I finally took the plunge!

[Thatoneguy 197]

So I borrowed this from a buddy.  Maybe it’s because I never have blasted before but it just seems like I am wasting tons of material.  I have been trying to tweak it and get the setting correct but after an hour and a half all I have done is what’s in the picture. I don’t have a huge compressor or anything but I would think it would at least provide something that I could accomplish without 10lbs of media on the ground.  Maybe this is just the way it is???? Can someone give some input. My compressor is rated for 5cfm max 200psi. I also have welding gloves and a 3m double filter respirator mask. 

Edited July 14, 2023 by mower

[lynnmor 7,302]

9 hours ago, mower said:

So I borrowed this from a buddy.  Maybe it’s because I never have blasted before but it just seems like I am wasting tons of material.  I have been trying to tweak it and get the setting correct but after an hour and a half all I have done is what’s in the picture. I don’t have a huge compressor or anything but I would think it would at least provide something that I could accomplish without 10lbs of media on the ground.  Maybe this is just the way it is???? Can someone give some input. My compressor is rated for 5cfm max 200psi. I also have welding gloves and a 3m double filter respirator mask. 

 

You need way more compressor and use the cheapest media you can find.  I would take the frame to a shop that does blasting, the equipment needed is just too large and costly for a one time job.

[JPWH 6,032]

What psi do you have your compressor set? What size tank do you have?

[Thatoneguy 197]

It’s. 15 gallons tank and I tried it all different. 40-50-50-70 psi. I think I may call a body shop today and get some prices around town here 

[Thor27 767]

That blaster will need a whole lot more air. With a 60 gal, 6 hp compressor and 10ish SCFM I spend more time waiting for the compressor to make air than actually blasting. Once pressure drops below 90 stop.  You can conserve some on media by laying out a tarp, but you will need to sift it.  YMMV

[Thatoneguy 197]

It’s slow going but I am getting some things done.  

[Thatoneguy 197]

18 hours ago, Thor27 said:

That blaster will need a whole lot more air. With a 60 gal, 6 hp compressor and 10ish SCFM I spend more time waiting for the compressor to make air than actually blasting. Once pressure drops below 90 stop.  You can conserve some on media by laying out a tarp, but you will need to sift it.  YMMV

Yea I kinda gave up on that. I am going to do what I can with a wire wheel and see if I can pay someone to blast it 

[ebinmaine 67,254]

14 minutes ago, mower said:

Yea I kinda gave up on that. I am going to do what I can with a wire wheel and see if I can pay someone to blast it 

We don't blast. We don't pay anyone either. 

You can definitely get everything cleaned up well with some elbow grease. 

No worries either way and it's up to you. 

I'd rather spend the money paying someone for a better paint job than cleanup.  

 

[Thor27 767]

I like these, well like is a strong word....but, they will remove paint and light rust quickly and not damage the metal.

 

 

Then I blast the areas I can't get to.  

Edited July 16, 2023 by Thor27

[ebinmaine 67,254]

8 hours ago, Thor27 said:

they will remove paint and light rust quickly and not damage the metal

I'll second that

[Thatoneguy 197]

So I was looking at my piston and getting ready to order some rings for my HH120 120180D and noticed these 2 marks on it.  Are they suppose to be there or will I need to replace the piston? 

[ebinmaine 67,254]

@richmondred01 @squonk @pfrederi

[squonk 41,018]

Piston needs to be replaced. Bore needs to be checked for taper and out of round as well. Take it to a machine shop..

[Thatoneguy 197]

12 minutes ago, squonk said:

Piston needs to be replaced. Bore needs to be checked for taper and out of round as well. Take it to a machine shop..

May I ask what would have caused that? A stuck ring? 

[squonk 41,018]

Piston looks : Overheated, scuffed, side on the top shows erosion. What did the ring look like? 

[Thatoneguy 197]

6 minutes ago, squonk said:

Piston looks : Overheated, scuffed, side on the top shows erosion. What did the ring look like? 

Well I was referring to the notch in the piston. I probably should have said that! 

 

As for the rings I don’t guess I looked up close at them but will get some pictures when I get home. 

[richmondred01 2,237]

1 hour ago, squonk said:

Piston needs to be replaced. Bore needs to be checked for taper and out of round as well. Take it to a machine shop..

Yep 100% correct. 

[Thatoneguy 197]

What would be out of spec for out of round and taper? It is a 3 1/2bore with the standard piston in it currently. I measured the top of the bore last night with my dial caliper which has a dead battery and it was right at 89mm. I am learning most of this internal engine stuff as I go so forgive me if I have not said the correct terms.  Just want to have an idea when I do find out the taper and if it is out of round what path I will need to take.  Thank you for all the input on this as I would not be as far as I am now without it!!    
 

I have attached a picture with the model and serial number in case it helps with anything! Also I have allot of cool and interesting paperwork on the tractor I plan to upload this evening that I think some people will find interesting! 

Edited July 20, 2023 by mower

[lynnmor 7,302]

The notch in the piston appears to be a hole where a pin was installed to prevent the ring from rotating.  Many two stroke engines have such a pin, I don't know if they were used on these engines.  Going on that theory, is there a mark on the cylinder bore where a loose pin may have cut in?

 

A caliper has no place in measuring cylinders.

[Thatoneguy 197]

It does have one score line that you can feel with your nail but it does not catch the nail. 

Edited July 20, 2023 by mower

[richmondred01 2,237]

7 minutes ago, mower said:

It does have one score line that you can feel with your nail but it does not catch the nail. 

The scratch is an issue however, if you want it done correct you need to measure the cylinder, in several locations, with a bore gauge. 

[Thatoneguy 197]

2 minutes ago, richmondred01 said:

The scratch is an issue however, if you want it done correct you need to measure the cylinder, in several locations, with a bore gauge. 

Yes I knew I would have to deal with that scratch. However I was not sure if I would be able to hone it or if it would need to be bored.. I guess we will cross that bridge when we get there!   I will bring out the ol trusty hammer! 

[richmondred01 2,237]

2 minutes ago, mower said:

Yes I knew I would have to deal with that scratch. However I was not sure if I would be able to hone it or if it would need to be bored.. I guess we will cross that bridge when we get there!   I will bring out the ol trusty hammer! 

Ok. I’m out. All the best. 

[oliver2-44 9,678]

@mower there is a thread under the Instructional section under Engines and titled Small Block Kohler Rebuild. I know you have a Tecumseh but this thread has a lot of good applicable info. 

[Thatoneguy 197]

Just now, oliver2-44 said:

@mower there is a thread under the Instructional section under Engines and titled Small Block Kohler Rebuild. I know you have a Tecumseh but this thread has a lot of good applicable info. 

I will check it out. I am taking it to have the taper check and see if it is out of round in the morning. So i figured I would give her a bath!