JimSraj 430 #1 Posted June 22, 2023 So the K301 in a 1267 that I rebuilt a couple years ago has been stalling while mowing. There are not a lot of hours on it since it was down for a transmission rebuild shortly after the engine was done. It’s only being used as a mower. I was mowing with it for about an hour or so when coming down a short, but fairly steep, hill it stalled as if it had run out of gas. Wouldn’t start up again. I left it sit for about an hour or so and it started right up and I finished mowing. About another half hour. I thought maybe some water had condensed in the tank and caused the stall. The tank has been kept full after mowing now to minimize that possibility. The fellow that I have mowing for me when I’m not there just told me the same thing happened to him (downhill but not at all steep). Left it sit for about 15-20 minutes and started up and ran to finish mowing. At least another half hour. The engine rebuild included a new (iSavetractors) fuel pump. Any ideas? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 9,761 #2 Posted June 22, 2023 The 1st easy thing to do is check that the tiny vent in your gas cap is open. If it is plugged, the pump pulling the gas out will create a vacuum to the point that the pump cannot overcome the vacuum to pull the gas out. The little mechanical diaphragm pumps do no have much "pull" or suction capability. They count on a good gravity flow to them so they can "push" the gas which they are good at. Also check/replace any inline fuel filter that is "before" the pump. When you rebuilt the tractor did you clean the tank and replace the valve at the bottom of the tank? Most valves at the bottom of the tank have a small fine screen going into the tank. If there is trash in the tank the flowing gas could be pulling the fine trash to plug the screen. When the mower shuts off the trash falls away from the screen and gas will flow again. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,635 #3 Posted June 22, 2023 @JimSraj agree with @oliver2-44 on possibilites , ever drop the fuel bowl ? for a debris check , lots of reference to this issue , seams like its a fuel line break down , black debris in bowl would verify that . have 2 filters on my 3 horses , one just after leaving tank , another closer to carb . ethenol based fuel will eat / break down rubber , use a clear vinyl fuel fuel line , I also like STA BIL fuel treatment in all my gas , no fuel line break down at all , would also , pull that fuel tank valve , replace it , use super lube oil lube on related gromets , makes it easy . my experience , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,345 #4 Posted June 22, 2023 It does not sound like a coil issue, but does not hurt to check. One of those inline spark checkers will tell you if the coil craps out when warm and works OK after cooling off awhile.... Had a bad one on a K161-T rope start a while back - ran like a bear cold - you could set your watch by it - 6 minutes in it dies with no spark. Let it sit a half hour and repeat. Bad coil - changed it, no more ignition issue. 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ineedanother 1,369 #5 Posted June 22, 2023 Maybe a long shot but check your float level. Down hill would lift the float more than level ground. Likely not enough to starve it but worth looking at since you should probably check the bowl for debris anyway. 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JimSraj 430 #6 Posted June 25, 2023 First off I want to thank everyone who has offered ideas on things to look into. It would be awesome to find out that the cap vent is filled with schmegma (that’s a technical term). I did replace the shut off valve and cleaned the tank when I resurrected the tractor. Also, installed 2 fuel filters. Neither looks bad and it’s had nothing but ethanol free fuel since then. A new coil was also installed when rebuilt. The float level is an interesting idea and I’ll definitely check it out. Guess any of the new parts could be bad so worth going back over it all when I get back to my camp. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JimSraj 430 #7 Posted July 31, 2023 Just back from WV camp today. While there, I mowed for about a half an hour with the tractor before it stalled. I touched the coil and it was extremely hot. Left it set and cool and it started right up. I figured the coil was the culprit. Contacted Kohler and found out the price would be $102. I got the part number and checked at the local NAPA but they couldn’t source it so I ended up getting what I was told was a match to the part number at Auto Zone. I put it on and fired it up. Seemed great for about 10 minutes. Then I noticed I was loosing power and it shut down with a couple of pops. The new coil was hot as H. I let it cool and put the old coil back on but now it will not start. A y suggestions? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,158 #8 Posted July 31, 2023 I would make sure that wire to the points is not grounding anywhere. This would simulate the points being closed with the key on. Could also be a bad insulator on the points themselves. If you want to try another new coil, tell the 's at NAPA it's a IC14 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
richmondred01 2,237 #9 Posted July 31, 2023 I know many have bought stuff from Norman at I save tractors. (So no offense I’m just being honest from my perspective) I have found he’s parts to be sub par. Many customers have brought me normans rods and pistons that they want me to install that were already not in spec. (Out by .002-.004) That’s ok we can bore the cylinder and grind the crank to fit properly but to be wrong out of the box is disgraceful. Frankly from what I’ve seen I wont buy his parts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gasaholic 224 #10 Posted July 31, 2023 9 hours ago, JimSraj said: Just back from WV camp today. While there, I mowed for about a half an hour with the tractor before it stalled. I touched the coil and it was extremely hot. Left it set and cool and it started right up. I figured the coil was the culprit. Contacted Kohler and found out the price would be $102. I got the part number and checked at the local NAPA but they couldn’t source it so I ended up getting what I was told was a match to the part number at Auto Zone. I put it on and fired it up. Seemed great for about 10 minutes. Then I noticed I was loosing power and it shut down with a couple of pops. The new coil was hot as H. I let it cool and put the old coil back on but now it will not start. A y suggestions? Reason auto coils are like that , they often need a ballast resistor in power supply, more so with single cylinder. OEM Kohler's have that built in to them. They'll otherwise get hot due to the high current flowing through them (hence the ballast resistor) - Remember your electrical system voltage can reach 14.8V due to charging system running voltage... and they run best at a steady 12v. I'd imagine if you got an automotive coil and went and got an old ford ballast resistor, and wired it in properly, you would have less of a heat issue there. (If you come across a OEM Kohler coil, check the resistance of the coil across terminals, then compare to Automotive coil. I can't for the life of me recall what the OEM Kohler coil resistance value was..) From Autozone: The resistor helps prolong the lifespan of the ignition components. Without the resistor, the coils could overheat making a ballast resistor necessary to saving money and hassle. Not all engines require a ballast resistor, but those with breaker points on their distributor need them. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JimSraj 430 #11 Posted July 31, 2023 Well now discovered the points are toast. One side of the contacts is completely burned away. Also found that the Autozone coil has more resistance across the terminals than the iSavetractors coil per the fellow in the hollow who is working on it for me, since I had to comeback to PA. Do I need to go back to Kohler for OEM coil and points or Anyone have a source for good aftermarket parts? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,237 #12 Posted July 31, 2023 27 minutes ago, JimSraj said: Well now discovered the points are toast. One side of the contacts is completely burned away. Also found that the Autozone coil has more resistance across the terminals than the iSavetractors coil per the fellow in the hollow who is working on it for me, since I had to comeback to PA. Do I need to go back to Kohler for OEM coil and points or Anyone have a source for good aftermarket parts? I’ve used aftermarket points and OEM. Last set was Stens I got from AtoZ at the Big Show. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,158 #13 Posted July 31, 2023 Napa Prime line SME 7-01029 points SME 7-01338 condenser Napa Echlin IC14 coil Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JimSraj 430 #14 Posted August 1, 2023 Ok thanks guys. Question still in my mind is what caused this to happen? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites