stevasaurus 22,724 #26 Posted June 30, 2023 I would replace all 4 seals and the gasket. I would not buy anything else until I knew what I needed. Lowell is a vendor on this site, and he has all you would need. When I order from him, I usually get the stuff in 2 days. Wheel Horse Parts and More... axle seals (2) WH# 100863 or SKF 9615 brake and input shafts (1 each) WH# 100441 or SKF 7410 gasket WH# 3912 shifter boot (1) WH# 3577 Go on Lowell's web site and you can check prices. NAPA also carries the seals. TORO carries the gasket and boot. Lowell has it all. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
taubensee@sbcglobal.net 6 #27 Posted July 4, 2023 Hey Steve, I've ordered the parts from Lowell. Thanks again. Been without power here for a few days so its set me back some. Used ice in my refrigerator just like the old days to keep the food cooled. Thanks again for your advice, and asistance. Turns out I have a neighbor who claims to know wheel horse transmissions, so I go that goin' for me. My dad purchased this machine in May of 1972. He passed it on to me and I really have had little problems with it until the boot failed and I didn't realize water was getting into the case. If it hadn't been for it being a sort of tribute to my dad to keep it going, I mght have bailed on it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,724 #28 Posted July 4, 2023 Never bail on a Wheel Horse, they are better then that battery bunny. (EveryReady) That horse will last longer then the earth has gas. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon Paulsen 290 #29 Posted July 4, 2023 5 hours ago, stevasaurus said: Never bail on a Wheel Horse, they are better then that battery bunny. (EveryReady) That horse will last longer then the earth has gas. Then there's always LP 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
taubensee@sbcglobal.net 6 #30 Posted July 15, 2023 Hi Steve, Frustration here. I can't remove the axle hubs. I tried heating the hub with a map torch. I rented a two prong gear puller and broke one of the hubs (though I think I can still use it as 4 lugs remain}. I really don't know where to go now. I have seen some shop made gear pullers on the website and I may be able to fashion something but I keep thinking it shouldn't be this hard. Turning to you for ideas.. Using PBBlaster too. Just about to give up and reassemble with only 2nd gear for mowing. Also, the hitch pivot pin is stuck and I am thinking I could just saw thru the case and pin as I don't really need a hitch for anything. So, how do I get these damn axle hubs off.? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,724 #31 Posted July 15, 2023 Those hubs and the hitch pin can be the toughest part of tearing a transmission apart. If you have an extra hub, you can get bolts to make a puller. Like this...top right. Even with a hub puller, it is no guarantee they will come of without breaking. My brother's 5091...in the end, I just cut them off and ordered two from A-Z. Also, just cut the hitch pin with a sawzall and drill and/or pound out. I Believe it is just 1/2" stock...get from ACE or TSC. Either cut slots for "C" clips or buy long enough to drill and use roll pins. If you broke the one on the brake drum side (left), you can still open the transmission, unbolt the differential housing and pull out the guts so you can then pop the "C" clip and get the right axle out with the hub on it. Then you can get hub pressed off without breaking and only buy one hub. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
taubensee@sbcglobal.net 6 #32 Posted July 15, 2023 I've fashioned a gear puller out of a high density polyethylene plastic that's 3/4" thick. Under load, its bending and I am reluctant to force it because I don't want to break the hub. Thought I might try letting it sit and periodically applying PBBlaster. I like the idea of the disaaembly and removing the c clip but I still can't get the broken hub off and I think I can still use it with 4 lugs instead of 5. Guess I'm just being cheap....could buy two news hubs. What's a good way to purposefully break the hub? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,724 #33 Posted July 15, 2023 (edited) Sent you a PM...call me. Great talking with you Mark. Edited July 15, 2023 by stevasaurus Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
taubensee@sbcglobal.net 6 #34 Posted July 26, 2023 Hey Steve, Just an update here. I've gotten the case open and cleaned up everything. I have ordered a couple of needle bearings and a new hub from A to Z. Watched your installation video on the 5085 and feel pretty confident that I can do this. The forks were really stuck in there but I got them out. Any tips on lining up the tranmission to the body might be helpful. The manual suggests some pilot bolts . Its gonna be a week before I get the bearings. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,724 #35 Posted July 26, 2023 On the pilot bolts, that is one of the best tools you can make for nothing. All you need to do, find two 3/8" bolts with good threads. The bolts need to be longer then the originals so you have something to grab to turn out. Cut off the heads and file off any burrs. When you go to put the trans back, thread the two bolts in "kitty-corner", balance the trans on a floor jack and guide into the bolt holes. Start the other two trans bolts and snug...remove the pilot bolts and add the other bolts...snug and tighten. I take it, it will shift now and the issue was rust ?? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
taubensee@sbcglobal.net 6 #36 Posted July 26, 2023 OK, that's good advice.....I haven't put it back together because I need those needle bearings but I assume that since the forks were so tight that must have been the issue. I'll be sure to turn the axle to make sure and mess with the shift before I attach it to the body. I have a computer in the garage and I'll have your video ready to go when I start. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
taubensee@sbcglobal.net 6 #37 Posted August 12, 2023 Steve, I mowed the grass today ! Thanks for the umpteenth time for all your help and advice. You were correct about the detent ball being in the bottom of the shaft but I still struggled with getting it to shift. And though I got neutral by redoing the balls I'm not sure how it all worked out because after putting it together I still do not have 1st gear, but I don't need it and am not about to tear it apart again. I do have some noise in the belt guard when pressing the pedal down but assume its just a small adjustment needed. Over $200 spent and I'd hate to know how many hours. At one point I thought a Vikings funeral would be a good idea for the Commando but it was a learning experience and now I have a new "career." 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,724 #38 Posted August 13, 2023 (edited) Great picture Mark !! Glad you are riding it again. Did you take any pictures of inside the trans as you put it together?? If you did, post them here and we can take a look. It may loosen up while using it now. Keep an eye on it. About the belt making noise...as you push the pedal down, you are placing some slack in the belt that is still turning as it lows to a stop. This could be kind of natural. Maybe the belt needs to be replace if it is old and starting to get shaggy. BTW, it was a pleasure working with you. Edited August 13, 2023 by stevasaurus 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites