WH Gardening-FARMERIK

[FARMERIK 23]

I have three WH's for cultivating our large garden for the past 20+ years. This one has a stuck rear hitch pivot pin but is fine for the belly mount cultivator which allows me to get very close to plants. My soil is very rocky so I need spring tines which don't fit under the tractor. I also needed taller front tires so I added hubs and bolted on three rib tires on 12 inch rims. To get the middle of the paths I use rear cultivators on my other WH tractors.-FARMERIK in CT

[ebinmaine 70,725]

Nice job on making the machine into the function you need.  

[Pullstart 64,531]

Awesome garden!  If that’s a manual tractor, which I believe it is, it really needs a belt guard for adequate clutch provisions.  If it’s grinding, it’s doing irreversible damage 

[FARMERIK 23]

Yes it should have a belt guard. The idler pulley/clutch bearing is shot so I am waiting for the one I ordered to arrive. Lock nut on the back of the arm is stuck too. I'll try again and hope I don't have to remove that assembly to get an impact tool on it. - FARMERIK

[Pullstart 64,531]

What model is that one?

[FARMERIK 23]

I bought it as a rolling chassis and it  seems to be a Frankinstein mixture of left over parts. The hood says it is a 6 speed and the Unidrive has the extension of the filler and appears to be the limited slip 5060. The dash stand number is for a 3 speed if I remember correctly. I guess I rescued it. - FARMERIK

[ebinmaine 70,725]

7 hours ago, Pullstart said:

What model is that one?

Uhhh Red Rider ... That's a 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 .....

 

 

7 hours ago, FARMERIK said:

Frankinstein mixture

Nicely done.  

 

What's the engine?

 

Edited June 10, 2023 by ebinmaine

[FARMERIK 23]

I have no idea what the original engine was which would help ID the tractor model. When I repowered 20+ years ago I used B&S engines and when they got tired I went to Honda GC engines. Two cultivator WH's  have the GC 160 and the one I moldboard plow with has a GC 190. I know they sound like they are too small, but they pull just fine and I only use full throttle with the 10 inch moldboard plow. The 8 inch is fine in our rock embedded clay soil with the 5 hp GC160. I thought I might need 6 hp so I bought one GC-190.

 

From what I found in the Unidrive manual in the files here the 5060 was used -

1967 - 867,1067,1267

1968 - Raider 9, 10,& 12

After 1974 the rear lift cable set up changed I believe and the belly mount cultivators were different. Mine is from about 1967 until 1974 and fits fine.

Maybe some one here can narrow it down closer and I'd be interested, but for my garden work it doesn't really matter.

 

I recently looked at a C-140 but it is too wide for between row cultivating. Not only are the rear tires wider across, but I 'think' the running boards are wider too. I like the belly mount cultivator tool bar which is 36 inches being  a few inches wider than the running boards to accommodate the spring tooth tines for very close to crop work. -FARMERIK

[ebinmaine 70,725]

11 minutes ago, FARMERIK said:

I know they sound like they are too small, but they pull just fine and I only use full throttle

 

I wouldn't figure that at all. 

There's plenty of torque for pushing and pulling in a little engine like that. 

All three of my Other Half, Trina's tractors are 8 HP engines. 1 Briggs and 2 Kohler. 

She's never been close to underpowered.  

 

13 minutes ago, FARMERIK said:

it is too wide for between row cultivating. Not only are the rear tires wider across, but I 'think' the running boards are wider too

 

Tires could be changed easy enough of course and the running boards I can't say for sure... I think they're the same but...

What would keep me in the older models is the Limited Slip Differential transmission. 

After 1973 when the C Series emerged there was no Limited Slip.  

The 8 speed 8 pinion diffs are likely the strongest made for a Wheelhorse but the 10 pinion transmissions are fantastic workers with the additional traction of both wheels doing the driving.  

 

[Treepep 631]

2 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Uhhh Red Rider ... That's a 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 .....

 

 

Nicely done.  

 

What's the engine?

 

Uh thats a negatory on the cost of this here vehicle!  Why one could say...

 

very nice,  I pull two wheel tractor implements for row work for now.  It works great but I have to exit the machine to lift.  Luckily its just a few passes now.  Hopefully I can expand my garden in the future and modify or find more equipment.  Nice rig! 

[FARMERIK 23]

It took me years to find most of my cultivator parts to cobble together. You may well know all about this, but some reader of this post may not.  Wheel Horse calls one type of rear liftable hitch a Clevis which Brinley and Agrifab and most tractor mfgs. call a sleeve hitch. The other they called a slot hitch which takes a piece of flat stock. That one is much easier to make a cultivator frame for by drilling cross pieces of flat stock or angle iron. I have some large spring style cultivators sold for use with ATV's. For those I found adapters to fit the clevis or sleeve hitches. You don't need the field cultivators, but they save time preparing the garden before planting and working in the old plants and cover crops in the fall.

[ebinmaine 70,725]

10 hours ago, FARMERIK said:

You may well know all about this, but some reader of this post may not.  Wheel Horse calls one type of rear liftable hitch a Clevis which Brinley and Agrifab and most tractor mfgs. call a sleeve hitch. The other they called a slot hitch which takes a piece of flat stock

Good clarification for anyone who reads this later. 

That was a source of confusion for me.  

 

 

10 hours ago, FARMERIK said:

 

 

 

 

LOTS of cool stuff and treasures in that shed!!

 

 

10 hours ago, FARMERIK said:

 

 

 

 

100% Beast this one. The owner/home shop build touches are excellent.  

 

I'd be interested to see more details.  

 

 

[FARMERIK 23]

Those two WH's had taller rear fenders made to accommodate bigger rear tires for cultivating  both sides of a row in one pass.  The largest tires were 27-8.50X15 on the long frame with low range. The short frame 500 Special can take 25-7.50X14. The tallest tires were a bit tippy on my garden slope so they ended up on a wider tractor. Unfortunately the welder/fabricator who did that work moved away. Taller front tires work for the belly mount cultivator too. So no plans to modify the 5060 tractor. I just fit BMI go kart hubs to the front so I could bolt on taller tires. The much lighter engines, especially with heavy attachments on the back, do require added weights. You can see the stack in front of the engine on the 8 speed. The 500 Special has weight under the frame in front of the transmission to keep the center of gravity low, so it can't use the belly mount cultivator. With rear wheels which are not off set [high speed trailer 12X4] the width outside the rear tires is only about 26 inches wide. That allows it to fit between rows when they have grown too high to drive over. It can do standing corn for example. -FARMERIK

[ebinmaine 70,725]

5 hours ago, FARMERIK said:

Taller front tires

I run bigger tire front and rear but for very different reasons from you.  

We don't use a tractor for gardening, yet. 

Ours are built for pulling heavy stuff out of the forest and around the acreage.  

 

Here's my 1974 C160-8. Cinnamon Horse. 

It's main purpose in life is to drag aggregate or firewood ass needed. 

The big bracket on the front is for a Mackissic chipper shredder.  

While that's not on I keep the big weight set out there. 

 

The tires are old stock Carlisle AGs I believe 6/12 size.  22" diameter.  

The hubs are standard 2,000 lb 1" trailer stubs. 5 x 4.5 bolt pattern. The wheels are something a PO picked up. Likely trailer wheels. 

 

 

[FARMERIK 23]

THAT certainly looks like it should pull very well!  What engine does it have? FARMERIK