eng to trans belt vib

[5151 11]

Hi folks, I usually lurk and find my way. Lost my local dealer, Jacks in Sarver Pa, so here I am.

I have a belt misbehaving.

Do you guys see anything I am missing?

 

312-H, 1000hrs

New drive belt 5/8x82 

New bushing on R Side idler shaft

Idler pulley good

No cracks in frame

Eng and trans mounts tight, 4 bolts each

PTO bearings checked and greased

Trans fluid new 10w30

PTO break set to 12 thou

[lynnmor 7,352]

Did it vibrate the same before you replaced the belt?  There are plenty of poor quality belts out there.

[5151 11]

Yes but that old hat bushing, or step bushing, was in two pieces.

The name on the new belt is True Blue.

 

Was not finding much info on the hydro model and wondering if it might want a different belt than the clutch model.

I may be overthinking that though.

[D_Mac 8,699]

I'm not knowledgeable on the material the v- belts are made of but I do know when I use a brand new belt that is black in color it jumps and vibrates. So I get the belt that is blue in color and it works fine.

Edited June 9, 2023 by D_Mac

[5151 11]

After third time in I think it is the idler pulley bearing. Older machines with low hours sat a lot. Thanks Lynn and Mac for replies.

[peter lena 8,716]

@5151  those original idler pulleys have an undersize bearing , also a very common binding , rough operation .  tractor supply has the same size / type  flat pulley , with a much larger bearing , and removable bearing side shields , for a clean out and re grease with a hi temp grease . you wiill have to get a 3/8 to 5/8 short bronze bushing to push in to that bearing , that will make it an exact fit , smooth / solid / quiet . would also lubricate all related linkage / connection points , make the rust run out . have that exact set up on my  horses , consistantly  reliable , pete

[5151 11]

Great info Peter thanks. Tried 2 TS and no luck. I'll try another town.

I have the bearing soaking but not real hopeful.

Smooth quiet and solid is what I'm aiming for, redid the deck and mule drive over the winter and now chasing down the rest.

 

Edit, bottom spring hookup seems wrong to me, just two nuts there. 

If there are IPLs of WH I would be thrilled to find them.

Edited June 11, 2023 by 5151

[5151 11]

Bearing repacked and back together. 

Runs much better. Now the spring is kissing the pulley. Grrr lol.

Is the wave washer and spring available?

[5151 11]

Well I found an OEM NOS idler pulley.

Bearings in old one seem on the way out.

 

Anyone know the name or PN for the spring that tensions the drive belt?

[peter lena 8,716]

@5151 https://www.google.com/search?q=312+idler+belt+spring&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS866US866&oq=312+idler+belt+spring&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIHCAE  . this help ?  also have made up 1/8" or 3/16"  round steel rod , to extend spring pull point , bend it into a LONGER  " S "  SHAPE . letting you get away from the problem area , don,t even think about adding that fix , with a heavier spring . looking right at it , pete

[5151 11]

I found it, 107938.

Thanks guys, I'm slow with this.

[peter lena 8,716]

@5151  just some of the stuff I  use , regularly make up an adaptor / enhancemant  , go to spot for better  function , have not mentioned also adding lubrication to improve function . this is not in the book ,  I won,t tell anybody if you go there , pete

 

[5151 11]

After all that it's better but still some jump on the idler arm.

In belt chart it calls for hb/sl x 81 1/2.

Supplier sold me 5/8 x 82.

 

Do you guys think a 1/2 inch matters?

[peter lena 8,716]

@5151  aerosol lubricate . make the rust run out of all related , connection areas , then red grease spray , thoas short bronze thru bushings , love aerosol red grease . sounds like a movement point drag / hang up , pete

[Sailman 1,294]

19 hours ago, 5151 said:

After all that it's better but still some jump on the idler arm.

In belt chart it calls for hb/sl x 81 1/2.

Supplier sold me 5/8 x 82.

 

Do you guys think a 1/2 inch matters?

 

Don't know if this helps or not. I have a GT 14. I purchased a belt from tractor supply that appeared to be correct. Had issues with tractor not pulling well under load so I replaced the idler spring. Still had issues so I replaced with OEM belt and it has worked much better since.

[5151 11]

I do not think the 81 1/2" belt is the answer. Not enough clearance from top of idler pulley to frame.

With belt on, I bounce the belt by hand, I hear / feel noise from trans shaft area, Yikes.

Anyone do house calls? lol

Going to step away for the moment.

[wallfish 17,078]

Check the pulley grooves. Both on the engine and the trans/pump. Make sure they're smooth and nothing is stuck on them or chipped or anything. 

Watch the trans/pump pulley from behind as it's spinning to see if there is any wobble to it. Not common but possible.

A stronger spring for the idler won't hurt anything at all but it will help with pulling the "memory" out of a new belt. New belts tend to keep that bend in them from the packaging for little bit until they're worked.

[5151 11]

Thanks Wallfish and everyone.

I did check the pulleys twice hoping to find something wedged in, nothing.

That's a good tip sighting it from behind while running.

Spring is new oem.

Good point about belt memory.

Maybe I'm too fussy.

 

Might get after it tomorrow. Thought of removing the plastic fan and clean and inspect.