moe1965 749 #1 Posted July 3, 2023 I bought this switch on eBay part # 103990 which also is to be the same as part # 111226. There is no marking for ignition or "l". Do I use a different post on the back of the switch or did I get the wrong one. It's going on a C 141 K series engine. Thanks in advance for any feed back Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,156 #2 Posted July 3, 2023 That's the wrong switch for a battery ignition. It's designed for M Magneto type engines like the Magnum series. Not K engines 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 69,557 #3 Posted July 3, 2023 I've had VERY poor luck with cheap replacement switches. Wrong fit. Poor quality. Fast wear out. That is NOT a 103990. Might be a 103991. Return (or trash heap it) and verify you're getting a real Toro part. Not just a "works for/works in place of/same as part number" such n such. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,660 #4 Posted July 3, 2023 (edited) There was a good posting here a short while back - it dealt with purposefully using the wrong style switch and what would happen. Forgot the mix, but one instance would do no harm and the tractor would not start , the other results in a smokeshow... DO NOT use it... Edited July 3, 2023 by ri702bill 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,156 #5 Posted July 3, 2023 I to a magneto coil will supply power to those coils and smoke'm M to a battery ignition coil will just ground it out and no power so no spark. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 69,557 #6 Posted July 3, 2023 5 minutes ago, ri702bill said: There was a good posting here a short while back - it dealt with purposefully using the wrong style switch and what would happen. Forgot the mix, but one instance would do no harm and the tractor would not start , the other results in a smokeshow... DO NOT use it... I believe..... You put a Battery Ignition switch where an M switch should be and you could feed the Magneto a bit of Voltage which could fry it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,660 #7 Posted July 3, 2023 15 minutes ago, wallfish said: I to a magneto coil will supply power to those coils and smoke'm M to a battery ignition coil will just ground it out and no power so no spark. 15 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: believe..... You put a Battery Ignition switch where an M switch should be and you could feed the Magneto a bit of Voltage which could fry it. That's the ticket..... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
moe1965 749 #8 Posted July 4, 2023 Thanks for all info. I'm having a hard time finding a good replacement other than a used switch. Any suggestions on a good replacement or a source to find one Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,156 #9 Posted July 4, 2023 https://www.ebay.com/itm/233354345939?hash=item365500bdd3:g:JawAAOSwcqhkcFzO&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4DhqQl3ehtptuCRtzBxW%2BPUFaRb0d1PwmGHw%2F2AOE2HYskY3pulQpFStQ4IgboKRw2qQObJMMTRfTA0qPlrrMdYUNmerPpEwQjINn7xcAUFVfV9gSi0VPPt6MJqEhHFWvgjeh%2FGhVd9Yp5pmETwLtynRcVZDOtVDhQuN6f4W%2F1XhqDgaO0qNhfXh8S850bRREkbiHjhPQrgxeFdDXMqGLlrMhHR5uud9olcmf%2BNtMXXAdjdzbMTcaugiaK5AfdQSzFeLjYcJoLuad5fmu%2F5MXL3mD86bJbKigA8u8zQn8YEW|tkp%3ABFBM-IDw5qNi When you install it, look for the water weep hole on the body of the switch. Point that hole down so it can weep water/moisture out. Premature failure is typically caused by moisture inside the switch and causes issues with the contacts. Switches come with different diameters for mounting in different size holes too 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,660 #10 Posted July 4, 2023 (edited) @wallfish - John brings up an excellent point about the drain hole - it needs to be on the bottom. Some, not all replacement switches come with either an external flap you push the key thru, or the key itself has a domed hood that surrounds the face of the switch. Neither are water PROOF, they just help to prevent the ingress of rainwater or moisture from a washdown. Do inspect the area on the terminal side for two things - minute but visable cracks around the crimp and that the urethane is visable around all the terminals and the body... It is meant to be a SEALANT, NOT a glue to hold the switch together!! Consider returning the switch if either is a visable problem... My last employer had a line of crimped diecast zinc bodied Ignition Switches - some going back to the early 1900's!! I got involved with a production issue where the "Closing Tool", used in a press to roll over the housing at final assembly was wearing out. A new one was made to the old paper print, but parts were coming apart during qualification testing due to the presence of stress cracks in the roll. I was asked to "reinvent the wheel" on CAD to determine the tool shape during 4 or more progressions as the tool closed the part. The secret to prevent cracks is to compress or pack the roll as it folds inward... not all vendors want to follow that method with a multi-radiused tool. Edited July 4, 2023 by ri702bill 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,174 #11 Posted July 4, 2023 If youre in a kinda bind and need to get er goinjg .... I've had good luck going to my nearest parts store (O'Reily, Advance, etc) they generally have a small display of common mower parts including both types of switch. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,170 #12 Posted July 4, 2023 19 hours ago, moe1965 said: I bought this switch on eBay part # 103990 which also is to be the same as part # 111226. There is no marking for ignition or "l". Do I use a different post on the back of the switch or did I get the wrong one. It's going on a C 141 K series engine. Thanks in advance for any feed back This appears to be the switch you have but function needs to be confirmed to be sure. Still a very popular switch. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
