Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Thatoneguy
39 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

Easier to control the force being applied if the bolt has a fine thread.

@Handy Don unfortunately I have already welded the course thread bold on the plate.  Hopefully it will get it off and maybe I will make one with fine threads later down the road!  Thank you for the advice though I did not think about that when I was bolt shopping! 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine
28 minutes ago, mower said:

@Handy Don unfortunately I have already welded the course thread bold on the plate.  Hopefully it will get it off and maybe I will make one with fine threads later down the road!  Thank you for the advice though I did not think about that when I was bolt shopping! 

You'll be fine with the coarse thread as long you're conscious of the difference while using the puller. 

 

 

Remember.  It took 40+ years to become stuck. 

It won't likely slide right off.  

Tighten it up. 

Heat if possible.  

Let it set a bit.  

Repeat.  

Repeat.  

 

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Thatoneguy

Does anyone have any suggestions on what kind of tires to buy? I would like to have the tractor tires on the back. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine
2 hours ago, mower said:

Does anyone have any suggestions on what kind of tires to buy? I would like to have the tractor tires on the back. 

 

Peruse this thread:

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Thatoneguy

A little update on my sundstrand.  After pressure washing it the by pass valve leaks once it is screwed in passed a certain point. I put a new o-ring on it but still does the same thing.  If I screw it all the way in I can sit there and watch it start to seep past it… any ideas.  Does this require thread tape or any type of thread sealant?

image.jpg

image.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine
2 hours ago, mower said:

Does this require thread tape or any type of thread sealant?

@daveoman1966 ?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Achto
On 7/7/2023 at 2:27 PM, ebinmaine said:

what's your puller got for a center bolt?

 

I use a 3/4" center bolt

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Thatoneguy

Got the puller made and painted.  Going to give it a try this evening. 

08D009B3-BDD0-4D97-988F-0C1DFDCA694E.jpeg

  • Excellent 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Thatoneguy

Things are just not going my way…. Any ideas?  I am thinking cut it off….

image.jpg

  • Sad 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ineedanother
45 minutes ago, mower said:

Things are just not going my way…. Any ideas?  I am thinking cut it off….

image.jpg

Yep. Cut it off. Don't ever consider a BFH to remove a hub! The axle is held laterally with a c-clip which doesn't tolerate excessive force being applied.

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Thatoneguy
Just now, ineedanother said:

Yep. Cut it off. Don't ever consider a BFH to remove a hub! The axle is held laterally with a c-clip which doesn't tolerate excessive force being applied.

BFH? What is that? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ineedanother

Big friggin hammer :D

  • Like 1
  • Haha 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Wheel-N-It

DITTO, just cut it off. Nothing there left to save

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Thatoneguy

Well after about 3 1/2 hours and who knows how much propane, I had to cut one hub off and the other slid off like a piece of sandpaper on wool!  Checked for play in the shaft and will be replacing seals before reassembly! Thanks to everyone for their help getting them off, especially @richmondred01 for being faster than Amazon on the new hubs! 

C3848A5F-342A-44D8-8BD9-1A663BCB781D.jpeg
:tools-hammerdrill:

EBDD58C0-E0C6-4F6C-8046-FDCEA584D20C.jpeg

Edited by mower
  • Like 1
  • Excellent 5
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine
1 hour ago, mower said:

slid off like a piece of sandpaper on wool!

:ROTF:

 

 

 

 

1 hour ago, mower said:

Well after about 3 1/2 hours

 

Mine average at least a day or two. 

I've had one take two weeks!!

 

You did just fine. 👍

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Wheel-N-It

Fortitude led the way.   Good work !!

I've not had this problem working on wheel horses, but its good to know what can be expected. 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Thatoneguy
8 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

:ROTF:

 

 

 

 

 

Mine average at least a day or two. 

I've had one take two weeks!!

 

You did just fine. 👍

Well I broke the first hub last Thursday trying to get it off.  Then I thought it might be a good idea to wait and get some advice as I wasn’t really sure what to do when I got down to 3 lug holes!! :tools-hammerdrill:

I got the puller finished Monday night and got it all bolted up and thought hell I don’t even have a socket or wrench big enough to fit it…. :text-imwithstupid:  

So you could call it 5 days! 

Edited by mower
  • Haha 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Thatoneguy

This is what I came up with to get my needle bearing out of the pto pulley housing..  I am no machinist and lucky me :angry-banghead: my caliper battery died, but the way I read it it is 1.30x1.42 with the sides rounded.  I can get it in there without modifying anything on the pulley housing and pounded :tools-hammer: it right out.

2D5AAF9E-FF58-4C56-988F-2AEBFF53D489.jpeg

8D20C321-0695-45E1-B857-450251F14827.jpeg

Edited by mower
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
oliver2-44

If your planning on using the same bearing, I would clean it in place.  The needle cage will probable get damaged trying to remove it. you can flush it with solvent and an old 1" brush, then give it a final spray down with a cab of brake clean.  Fill  it with a clean cloth and tape it off for painting.  

Of course if your replacing it that will work.  I know there is a snap ring on the PTO end with the roller bearing.  I seem to recall their also being one on the needle bearing end.  

 

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Thatoneguy
1 hour ago, oliver2-44 said:

If your planning on using the same bearing, I would clean it in place.  The needle cage will probable get damaged trying to remove it. you can flush it with solvent and an old 1" brush, then give it a final spray down with a cab of brake clean.  Fill  it with a clean cloth and tape it off for painting.  

Of course if your replacing it that will work.  I know there is a snap ring on the PTO end with the roller bearing.  I seem to recall their also being one on the needle bearing end.  

 

Yes I got everything out of it fairly easily. I will be getting a new needle bearing. :text-thankyouyellow:

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Thatoneguy

My apprentice!  Looks like he knows just the tools to go for! :tools-hammer:

A3C7F74D-0DDE-4E3E-8422-F6F941E646A4.jpeg

  • Excellent 1
  • Heart 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine
1 hour ago, mower said:

My apprentice

That's AWESOME 

  • Heart 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Thatoneguy

Anyone had any experience repairing worn gears on the steering?  Mine are worn and in the past when I turn left hard it would pop a few times before catching.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine

In short, replace em. 

 

The gears can be closed in to some extent by a properly placed washer behind the cotter pin ... But... If yours are already "jumping" past they'd be better off replaced by a good used set.  

 

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Wheel-N-It
23 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

In short, replace em. 

 

The gears can be closed in to some extent by a properly placed washer behind the cotter pin ... But... If yours are already "jumping" past they'd be better off replaced by a good used set.  

 

 

Ditto on what Ed said about this.

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • MainelyWheelhorse
      By MainelyWheelhorse
      Hi All, I’m a member of the RedSquare Facebook group, some of you may have seen My tractor there. I have a 1992 312-8 with a 37 inch deck. It came with a house my brother bought, and was given to me. It needed work but just minor things. I mow my lawn with it, and I just bought a plow to push snow/dirt so it’s a working restoration. It was relatively well taken care of by the previous owners so it really just needed a refresh. Anyway see you around the site!


    • Traveller28
      By Traveller28
      I wanted to jump on here and show y'all my lastest project. A 1960's model 704(mainly, other parts are used that aren't 704) i decided to try what I've wanted to do for a while. I had a bunch of parts lying around from other builds I've done and decided to pull out the frame and hood from the last 704 I built and start putting together my tricycle gear tractor.



    • OldWorkHorse
      By OldWorkHorse
      The start of the new winter project. I'm going to need more K1! 

    • OldWorkHorse
      By OldWorkHorse
      Working on a custom light bar for the recently restored 314-8 


    • OldWorkHorse
×
×
  • Create New...