a problem with the brake spring. I have the same system in a C-120 that is 44 years old. There is a oil hole in the brake pedal, you can't see it it;s under the belt guard. I suggest oiling it and see if that helps. There is also one on the clutch pedal that you can see. If you do need a new brake spring it's Toro No. 107677 it's under the shifter plate down near the frame. There could be grass and dirt build up in that area causing the pedal to bind up. I use my air compressor to blow off and out of those areas. try to do it evertime I mow.

 

 

Edited July 14, 2023 by Lee1977

[squonk 41,121]

Another issue. Deck wheels wear down pretty quick and get smaller lowering the cut. May be time for some new ones.

[Skwerl58 704]

Your issues are common to these tractors. Like stated earlier lube it but first clean the brake linkage at its pivots with a good quality penetrating lube and then use a god quality spray lube on it after it runs clear from the penetrating oil. I have started lubing mine at least every month or so during mowing season. About the deck there should be a linkage rod on the back of the deck that you adjust as well as the wheels and the lift linkage to maximize height. I have attached this old but goos thread to address the deck height.

 https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/39928-adjusting-a-mowing-deck/

I replaced the boot on my 1987 a couple of years ago from a vendor here and no problems so far. 

[Racinbob 11,082]

Providing yours is a 1987 that is the last year (I think) before they started to do stupid things with dampers, struts and what not to protect those who didn't know how to release the clutch pedal. As long as you don't have any of that stuff just make sure things aren't binding and are lubricated. If that not the issue replace the spring. I always have a couple 108035 springs on the shelf. they last a long time but if they do fail it's usually one of the ends breaking. Sometimes an owner will need a spring and find a 'replacement' at a hardware store. Definitely not recommended. 

[tunahead72 2,414]

2 hours ago, squonk said:

Another issue. Deck wheels wear down pretty quick and get smaller lowering the cut. May be time for some new ones.

 

Hey Mike, just to clarify...  Are you talking about the gauge wheels or the rollers, or both?

 

I've never been totally happy with the mowing height on any of my tractors, even after all the usual adjustments and necessary parts replacements, but I've never actually checked the rollers very carefully.  As long as they're basically in one piece, with not too many missing chunks, I tend to keep them.  Maybe it's time for a closer look, especially the rear ones, which I suspect wear out more quickly than the fronts.

 

[squonk 41,121]

11 minutes ago, tunahead72 said:

 

Hey Mike, just to clarify...  Are you talking about the gauge wheels or the rollers, or both?

 

I've never been totally happy with the mowing height on any of my tractors, even after all the usual adjustments and necessary parts replacements, but I've never actually checked the rollers very carefully.  As long as they're basically in one piece, with not too many missing chunks, I tend to keep them.  Maybe it's time for a closer look, especially the rear ones, which I suspect wear out more quickly than the fronts.

 

The rubber deck wheels on the height adjuster bar. They are pretty soft rubber 

[oliver2-44 9,756]

1 hour ago, tunahead72 said:

 

Hey Mike, just to clarify...  Are you talking about the gauge wheels or the rollers, or both?

 

I've never been totally happy with the mowing height on any of my tractors, even after all the usual adjustments and necessary parts replacements, but I've never actually checked the rollers very carefully.  As long as they're basically in one piece, with not too many missing chunks, I tend to keep them.  Maybe it's time for a closer look, especially the rear ones, which I suspect wear out more quickly than the fronts.

 

I believe the original rear ones were 6-1/2" I went to 7-1/2" diameter rear deck wheel. The largest that would fit.

[8ntruck 7,007]

I think the rollers on the deck are anti-scalp devices.  

[kpinnc 12,065]

6 hours ago, squonk said:

The rubber deck wheels on the height adjuster bar. They are pretty soft rubber 

 

If those are 6 inches, they should provide a cut height of 2.5- 3 inches.

 

The front and rear scalp wheels should not touch the ground unless crossing unlevel terrain.

 

The aduster link on the rear of the deck is for leveling. The link connects the rack on top to the lift bar at the rear of the deck. It has a 3/8 nylock nut that adjusts the throw of the link. Typically connects to a tab between the two rear scalp wheels.

 

If set correctly (implement lift arm full down), the front of the deck will be slightly (less than 1/2 inch) lower than the rear. This provides relief to the blade "disc" so only the front edge of the blades do the cutting.

 

Even if the lift chain breaks, the rack on top of the deck and belly hitch will support the deck, IF the adjuster link is set correctly. 

Edited July 14, 2023 by kpinnc

[rlrnot 39]

I just have a question.  Are you trying to stop the tractor using the brake only?  The brake will not stop the tractor unless the clutch is pressed ( disengaging the engine from the transaxle) also.

[JR1 0]

On 7/14/2023 at 7:33 AM, Lee1977 said:

The brake pedal issue, never had a problem with the brake spring. I have the same system in a C-120 that is 44 years old. There is a oil hole in the brake pedal, you can't see it it;s under the belt guard. I suggest oiling it and see if that helps. There is also one on the clutch pedal that you can see. If you do need a new brake spring it's Toro No. 107677 it's under the shifter plate down near the frame. There could be grass and dirt build up in that area causing the pedal to bind up. I use my air compressor to blow off and out of those areas. try to do it evertime I mow.

 

 

Thanks for the reply. I got that one resolved, thanks to some WD-40. Apparently we had some rust, etc. binding up the brake pedal and the bar that the brake pedal pivots on. I need to look harder for that oil hole in the brake pedal. Thanks!

[JR1 0]

On 7/14/2023 at 9:12 PM, rlrnot said:

I just have a question.  Are you trying to stop the tractor using the brake only?  The brake will not stop the tractor unless the clutch is pressed ( disengaging the engine from the transaxle) also.

Not try to stop it with clutch engaged. Figured it out... rust in between the pedal and the rod that the pedal pivots on. Thank you.

[JR1 0]

On 7/13/2023 at 11:09 PM, 8ntruck said:

I'll chime in on your item #2.  The mowing height is controlled by the gage wheels on the deck, not the knob on the lift lever. The gage wheels are adjusted by the small lever on the right hand side of the deck - unless you have a 48" deck, where the adjusting lever is on the left side of the deck.  The linkage that supports the deck allows it to 'float' or move independently from the tractor to better match the ground contours while mowing.

 

The knob on the lift lever adjusts the stop on the lever.  This will control the working height of other implements.  The front snow plow blade is an example of where the knob on the lift lever adjusts the working height.

 

Others will probably be along shortly with help on your other questions.

 

to the forum.  Bunch of good folks here.  As a group, we have probably broken and repaired anything on a Wheel Horse that can break.  Better, we are willing to chi,e in with advice and ideal to help others keep their Wheel Horse going.

 

Good luck and have fun with your 310.

Thanks for the reply and sorry for my delay. I understand about the deck gauge wheel adjusting the height. But if I drop the lift lever down, the deck drops down a bit also and ends up giving my lawn a scalp job, even with the deck gauge wheel up as high as it will go. I had taken the deck off a couple of years ago and apparently screwed up something I guess because I could drop the deck before and get a good cut. For some time now I have been cutting the lawn with the lift lever up.

 

[lynnmor 7,307]

6 hours ago, JR1 said:

Thanks for the reply and sorry for my delay. I understand about the deck gauge wheel adjusting the height. But if I drop the lift lever down, the deck drops down a bit also and ends up giving my lawn a scalp job, even with the deck gauge wheel up as high as it will go. I had taken the deck off a couple of years ago and apparently screwed up something I guess because I could drop the deck before and get a good cut. For some time now I have been cutting the lawn with the lift lever up.

 

You LOWER the deck wheels as far as they will go for maximum cutting height.