Introducing the Stig Special

[Ole MN 11]

:thumbs: Once again as I waited for the next update, and the wait was worth it.

And now i will have to wait again for the next update. Thanks once again.

[hounddoghundzsa 7]

I'll take one!

[dgjks6 6]

As I was reading you description of "how to get a hub off - step by step" I laughed so hard I was almost crying. Glad you got it licked.

Now I have a short attention span and sometimes just look at pictures - so I have a question. Is this going to be a hydro or manual? I see pics of an 8 speed, but also pics of hydraulic stuff. Sorry if its a stupid question.

[Kilroy 0]

I am on the edge of my seat every time there is an update on this machine. Good work and good luck!

Piddle :wh:

[Stigian 1,234]

Once again as I waited for the next update, and the wait was worth it.

And now i will have to wait again for the next update. Thanks once again.

Glad it was worth the wait Brad, the next update is here so you didn't have too long to wait again

I'll take one!

You don't know how much I'd charge for one Scott..

Also the waiting time might be a bit long, it's almost 2 years in the making so far

As I was reading you description of "how to get a hub off - step by step" I laughed so hard I was almost crying. Glad you got it licked.

Now I have a short attention span and sometimes just look at pictures - so I have a question. Is this going to be a hydro or manual? I see pics of an 8 speed, but also pics of hydraulic stuff. Sorry if its a stupid question.

It's always good to know I've made someone laugh, it means I've made the world a slightly happier place

It's going to be a hydro, the manual trans will be coming off when I take the outriggers off next..

I am on the edge of my seat every time there is an update on this machine. Good work and good luck!

Kilroy.. The bottle of Piddle came from the Dorset Piddle Brewery, a very nice pint of p**s it was too

Not much of an update this time, but progress has been made.

More chassis welding has been happening, but as you have seen photo's of seam welding before have a photo of what I stand on to reach where needs welding

But a large part of the day was spent on my knees with the small grinder cutting through that big steel slab.

The chances of the cut on both sides of the slab lining up were quite slim, but close enough to break with a lot of bending

Ta-daa.. Job done at last.

Not one to hang about, back to cutting the new smaller steel slab but this time the easy way.

A little trim and I now have lathe work to do again, machining six more bearing blocks..

Oh well, it will give me something to do while waiting for the welder to cool down

[wheeledhorseman 579]

Hi Ian

I finally tracked down the Stig Special on Red Square - there's only one word that comes to mind having read the thread - AWESOME!

I don't think I'll ever attempt anything on quite this scale but after having had to work on projects on my drive and in a single garage for the last 15 years or so I've finally got a workshop that I'm beginning to kit out. You've certainly fixed in my mind some of the equipment I'll need and the skills I'll need to learn.

[Stigian 1,234]

I finally tracked down the Stig Special on Red Square - there's only one word that comes to mind having read the thread - AWESOME!

Andy

I don't think I'll ever attempt anything on quite this scale but after having had to work on projects on my drive and in a single garage for the last 15 years or so I've finally got a workshop that I'm beginning to kit out. You've certainly fixed in my mind some of the equipment I'll need and the skills I'll need to learn.

It's the first time I have built anything quite on this scale, you might say it's a bit of a learning curve

While on the subject of scale, I did a bit of measuring the other day to work out the size this beast is going to be..

When it is finished it will be 51 1/2 " wide and 75 1/2" long.. Height is any ones guess at this moment

Good to see you have got a workshop sorted, a handy place to have

Equipment wise is all down to what you want to restore/build. I couldn't of done this build without and ARC welder and a lathe, a pillar drill is quite handy as well.

I left the last update cutting metal, this time it's cleaning metal..

It's the one and only Garry wire brushing some anodes..

A little while later he was found trying to hide behind a plastic barrel!

Hhhmm... Anodes and a plastic barrel.. could that mean????

Yep, the E-tank is back in action

The first parts of this project to get the electrocution treatment were the brake rod and drive belt guide..

We also had a visit from a Borg Prototype

Back to more sensible matters or the project as it's known, having run out of welding that could be done on the top of the chassis it needed to be turned over for welding the underside.

Strip down time..

Outriggers off first.

The chassis stripped down to the bare bones!!

It looks a tad smaller now!

Pete has always looked at the world in a slightly different way

Back in the shack on the bench.. this time upside down..

[Stigian 1,234]

For the first time since the chassis work was started we had a chance to mock things up with all six wheels where they should go.

So not one to miss an opportunity, even with the chassis upside down, parts were plonked roughly in the right places

This one is the new wallpaper on my Workshack laptop, one glance provides so much inspiration

Currently keeping busy with lot's of this..

And plenty of this..

Not long now til the outriggers come off for the final holes to be made and access cut.

Then they can be bolted back on along with the hydro trans...

I might even remember to turn the chassis the right way up first :wh:

[neil 2,410]

Thats gonna be one cool machine Ian when thats finished,

hope you can get it outa the door. :thumbs:

[Stigian 1,234]

Getting it out the door will be easy, it's finding somewhere to keep it when it's finished that will be the problem... I need a bigger Workshack

Work on this project has been a bit slow since my last update, partly due to me being in lot's of physical pain at the mo (my body is wearing out early) but mostly due to what I thought were power cuts. It turned out that who ever did the rewire in this house didn't bother to check if he (or she) had connected the main neutral properly in the fuse box

The good news is with the electrics now fixed I can run my ARK welder until it's thermal trip trips instead of a fuse blowing somewhere, so welding is what I've mostly been doing

For now all the underside welding has been done and the welds given a coat of rust oxide primer to keep the red at bay.

Plenty of time has also been spent at the lathe making more bearing holder blocks.

The outriggers awaiting access panels and axle holes to be cut.

Since I took this photo one of the outriggers has been finished

And to finish this short update, a bit of rust and paint removal on a smaller scale.

I had heard that vinegar is good for rust removal, and it seemed a shame to poor picked egg vinegar down the drain...

As a drive belt guide has turned the clear vinegar into darker stuff I guess it's doing something. Will have a look later..

Today's plan is to bolt the hydro trans on the chassis, finish the outriggers and get them bolted on... Oh.. And maybe a bit more time spent at the lathe :disgust:

[sorekiwi 761]

And to finish this short update, a bit of rust and paint removal on a smaller scale.

I had heard that vinegar is good for rust removal, and it seemed a shame to poor picked egg vinegar down the drain...

As a drive belt guide has turned the clear vinegar into darker stuff I guess it's doing something. Will have a look later..

Hey Ian, the tractor is looking great!

Vinegar works really well at removing the plating from nuts and bolts that you intend on welding onto something as well.

[Stigian 1,234]

Hey Ian, the tractor is looking great!

Vinegar works really well at removing the plating from nuts and bolts that you intend on welding onto something as well.

Thanks Mike, it will look even better once it's finished

That's a handy tip about vinegar removing plating, one to remember

Well, today didn't go quite as planned, but as Meatloaf would say, "two out of three ain't bad".

The first job of the day (after a coffee and a smoke to decide what was the first job of the day of course) was to move the hydro trans from the bench to the build bench.

A nice thick slab of wood a few wood screws helped as the trans is far to heavy to pick up.

I knew that bolting a heavy trans to a heavy chassis was going to be er.. interesting so the chassis was placed on the outriggers to make it easy to slide.

See, it slides easy

Getting the trans to the same height was fun, that large hydro pump on top makes it very unstable!

Anyone else got a set of these small bendy ratchet 's?

They are great tools for getting into spaces that even a sawn off wrench has problems with

With the trans now bolted up to the chassis, one of those "nervous moments" was about to happen.. i.e checking to see if the wider wheel hubs and outriggers still bolted on.

But first I had to deal with this "pain in the 'orse" key stuck in the axle.

I should of known it would be a pain after the fight the wheel hubs gave!

[Stigian 1,234]

With that blasted key out and a better one found it was time to start bolting bits on.

One extended wheel hub, a brake disc and.... dum dum dummm a wheel

The moment of truth, the outrigger and bearing block bolted up just fine.

I was a bit worried that the hydro trans would have different dimensions from the manual trans. As it turned out the only difference between the two was the amount of axle sticking out of the casing.

The hydro has an inch less axle showing each side, but as luck would have it that didn't cause any problems

Plenty of space on the outer bearings to get the grease gun in and maybe even an inch wider tires!

The elation of knowing the hubs and outriggers bolted back on was only slightly dampened when I noticed my "cut and shut job" on the Raider 10 and C-175 main body bit (what is that called ) was not quite right. The red bit on the trans should be the same height if not slightly below the er.. body bit!

Me thinks a bit more work is needed here!

Two out of three ain't bad... bolting the trans on the chassis was one..

The other was.... More lathe work

Four bearing blocks with two faces cut and one with four faces cut.

Somewhere I have a sixth block with all six faces cut.

And to finish this update it's another gratuitous "mock-up" photo.

This time the chassis was the right way up

[Anglo Traction 761]

Marvelous work Ian

Promise me you'll go Puncture Proof on the Tyres !. Trying to change one of those will be a challenge .

Stigian Posted on Today at 04:12 pm

The elation of knowing the hubs and outriggers bolted back on was only slightly dampened when I noticed my "cut and shut job" on the Raider 10 and C-175 main body bit (what is that called ) was not quite right.

.........Hoodstand ! :WRS:

[c175inMA 8]

My question is how are u going to steer this :hide:

[varosd 1,185]

Stig,

My only question is...will it be ready for the WH Show, here in Central Penn, in June!?!

I propose we take up a fund to have Stig and his machine come over to the states for a visit! bring some jellied eel! Cheers!

[puddlejumper 67]

Ian, You think there is enough bouyancy in those six tires for it to float? You could add a trolling motor transom mount THINGY on the Back for when things get deep. 2 plastic barrells strapped to the sides and go where ever you want.

It could be a little DINGY thingy.

MY luck I would get 3 flat tires on one side and tangle my boot laces on the brake pedal

[hm12460 53]

Ian, as a journeyman millwright, i admire your fabrication skills. Your welding and machining skills are very good and this is certainly a "one of a kind" project. Have you had any formal training in these areas?

[Stigian 1,234]

Marvelous work Ian whtractor/thumbsup.gif

Promise me you'll go Puncture Proof on the Tyres !. Trying to change one of those will be a challenge .

Your right Richard, fixing a puncture on any of the tires could be fun, but it was the only "workable" design i could come up with.

I'm thinking about rubber tracks again, they would help keep any nasty sharp bits out the tires..

Of course if I build steel tracks for it punctures would be a thing of the past

My question is how are u going to steer this

Hey Paul, if you have a look back on page 3 of this build you will find a kinda explanation.

Stig,

My only question is...will it be ready for the WH Show, here in Central Penn, in June!?! biggrin.gif

I propose we take up a fund to have Stig and his machine come over to the states for a visit! bring some jellied eel! Cheers!

It won't be finished by June Don, but it should be rolling on all six wheels by then

Jellied eel's!!

Not sure BA would be happy about me bringing the machine onto the plane as "hand luggage" as it's a bit heavy, maybe a The Antonov An-225 would do the trick

Ian, biggrin.gif You think there is enough bouyancy in those six tires for it to float? You could add a trolling motor transom mount THINGY on the Back for when things get deep. 2 plastic barrells strapped to the sides and go where ever you want. whtractor/omg.gif

It could be a little DINGY thingy.

Now there's a thought, a floating WH...

If I bought a rotavatar, changed the blades for small paddles, I could hang that out the back of the beast for propulsion.... Then again I could only go backwards

Dingy Thingy

Ian, as a journeyman millwright, i admire your fabrication skills. Your welding and machining skills are very good and this is certainly a "one of a kind" project. Have you had any formal training in these areas?

Hi Harold, I have to admit I had to google "journeyman millwright", sounds like a fun job, and also a hell of a compliment,

I've not had any formal training in lathe work or welding, just learning as I go along.

This project has certainly taught me a thing or two about how to do things and how not to do things :beer:

[Stigian 1,234]

Now the Q&A's are sorted I'd better get on with the build.

Since the last update most of my time has been spent on the lathe getting the latest batch of bearing blocks all the same size. The current count is 2 with all six sides faced off, and 4 with four sides done.

I won't bore you all with more photo's of the same stuff.....

Instead have a photo of the greatest way to remove rust and paint off small bit's of steel..

Lady's and gentlemen, I present to you.. Pandora Pickled egg juice.

As you can see from the belt guide sitting on top it certainly does the job

Next for the vinegar treatment is the parking brake bit's, too big to fit in the jar..

So into the "Stig vinegar bath they go

And onto matters of more metal and less liquid.. Or the hood stand

A small reminder for you here, when I did the "cut and shut" job using parts from both Raider 10 and C-175, I did not take into account the Raider part being lower than the C-175.. The red bit on the trans behind the shifter rod should be the same height or slightly lower than the nice shiny steel.

Time to sort it out, and I fancied a break from standing in front of the lathe

Out came the masking tape for marking out the cut line.

Chop chop, the tops have gone!

A quick rummage through the "might come in handy one day" pile of metal produced the top parts of the C-175 hood stand that had been cut off.

The said parts tack welded on.

If you squint really really hard, your eye's will start watering.. But once the tears are wiped away you can just about make out the cut lines marked on the top.

Jumping forward a couple of steps (because I forgot to take photo's ), the cut lines have been cut and the Raider top flange thingys welded back on.

Would you look at that, the red bit on the trans and the shifter rod are the right height

Feeling on a bit of a roll now, the grinder came out again.

Bit of a cut here..

And another couple of cuts here..

And the shifter lever now fits

Not that it's needed at this stage in the build, but I thought I'd dig the C-175's "shifter lever cover thingy" out of the parts pile to have a quick look.

As you can see all of the screws that held it down needed a talking too with the grinder!

I can't decide weather to repair it and cut it down to fit or just to use it as a template for making a new panel.... Hhhmm.. polished ally would look quite nice

But that's a job for another day.

That's all for this time folks. Thank you all for the great comments and words of encouragement, they make this build very worthwhile :beer:

[mr.pipes 4]

I can't decide weather to repair it and cut it down to fit or just to use it as a template for making a new panel.... Hhhmm.. polished ally would look quite nice

I like the polished Aluminium idea.

[chris11 184]

Im waiting to see how your going to make it RIGHT HAND DRIVE......... Keep up the great work.

[Duff 206]

Im waiting to see how your going to make it RIGHT HAND DRIVE......... Keep up the great work.

Duff :WRS:

[Stigian 1,234]

I like the polished Aluminium idea.

Yeah me too Just looking at the photo I'm not sure how the standard decals would look.. Now if the black part of the decals was clear....

I keep having thoughts about polishing up the ally hood stand/dash thingy...

That's your fault Richard

Im waiting to see how your going to make it RIGHT HAND DRIVE......... whtractor/yankchain[1].gif Keep up the great work.

Maybe if I put a wider seat on it, you could sit either side..

Then again, maybe not

Bit of a mixed update this time chap's, lot's of jumping from one part to another, then back to the first part via a third part kinda thing

After all the work on the hood stand/big metal bit between the legs, I thought I should check if a fender pan thingy still bolted on.. It did

A quick jump to the lathe and we have six bearing blocks all the same size and shape.

Back to the hood stand and time to add the bit of missing metal.

By the way the bent out flange thingy will be cut off and welded back inside.

It will look much tidier than it does now.

Back to the scrap pile.. Part of the remains of the Raider hood stand is just the right width with just the right bend

Almost there, just need a slight trim.

That looks better, when the bent bit is cut off the whole thing will sit a little better on the chassis.

Jumping forward quite a bit I have been thinking about the front and middle axles.

To fit the Wh wheel hubs on the axle would need a keyway cut in the middle of the axle!!

That would be quite a few days worth of lathe time..

Then there would still be the other three axles to do!!

So naturally the next thought was, can the cast wheel hubs be welded onto steel..

We didn't think so but just to check the last remaining part of one of the wheel hubs that I had to cut off the hydro trans was welded onto a steel bar.

One gentle belt with the club hammer and the answer was... No..

Welding cast is a bit of a no, no... But if I spin some hubs up from the dreaded slab of steel (Only the flange bit is needed) then they could be welded on the axles...

HHmmmm... A lot of work.. more ing is needed.

More lathe work, this time it's the first of the bearing blocks getting drilled out so the bolt hole jig can be bolted on.

Four out of six done, almost there.

The jig bolted on, the small drill bit is only for marking where the bolt holes have to be.

A block back on the lathe for boring out for a bearing.

A good reason to always wear goggles while working on a lathe!!!

That's it for now folks, more to come later as I need to give my knackered back a break from this chair....

But before I go... Here's how to heat a kettle during a power cut

[Stigian 1,234]

Today's update part 2.

Not so much jumping from one thing to another your be pleased to know

But maybe a tad of jumping forward... to bodywork.. I've been thinking about the fender pan

The fender pan will need widening by just over 1ft to get the outer edge's to match where they come to on a standard Wh..

This means a lot of slicing and dicing of the two fender pans which Fordsonmayjortom (Michael) kindly donated to the project..

And then I had a thought....

A quick rummage in the log store (don't tell my Wife that I'm using it to store 'orse parts ) and I had dug out the non original fender pan that had been fitted to the C-175 that donated quite a few parts.

My guess is it has been made to replace a busted plastic pan.

Ok, it's not the right shape, just flat.. But it is wider than the normal fender pan, and as someone has spent quite a bit of time cutting the holes and making them perfectly round it would be a shame not to use it

A view from the front.

The plan is to cut the width just inside the tires, and weld on the arches from the Wh fender pans.

That will give me the right width... the right length is a whole different matter

To have a break from doing lot's of this..

I got the grinder out to slice up some box.

It springs out of shape quite a bit when cut!!

Bits of box cut to size and clamped down.

And welded on...

Maybe not the best of welding that day but they will be tidied up along with most of the other welds

Thinking forward again, but not too far forward as I'm only "three bearing blocks to be bored out" away from starting on the front and middle axles.

Anyway my thinking was wheel hubs again.. They shouldn't take to long to turn up on the lathe from chunks of this nice thick steel

Certainly less time that it would take me to cut four keyways in the middle of the axles.

At the beginning of the first part of today's update I mentioned I was having thoughts on polishing up the hood stand/dash thingy..

Well I did try a small part to see what it would look like..

5 min's with some brasso and T-cut later it looked like this.

Hhhmm... it looks better in real life than in a photo..

And finally for this update a thought on the hood..

As the chassis has been extended by 9 3/4 inches the hood was would you believe exactly 9 3/4 inches to short..

But what would it look like if the hood was extended by the right amount..

Que the A-team music as a few sheets of A4 paper got stuck on then given a quick goat of rust oxide paint..

I quite like the look, but it will only work if I can find a big engine to fill the space..

Or maybe two 12hp engines.. hhmm