Asking for HELP. I need it.

[SylvanLakeWH 26,105]

Is the plug wet after trying to start? I am thinking pump is "working" enough to spurt when line disconnected from carb but not enough to force through carb?

 

As i mentioned before my C105 hated to start until i put marine bulb in line. Two pumps and it fires in a second...

 

Just a thought...

[D_Mac 8,852]

Only other thing I can say is that when we remove the carb, there gas in the carburetor so I'm assuming the pump is doing its job. Could be wrong.

[Ed Kennell 39,075]

Have you tried John's idea yet?   Removing the muffler.

[squonk 41,610]

Remove the spark plug and clean it. Put it back in and try to start it WITHOUT any starting fluid or spraying carb cleaner into carb. After a few min. of trying to start it remove plug and check it.

 

If it's dry, no gas in carb or gas not flowing thru jet. 

If it's oily, oil getting past rings/ guides and fouling plug

If it's wet with gas, weak spark, high float or gas is contaminated/ old ect. 

 

How fresh is the gas. I've had gas less than a month old turn to crap. Old metal gas can?

 

If you just bought the gas put some in a clear jar and let it sit. Gas can have water in it right out of the pump. Look for discoloration and separation.

Edited June 12, 2023 by squonk

[lynnmor 7,362]

I had a neighbor bring a chainsaw that he couldn't get started.  I looked it over and found spark, good compression and everything checked out.  Pulled and pulled, nothing.  Smelled the fuel and it was kerosene, he said no way but I dumped it and filled with my chainsaw fuel.  Started right up.  I poured his fuel on a stump and couldn't get it to light with a match.  Trust, but verify.

[SylvanLakeWH 26,105]

2 hours ago, D_Mac said:

I'm assuming the pump is doing its job.

 

I wouldn't...

 

[D_Mac 8,852]

Gas I just got . Ethanol free and treated with Stabilizer. Tried 2 spark plugs. Just ordered a fuel pump.

[RED-Z06 2,269]

There's a thick gasket on the block where the carb mounts, was the old gasket removed or left intact when the new carb went on?  Ive seen these wirh stacked gaskets, leaking air

[D_Mac 8,852]

Both the spacer and gasket brand new.

[ranger 1,768]

You could also try a temporary ‘gravity feed’ tank feeding straight to the carb, bypassing fuel lines, pump etc, to rule out everything between tank and carb?

[davem1111 2,045]

37 minutes ago, ranger said:

You could also try a temporary ‘gravity feed’ tank feeding straight to the carb, bypassing fuel lines, pump etc, to rule out everything between tank and carb?

 

Yeah, lots of us have done that, referring to it as an "IV", like they use in the hospital. I've used a large cow syringe with the plunger removed, or a small funnel. Just secure it somewhere above the carb. Which I always carefully do.  Er.... well, almost always. 

[D_Mac 8,852]

I'd love to try the IV to test the pump. Only problem is my friend is strictly by the book. Refuses to try and says " you know how dangerous that is?". I'm stuck doing things his way as it is in his garage and like I said 100 times... I'm no mechanic. New fuel pump on its way.

[Jon Paulsen 290]

I just read through this thread again. You have some good advice and things to check. A couple things come into my tiny brain. If you ever ride a big bore two stroke dirt bike with a leaky gasket between the carby and the jug, you'll get good at wheelies really fast. Pretty easy to check on a running engine, but in a no start situation, it would be trickier. But you could still try with your friend cranking it. Get something liquid and spray it around all the parts between the carby and the cylinder. If it runs wet, that would indicate an air leak. Carb cleaner works for this test. 

 

I'm thinking very far off timing is more likely. Like a flywheel slipped out of position. You could probably eyeball that by taking off the covers. The shop was probably not very careful reassembling stuff if working at a loss ($$$). Any chance they got the flywheel back on without a key? I know you had the head off, but I don't know if you have to pull the flywheel to get there. Maybe come up with a way to verify the spark zaps somewhere near TDC. I'm thinking get the plug out so you can see the piston or get your thumb on the hole, and run a spark plug tester while cranking it. Maybe someone can suggest a better or safer way to verify when she fires. Maybe a timing light. If you can come up with a pressure gauge you can get in the spark plug hole maybe that would work for testing. I dunno if your compression testing gauge would work if you hold the release open while testing, but easy enough to try before going through a lot of hoopla to get another gauge on it. 

 

I wonder if the ether (starting fluid) you used could fire in a no spark condition, or with timing way, way off. I wouldn't be surprised. I hope you can get this nailed down. It's such a nice looking machine.