Don1977 604 #876 Posted December 1, 2012 I was think how you could have bent that axle. It had to be the roller chain climbing off the sprocket. Either the chain was loose or it was binding up to cause that. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #877 Posted December 2, 2012 Can you not turn the axle straight up and down in the vise, holding only the not bent part in the jaws, and then use something like a large pipe wrench to muscle the axle straight? I did try you idea, the trouble I found I can't get enough leverage on the axle as the wheel hub bit is in the way. It was worth a try though. Looks nasty Ian - I can't see how that could have bent - either the outboard bearing block must have moved or the transmission must have twisted. Either way there MUST have been some relative movement between that pair, so..... how is the other end of the rear pair? Shouldn't be too difficult to straighten - try a hydraulic pipe bender or a press with vee blocks supporting the straight bits. You'll need to get centre holes in each end of the axle so you can spin it in the lathe & use a DTI to check for straightness. Does the mandrel hole of your lathe accept the diameter of the axle? If not, it may be better to take it to someone with a bigger lathe so you can get centres put into it, then it'll be just trial & error with the press & then DTI. Cheer up - it's not that badly bent - have a look at this hydraulic rod from my back actor!! :- Ouch!! How did you manage to bend that rod like that?? It's not as nasty as it looks, it has taken a while to work out (answer not by me) how it got bent.. I did some more looking through my vid's and found it got bent at some point during during the making of Part 40!! So it's been bent at least a month, more likely 2!! Don't know why I've not noticed it before! The bearing block hadn't moved as all the bolts came out in the normal fashion and none were bent. This is one of the axles that are not directly connected to the trans.. This one.. The problem I think is the sprocket is quite a way from the bearing block which puts more strain on the axle than the others.. I need to check how the front axle the other side is looking as it's the same as the bent rear axle... Only not bent I hope.. Your mention of a hydraulic press got me thinking... Then I watched an old episode of Mirthbusters where they were using a hydraulic press to squash sawn off steel toe caped boots filled with modeling clay.. That got me thinking even more.. A quick look on Fleabay showed they were not as expensive as I had feared... So I may of just bought one.. There have been loads of times a press would of been handy so I look at is as a good investment.. The axle already has center holes in each end, so spinning it on the lathe to check how straight it is should be simple Looking Good Ian, Love those Ags and nice Video with the New Cam! Cheers ~Duke Thanks your Duke-ness.. :handgestures-thumbup: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #878 Posted December 2, 2012 I was think how you could have bent that axle. It had to be the roller chain climbing off the sprocket. Either the chain was loose or it was binding up to cause that. I think you have hit the nail on the head there Don. I think that a loose chain caused it by trying to jump of the sprocket... The latest additions to the chain tensioners makes sure that can't happen now.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pycoed 1 #879 Posted December 2, 2012 Right Ian, I didn't realise those axles were unsupported at the outboard side. I think you are right about the distance between the sprocket & the bearing being the issue here Looks like this axle & its opposite number will require a bearing mount nearer the plane of the load - perhaps a second bearing block tight to the sprocket & mounted using studs through the new block AND the existing one? I bent that digger rod purely due to operator error. i.e failure of the nut holding the controls! I was digging some really stoney stuff in a stream bed to pipe the stream & bashing away quite merrily (my tractor is only 45hp so not exactly an open-caste mine digger!) when I suddenly noticed the dipper wouldn't extend - I was amazed to see the reason why. Lesson learned the hard way about the power of hydraulics, eh? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #880 Posted December 4, 2012 You have got me thinking now Ed.. I'm wondering if there is enough space to move the bearing block inside the outrigger :scratchead: Best have a measure a bit later :D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Don1977 604 #881 Posted December 4, 2012 You have got me thinking now Ed.. I'm wondering if there is enough space to move the bearing block inside the outrigger :scratchead: Best have a measure a bit later I think that is a good idea, even if you had to modify the outrigger to make it work. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #882 Posted December 5, 2012 Well, I had a measure up today, the bearing block will not fit inside the outrigger without some mod's to the outrigger.. It could be done but then I had another thought... The middle two axles are the same dimensions as the one that bent... But they won't bend due to having two sprockets on the end of the axles giving loads of strength... So... All I need to do is get a couple more sprockets... One for the axle that had bent, and one for the axle that might bend but hasn't yet.. A very little update... The first real snow of the winter arrived today... It did settle for a while but was all gone by this afternoon. The axle is looking a lot straighter now.. It's not 100% there yet but it's getting close.. The bulk of the straightening was done by two people pulling hard on a long scaffold pole that was slipped over the end of the axle.. The more fine tweaking was done with this thing.. Before... Now.. It's not 100% straight yet but I'm happy with the way it is going.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Terry M-(Moderator) 2,175 #883 Posted December 5, 2012 Hello Ian! Things are looking good!!! Did some catching up on your progress and enjoyed your latest videos 40,41 & 42. Keep up the good work!! :handgestures-thumbupright: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bowtiebutler956 650 #884 Posted December 6, 2012 Glad to hear your getting the axle staightened up. I don't how I'd survive without my press. You don't need them very often, but when you need them, you need them! I'm sure it will be very handy in your shop. Now, I just have to get a lathe, so that I'm not ate up with jealousy every time I see all the awesome stuff you make with your! Matt :flags-texas: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mike67 33 #885 Posted December 8, 2012 I just spent a couple hours reading/watching this. Stig, you are an inspiration! And to think, I've been stressing about doing a narrow front conversion on a '73 8hp- 4 speed Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #886 Posted December 10, 2012 Hello Ian! Things are looking good!!! Did some catching up on your progress and enjoyed your latest videos 40,41 & 42. Keep up the good work!! Hi Terry, glad you like the ol beast, yep it's looking quite good now. Ta muchly for watching my vid's, there is now a Part 43 up on MooTube. Glad to hear your getting the axle staightened up. I don't how I'd survive without my press. You don't need them very often, but when you need them, you need them! I'm sure it will be very handy in your shop. Now, I just have to get a lathe, so that I'm not ate up with jealousy every time I see all the awesome stuff you make with your! Matt Hey Matt, lol I'm glad about the axle as well.. I didn't fancy having to make a new one but a bit of brute force and the press have done the job.. I'm sure there will be plenty of time the press will come in handy, there been soooo many time in the past when it would of come in very handy. Yep, get yourself a lathe... You won't regret it I just spent a couple hours reading/watching this. Stig, you are an inspiration! And to think, I've been stressing about doing a narrow front conversion on a '73 8hp- 4 speed Hey Mike, ta muchly for taking the time to read/watch this build. Happy you like it No point in getting stressed about your conversion, just take your time and it will fall into place.. At long last I finally got round to having a look at my dead compressor.. I can't remember who it was (but thank you) who said the starter capacitor had died, so that's what I had a look at... Ah.. There's two.. Any idea's which one it is I need to replace? It's been a tad cold around here of late, a nice chilly -6.5'c in the shack one morning!! It wasn't enough to freeze the E-tank right over though.. There's a wheel rim in there somewhere.. Which leads me nicely onto the next photo.. It come's with a slight confession!!! You see the tire isn't sitting quite right on the rim.. That's because a certain Muppet put the tube in the wrong way... And didn't realize until I took the pump off the valve and the valve instantly shot inside the tire!!! The question is... Do I sort the problem out now which would mean making a hole in a new tube, or.... Do I put the wheel on as it is (it's got the right amount of air in it), and hope a bit of sideways driving will pop the tire right on.. The tire could hold air for years without any problems.. At least the last three tires went on without any problems today.. And then the problems started again when I started to take the other side apart to swap the wheels.. I found a broken taper lock bush!!! Er.. Not sure how that could of happened!!! A little while later I was even more baffled.. Three out of four of the bushes on the right hand side had busted!! How these are breaking I have no idea, they are tight fit around the axle and the sprocket clams the bush ever tighter on the axle.. Confused?? Yep! An end of the day photo.. Five out of six wheels bolted on... For those that like the visual as well as written (ok, typed), here's build video Part 43.. Enjoy.. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anglo Traction 761 #887 Posted December 10, 2012 (edited) And then the problems started again when I started to take the other side apart to swap the wheels.. I found a broken taper lock bush!!! Er.. Not sure how that could of happened!!! A little while later I was even more baffled.. Three out of four of the bushes on the right hand side had busted!! How these are breaking I have no idea, they are tight fit around the axle and the sprocket clams the bush ever tighter on the axle.. Confused?? Yep! Hi Ian, Can't help with the Capacitors, apart from replacing both. Personally, I would pull the Tube out of that Tire and shove another in. Just looking back on page 29-30 to see a full frontal of the mounted sprocket and try to ascertain the reasons for snapping. Obviously breaking at the weakest point where there was no Grub Screw fitted. I also don't understand why they passed the Slitting Saw into the opposite side of the bore near that Grub Screw socket when manufactured. they didn't need to?. Clearly there is torsional movement between the sprocket and Bushing when under load and tightening even more onto the shaft. Did the bushing(s) initially slide onto the shaft(s) without any interference or resistance?. They have to be a perfect interference fit to prevent any stress on that weak point and I doubt if it would have made any difference if there was a Grub Screw there either. Regards Edited December 10, 2012 by Anglo Traction Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
COMMANDO6 20 #888 Posted December 11, 2012 Well you'd need a multi meter to test the capacitors, but chances are they are both bad and you should replace both. And if nothing else, I do like the look of it with the new tires. Hopefully they will work better. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #889 Posted December 14, 2012 Hi Ian, Can't help with the Capacitors, apart from replacing both. Personally, I would pull the Tube out of that Tire and shove another in. Just looking back on page 29-30 to see a full frontal of the mounted sprocket and try to ascertain the reasons for snapping. Obviously breaking at the weakest point where there was no Grub Screw fitted. I also don't understand why they passed the Slitting Saw into the opposite side of the bore near that Grub Screw socket when manufactured. they didn't need to?. Clearly there is torsional movement between the sprocket and Bushing when under load and tightening even more onto the shaft. Did the bushing(s) initially slide onto the shaft(s) without any interference or resistance?. They have to be a perfect interference fit to prevent any stress on that weak point and I doubt if it would have made any difference if there was a Grub Screw there either. Regards Morning Richard, yep I guess replacing both capacitors is the way to go, and I know your right about the tube.. It just pains me a bit to have to damage something new in order to get it out.. I'm still baffled about the bushes breaking, like you I can't work out why they put the extra cut in when it's not needed.. I guess they have their reasons but I'm stumped as to what they are! The bushes are a nice tight fit on the axles, a light bit of rubber mallet action is needed to get them on. The hole that broke (here's a photo of an unbroken bush and sprocket) is the one that is used for separating the bush, a grub screw never lives in there full time. Well you'd need a multi meter to test the capacitors, but chances are they are both bad and you should replace both. And if nothing else, I do like the look of it with the new tires. Hopefully they will work better. I do have a multimeter but I wouldn't know what to look for, so yep both will be replaced. The new tires should work a lot better with a lot more grip... They will also put more strain on the drive train, so we shall see what breaks next It's been a quiet few days in the shack, Pete dropped in Tuesday and did a bit more work on the axe heads he is making.. He also gave me a hand getting the right side outrigger bolted on. We also had bit bit of fun with some cardboard to try and get an idea on how the stretched fenders might look when they are done.. From the back.. And the front. I finished the day doing something painful.... Yep, making a hole in a new tube!! Wednesday dawned bloody cold.... A -8'C (17.6'F) sort of cold!! Cold enough to freeze water as I poured it into the kettle!! One the shack had warmed up a bit I fitted a used but good tube in the tire... The right way round this time So, I can now say that all six of the new tires have been fitted......... Again.. Some new taper bushes have been order along with a couple of new bearing to replace the two that got bent while trying to remove them I was feeling too rough to do anything in the shack yesterday, but feeling a bit more steady today, so I might venture out there this afternoon.. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,570 #890 Posted December 14, 2012 Great update Ian, getting there! Hope you can get to he bottom of the taper locks breaking... Re: compressor. Replace both caps with same value and voltage, a normal meter cannot measure the capacitance or esr. Your long cable run has inevitably increased the chance of early failure. Look forward to the snow vids!!! Mark Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
COMMANDO6 20 #891 Posted December 18, 2012 Oh no! 4 days without an update! Make any progress lately? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #892 Posted December 20, 2012 Great update Ian, getting there! Hope you can get to he bottom of the taper locks breaking... Re: compressor. Replace both caps with same value and voltage, a normal meter cannot measure the capacitance or esr. Your long cable run has inevitably increased the chance of early failure. Look forward to the snow vids!!! Mark Thanks Mark, fingers crossed the new taper lock bushes will be a bit stronger than the old.. They feel a bit heavier which may be a good sign. Sorting out the compressor cap will have to wait a little while until after silly season, lol yep I expect the long cable run hasn't helped.. The way the build is fighting me at the mo I'm not sure it will be drivable for a while yet, then again it could depend on when needed parts turn up.. Saying all that it would be nice to drive it in the snow Oh no! 4 days without an update! Make any progress lately? Sorry for the lack of updates, I've not been feeling too good for a while now, lot's of shaky and feeling very knackered days, so progress has been a bit slow.. The good news is the right side outrigger is now bolted back on. The bent axle has straightened up as best as I can get it. There is still a very slight bend in it but you have to be looking really really hard to notice it while rotating the axle.. So fingers crossed it should be ok. 8 new taper-lock bushes of a different make turned up in the post so I thought I'd get the chains re-fitted yesterday.. All was going well until I found this chain tensioner/guide that had been neatly sliced into three by the chain!! No problem I thought... Just take the half link out and the chain should of stretched enough by now to run with a tensioner.... Nope, the chain still won't fit without the half link!! Time to get serious... Skateboard wheels seemed like a good idea at the time but clearly they are not up to the job. So onto the interweb thingy to find the smallest 3/4" pitch sprockets I could.. So I now have four 8 tooth sprockets heading this way, I'm not 100% sure they are small enough to fit but I have to try them as I don't fancy having to make four sprockets from scratch. With the chain job postponed until the sprockets turn up I took yet another look at where to mount the battery.. For a while I have been thinking about giving the rear end an elderly Cat D9 sort of look, mostly because the seat back needs a lot more support (yes I know it needs a new seat) as it does get a bit worrying when climbing steep slopes. And then I thought I could put the battery one side and the gas tank the other. With two boxes to give it a more even look.. As a couple of boxes plonked on doesn't really explain the look I'm thinking of here's a D9 pic for you. The seat area is the kinda look I'm thinking, just without the roll cage or yellow paint.... But the tracks would be quite nice I'm still not feeling that good today, but I do need to get off my 'orse and do something.. So I think a gentle few hours mocking the rear body up with cardboard is called for.. This will give me a better idea on how my idea will look..... It will also tell me if I could actually climb on and off the beast with hidden battery one side of the seat and a hidden gas tank the other!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Don1977 604 #893 Posted December 20, 2012 I don't think the boxes on each side will look right. A two piece seat like came on the older C-series or GT-14 with arm rest would look good. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Scrumpy 5 #894 Posted December 21, 2012 Stig, If you do go that route I would make both boxes the same height and pad the top. Might be suprised how many times you use them for armrests. -Scrump Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ol550 830 #895 Posted December 21, 2012 Stig, If you do go that route I would make both boxes the same height and pad the top. Might be suprised how many times you use them for armrests. -Scrump Or can holders :handgestures-thumbup: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #896 Posted December 27, 2012 I don't think the boxes on each side will look right. A two piece seat like came on the older C-series or GT-14 with arm rest would look good. I agree with you Don, it would take too much "Wheel horsey-ness" away from the rear end, and just make it so much harder for me to climb on and off.. An interesting thought on the 2 piece seat's.... HHmm... I'd best have a looks for some pictures of.. Stig, If you do go that route I would make both boxes the same height and pad the top. Might be suprised how many times you use them for armrests. -Scrump I did have that thought.. I manage to bash my elbows enough as it is Stig, If you do go that route I would make both boxes the same height and pad the top. Might be suprised how many times you use them for armrests. -Scrump Or can holders I have a 12 volt fridge for that.. Just need to run a couple of wires to the trailer No progress report this time I'm afraid chap and chapesses as it's been a good few days since I have been out to the shack, but a couple of delivery's have turned up... A rather large sheet of 1.5mm steel for making the fenders and other bits.. And at the other end of the size scale, these four 8 tooth sprockets have arrived.. They will be much better chain tensioners. The plan (I think) is to bore the sprockets out a bit each side to fit bearings and then mount them the same way the old tensioners are/were. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Don1977 604 #897 Posted December 28, 2012 That should take care of your chain tensioners. Hope you can get back in the shop soon and make some progress. Would like to see that machine plowing snow. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
neil 2,409 #898 Posted December 28, 2012 Ian ,Have you ever thought of maybe making a canopy for the tractor , like the one in the dozer pic above, i could also incorprate a roll cage 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #899 Posted December 31, 2012 (edited) That should take care of your chain tensioners. Hope you can get back in the shop soon and make some progress. Would like to see that machine plowing snow. Hey Don, yep those sprockets should do the job, it will be nice to be able to drive the ol girl again without worrying about the chains doing strange things. It was nice to get back in the shack today, if only for a couple of hours. Sorry no chance of seeing the beast pushing snow about this winter, it will be a couple of months at least before the blade is finished and mounted... Ian ,Have you ever thought of maybe making a canopy for the tractor , like the one in the dozer pic above, i could also incorprate a roll cage Hi Neil, I hope your not getting flooded again, I hear there are a lot of flood warnings in your neck of the woods. I don't think the 6X6 will need a roll cage, the center of gravity is so low you would have to try driving it up a brick wall to roll or tip it. No real progress to report, I did manage to to grab a couple of hours in the shack today and made a start on boring out the new sprockets for bearings.. Three done one side and none done the other.. That's it!!! Got my folks coming over for tomorrow which rules out any shack time, but come Wednesday I hope to really get cracking on with this project again.. Oh, if anyone want's to buy my Raider 10 (with 12hp engine) have a look in the classifieds. Edited December 31, 2012 by Stigian Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #900 Posted January 3, 2013 Howdo all, only a small update but a big step towards getting the beast moving under it's own power again.. Once all eight sprockets were bored out each side..Again as I managed to under cut the size of the bores each time! They were put on the wood burner to get them nice and hot.. The bearings went in the freezer.. An hour or so later... Once I'd made a couple of spacers on (sorry forgot to take any photos) the lathe it was time to see if it would all fit in the outrigger and do the "chain tension thing" as I hope they will do... Despite the naff photo's I'm happy.. Much better than the old skateboard wheel set-up.. It won't take long to quickly make 6 more spacers for the other chains, install a battery tray... Then I can drive the ol girl again :music-rockon: 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites