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ebinmaine

Trailer tires and/or decking. What's your favorite, or least.

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ebinmaine

This past week I was in the right place at the right time and bought what appears to be a well built home shop made trailer. 

It's on a camper frame that the  PO believes is a late 80s model. 

 

Originally for 5 ATVs, it'll now be repurposed for our tractors.... etc.  

 

 

I don't know the empty weight. I'd figure 1000 lbs or more. 

It'll be built to haul 3500 lbs of cargo for now.  

 

What trailer tires do you like?

What should we avoid?

 

On the decking I'm thinking either:

White oak 1 x 8 or

2 x 8 PT. 

 

The white oak would be locally sourced Amish Mill cut. 

The PT would be New England sourced yellow pine. 

 

Either one would be treated next year after a year to season. 

Either one would be carefully chosen to avoid knots and weak spots. 

 

 

Thoughts comments questions suggestions??

 

 

 

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SylvanLakeWH

I have 2x8 PT on my 5x8 trailer. Solid as a rock after 12 years...

 

Goodyear Endurance Tires- very pleased.

 

:twocents-twocents:

 

 

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Kenneth R Cluley

Agree with Sylvan on tires and decking. Be sure whatever decking you use is"DRY" or will shrink and move after installed. Not sure a year is enough for milled lumber. Typically they recommend one year per inch of thickness to achieve 15% moisture. Those tires have a stronger sidewall and eliminate a lot of movement back and forth on trailer.

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ri702bill

Decking - once the as-bought deck is removed, do consider adding a central "backbone" to reinforce the tongue. That is the time to do the welding.... and the time to rough in new wiring - perhaps in EMT clamped to the frame?

How do you plan to fasten the wood to the frame?? Any thought as to be able to "take-up" the space between the head of the fastener and the wood as the wood dries further??

Not so much tires, but wheels. Are they all rust and dent free??

Edited by ri702bill
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CCW

I recycled some deck boards that a customer was trashing when they remodeled their deck.  Very strong for my 4x8 bed.

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ebinmaine
4 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

Decking - once the as-bought deck is removed, do consider adding a central "backbone" to reinforce the tongue. That is the time to do the welding....

True. 

I'll see what, if anything, the PO builder did. 

 

 

4 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

 

and the time to rough in new wiring - perhaps in EMT clamped to the frame?

 

I've read/heard good and bad on running conduit under a NON enclosed trailer. It's thought by some that the conduit is a dust and dirt catcher but I like the idea of the wiring harness being held in.  

 

 

4 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

How do you plan to fasten the wood to the frame??

 

Whatever is recommended/required by the wood manufacturer if it's PT. 

 

 

4 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

Any thought as to be able to "take-up" the space as the wood dries further??

 

Boards will be spaced evenly one side to the other.

Likely I'll aim for ⅛ or ¼ inch gaps. 

When the boards shrink they will not be moved. I'm fine with larger air ventilation between boards.  

 

 

4 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

Not so much tires, but wheels. Are they all rust and dent free??

 

ALL wheels will either be refinished or replaced.  

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ri702bill

And able to take up / tighten the fasteners more as the wood shrinks??

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ebinmaine
4 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

And able to take up / tighten the fasteners more as the wood shrinks??

Absolutely. I wouldn't build without that ability.  

 

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ri702bill
51 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

Decking - once the as-bought deck is removed, do consider adding a central "backbone" to reinforce the tongue. That is the time to do the welding....

Me, quoting me!! --- Also the time to loose the chinsy corner leveling jacks, if equipped. Do consider reinforcing the rear beam for ramp loading and adding diagonal rear corner frame bracing...

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ebinmaine
1 minute ago, ri702bill said:

Me, quoting me!! ---

 

That's fine!

I'll take all the info I can get.  

 

1 minute ago, ri702bill said:

Also the time to loose the chinsy corner leveling jacks, if equipped.

 

All gone already.  

 

1 minute ago, ri702bill said:

Do consider reinforcing the rear beam for ramp loading and adding diagonal rear corner frame bracing...

 

Interesting you'd bring that up. 

The PO said nearly the same thing. 

 

I knew before purchase that the  existing rear box bumper is rotted. 

That and at least a foot of rear frame will get chopped off, bumper replaced,  and reinforced.  

 

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ri702bill
14 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Interesting you'd bring that up. 

The PO said nearly the same thing. 

 

I knew before purchase that the  existing rear box bumper is rotted. 

That and at least a foot of rear frame will get chopped off, bumper replaced,  and reinforced.  

 

Yeah, they use the "diet steel" on those and it can rot rather easily.

Gives you an opportunity to also adjust the deck length , possibly, for optimum use of standard length wood (ie, 12 foot 0 inches vs 12 foot 9 inches where you have to buy 16 footers and have a lot of waste...) You need more than just a butt weld for the stub, possibly a heavier gauge plate - OR ANGLE, on the inside to span at least 6 inches either side of the joint...

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JPWH

1/2 PVC works well for wiring conduit. Use the gray for electrical it is sunlight resistant. Plug ends with duct seal (electrical) for easy access later.

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ri702bill
12 minutes ago, JPWH said:

Use the gray for electrical it is sunlight resistant.

Ha - if the underside of the trailer is in direct sunlight - he has a whole heap of trouble !! :lol:

Edited by ri702bill
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Handy Don
1 hour ago, JPWH said:

1/2 PVC works well for wiring conduit. Use the gray for electrical it is sunlight resistant. Plug ends with duct seal (electrical) for easy access later.

I use plastic corrugated split loom and zip tie-it to the frame where needed. Allows for flex and while moisture can get in, it can also get out.

 

Since you are doing a full re-wire, I’m sure you’ll do wired grounds.

You might consider wiring for backup lights, even if you won’t have them initially.

You might also, since will have a fused, 12v circuit through the 7-pin connector, consider adding wiring for a 12v marine-grade socket like one of these either at the tongue or tail (or both)? Handy if you need to run an inflator or other 12v device.

    Standard socket      image.png.e4f66e86c960660243ce90fa32fdf171.png

   Fancy socket with USB connections   image.png.b93ce65acb07c01130b37ddd140e2af1.png

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ebinmaine
40 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

might consider wiring for backup lights, even if you won’t have them initially.

 

Easy and inexpensive add-on. 

Possibly at front of the fenders to increase side visibility. 

 

 

40 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

You might also, since will have a fused, 12v circuit through the 7-pin connector,

 

consider adding wiring for a 12v marine-grade socket 

at the tongue AND tail 

 

Trina is pretty impressed with both these ideas. Very practical.  

 

 

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ri702bill
1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

Trina is pretty impressed with both these ideas. Very practical.  

That's Don for ya !!!!:ROTF: I've seen firsthand someone loading pulling a work skiff up onto the trailer by disconnecting the 7 way and plugging in his trailer electric winch to do the heavy work. Once loaded and secure, reconnect...

WOW - loose the salt water and replace the skiff with a barn find WH - same thing...!!:thumbs2:

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ebinmaine

Thoughts on hemlock rough cut for the deck boards?

 

Readily available and commonly used locally.  

 

 

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rmaynard

No one has mentioned brakes. On my trip to the big show I had 4 tractors, 2 decks, 1 grader blade, 4 ag tires, a cooler, a hand truck, and a hydro transmission all loaded on a 5 x 12 single axle trailer. The whole trip was on wet roads. Several times the trailer "pushed" my Tacoma beyond where it should have stopped. Yesterday I ordered trailer brakes. The trailer is only rated for 2300 pounds, but has a 3500 lb axle that is ready for brakes. 

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ebinmaine
10 minutes ago, rmaynard said:

Yesterday I ordered trailer brakes.

Excellent decision.  

 

I'll be addressing the brakes on this trailer as well.  

Hopefully it won't take much. They haven't been used in several years.   

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ri702bill

Funny, I did mention brakes earlier - both surge and electric and the pros & cons of both, Eric replied this trailer was equipped with electric brakes. Both seem to have been removed...
Bill

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ebinmaine
26 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

Funny, I did mention brakes earlier - both surge and electric and the pros & cons of both, Eric replied this trailer was equipped with electric brakes. Both seem to have been removed...
Bill

 

You are correct but in a different thread.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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ri702bill

:thumbs2:

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8ntruck

I don't see anything wrong with the rough cut hemlock.  Around here, it would probably be oak.

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wh500special

Hemlock never hurt anybody.  
 

Well, unless you count Socrates…😎
 

Steve

 

 

 

 

(yes, I realize it’s a different Hemlock but how often does a guy get to work in a Socrates joke?)

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oliver2-44

Consider welding a receiver hitch square tube to the front of the trailer above the floor. Then you can mount a winch on a piece of 2” tubing and use it on your tractor and your trailer

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