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Dreamcatcher

Wheel Horse Classic or C-120

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Dreamcatcher

I have an opportunity to purchase another WH.  I've found two comparably priced tractors; Wheel Horse Classic and C-120.  My question is loaded but would like your input on reasons why to go with one over the other.  Also if you have any 'beware' advice, i'd like that also.

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ebinmaine

You have pictures of either one or more information about the Classic model?

 

I'm pretty biased towards the seventies so I'm going to tell you to go with the c-120 given that they are in comparable condition.

Rugged as a stone. Simple wiring. Long lasting.

 

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Dreamcatcher
28 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

You have pictures of either one or more information about the Classic model?

 

I'm pretty biased towards the seventies so I'm going to tell you to go with the c-120 given that they are in comparable condition.

Rugged as a stone. Simple wiring. Long lasting.

 

 

The classic is the 8 speed. The C-120 has been eliminated out of the running but I've discovered a working nice condition C-101.

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Pullstart

I would go for the older, if all things compared were similar.  Less electrical to do the same job.  

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SPINJIM

The C series is durable and simple to work on.  Its Kohler K engine is durable, but it has points and a coil to maintain.  The Classic probably has the Kohler Magnum engine with magneto ignition and no points.   I prefer the Magnum engine, but I also have a C-120, and just have to clean and adjust the points occasionally.  If you're a 'collector', then the C-101.   If you want it for mowing, then the Classic.   Depends on how you're going to use it, the condition of the tractors, and personal preference.    Both good tractors.  

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ebinmaine
41 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

safety switches

Richard, just out of curiosity, what safeties will the newer one have that the late seventies didn't? Seat switch?

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953 nut

Correct me if I'm wrong but the PTO/Seat interlock was what I was referring to. It is so easy to get off the seat and have the mower sitting there turning at full speed and move an obstacle out of the way. Rotating blades and moving belts can cause a lot of damage if you aren't careful. They had the PTO switch that prevented starting the engine with the PTO on but I don't think they had a seat/PTO safety to stop the engine if the operator leaves the seat.

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ebinmaine
2 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

Correct me if I'm wrong but the PTO/Seat interlock was what I was referring to. It is so easy to get off the seat and have the mower sitting there turning at full speed and move an obstacle out of the way. Rotating blades and moving belts can cause a lot of damage if you aren't careful. They had the PTO switch that prevented starting the engine with the PTO on but I don't think they had a seat/PTO safety to stop the engine if the operator leaves the seat.

 

 

That's what I was thinking too but I don't have any newer models to compare.

 

Definitely a very good point.

 

As mentioned above a magnum would give good convenience but safety is absolutely paramount especially around people unfamiliar with the machine or young children.

 

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SylvanLakeWH
1 hour ago, 953 nut said:

having your children operate it

 

Key point for me. Full floor boards keep them little feet (and big feet) off the ground and away from spinning rear tires... :handgestures-thumbupright:

 

All mine have full floorboards or it's a tub to sit in... I'd put boards on the old ones if kids are around... :twocents-twocents:

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Dreamcatcher

Thanks to all that have given their feedback.  I've never cleaned and adjusted points before.  What all is involved and how often should it be done?

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8ntruck

My 1973 14-8 has a switch on the PTO to prevent it from being started while engaged, but no switch on the seat to shut the engine down if the operator leaves the seat with the PTO engaged.

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ebinmaine
2 hours ago, Dreamcatcher said:

Thanks to all that have given their feedback.  I've never cleaned and adjusted points before.  What all is involved and how often should it be done?

It's easy enough. 

You'd need an appropriate screwdriver, points file, and a feeler gauge around  .018 to .022 

I've checked and cleaned a few sets but only adjusted one set in at least a dozen engines.  

 

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8ntruck
29 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

It's easy enough. 

You'd need an appropriate screwdriver, points file, and a feeler gauge around  .018 to .022 

I've checked and cleaned a few sets but only adjusted one set in at least a dozen engines.  

 

Might want to start by dragging a folded dollar bill through the closed points a few times to burnish them, provided the points look to be in decent condition, before adjusting them.

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953 nut
6 hours ago, Dreamcatcher said:

I've never cleaned and adjusted points before.  What all is involved and how often should it be done?

To clean your ignition points you can run a doller bill or piece of a brown paper bag between the points contacts while they are closed, If they need more than that you should replace them.

To set the points just follow this video from I Save Tractors.

 

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Dreamcatcher

How does the C175 differ from say a 4 series or 3 series A?

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squonk

C175 Twin cylinder and flat hood. I prefer the C-120. Less sheet metal in the way and easier to work on.

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oliver2-44

The 175 is a C series and has less electrical safety switches than a 3,4,5 series. It has a Kohler twin engine. There were some lube problems with that Kohler series 1 engine when used on hilly or sloped ground. The series 2 engine has an improved pressure lube system and is a good engine. Someone here can give the Kohler serial number when the series 2 started 

Edited by oliver2-44

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1940willys

C120!

 

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WHX??

Not sorry Willys...:text-worthless:

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Tonytoro416

Recently got a b-100 going. Believe it’s a 74 or so.  It has seat switch safety pto safety and one for the Hydrostat also 

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