JCM 9,492 #1 Posted July 1, 2023 Been contemplating for some time to do this so I could replace the steering / top console that someone along the line decided to cut a hole in the upper right corner. Also the gauge and shift plate need to have the decals removed and strip and paint all three. I have a source on a replacement top console that is part # 111271 that I am awaiting confirmation. If for some reason that doesn't pan out I will put an add in the classified section here looking for a 400 or 300 series console. both have test lights. Made a support bracket to stabilize the steering shaft and after some deep creep soaking got out the 3/16 snap-on roll pin punch to do its job. The black cover for the shaft is solid on this model unlike the 300 and other 400 series tractors. 2 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,550 #2 Posted July 1, 2023 What about a small 3 arm (not jaw) flat steering wheel puller for the hub?? Is the hub off?? Just the cover is stuck?? Cover material?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,816 #3 Posted July 1, 2023 @JCM wait you can,t do that ! eliminate wheel bounce , with a wall stud , you been snoopin around in my trouble zone ? only horsing around on that , once I eliminated that bounce , and a solid 3/16 roll punch , in holder , and 3/ lb hammer , pin slid right out .that deep creep , gets it done , pete 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JCM 9,492 #4 Posted July 1, 2023 Once I removed the roll pin Bill, the hub came right off, no puller needed. Steering wheel has a bolt on adapter. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,550 #5 Posted July 1, 2023 So, it looks like the issue is the long cover below the hub - right?? Is it plastic like a C81?? You gave it a good blast of Deep Creep - maybe it's time to use a hair dryer to warm it up?? You need to keep the heat source moving... can you get a flat blade screwdriver or small putty knife wedged under it to lift up?? That cover has a LARGE L/D (Length to Diameter) ratio, probably 6 or more times longer than the diameter. No wonder it's stuck... If I were making that part myself, i would undercut the inside diameter by about .010-.020, leaving a 3/4" long raised ring at both ehds and one near the middle to break the "sticktion" that you are seeing.... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JCM 9,492 #6 Posted July 2, 2023 (edited) The adapter you see on the end of the shaft @ri702bill is held on there by a roll pin. Soaked the pin, made the brace and knocked out the roll pin. I was showing the black cover to everyone so they could see the difference between the 420 solid cover and all other covers that are not solid inside just guides to keep it centered. The cover was not stuck and slid right off. Now the work begins trying to make it look like it did or close to it in 1986. Edited July 2, 2023 by JCM 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,816 #7 Posted July 2, 2023 @JCM there are 2 levels of repair , duplacate what was there , or upgrade / improve that failure zone , thats what I regularly do , without a replace it as it was . feel if you are right at a failure / issue spot , why not look at how it was saposed to work , and mke it better ? , realise for the purests / and the newbies , you have to duplicate replace . would rather improve that function , then again I jumped over the fence a long time ago . just how I see it , pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
