312Hydro 474 #626 Posted June 23, 2012 Nice table, I like it! Are those cup holders on the sides? Looking good once again! :handgestures-thumbupleft: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #627 Posted June 23, 2012 "A clean bench"! You say.... Yep, somewhere clean to crack open the front trans. The big rubber hammer did come in handy Ah... There's more oil left in the trans than I thought!! A couple of bits of shaped steel that I use on the lathe for diverting cutting fluid were quickly put into action diverting trans oil.. While waiting for the oil to drain the top front of the chassis got it's paint job. Oil drained, so off with the side cover.. Nice and clean in there with only a little crud sitting at the base. The diff open, showing it's in two wheel drive mode. A quick shuffle of the pinion gears later and the trans is now in "Left hand drive mode" A big thanks you to Scott (Smoreau) for the tip on how to do this Before I could bolt the side cover back on a new gasket is needed, best make one then.. The gasket paper was given lot's of 's (I've always wanted to use that emotithingy) with a hammer around to mark where to cut. Easy to see where to cut on the other side. Looking good, I just need to cut a few more bolt holes, but that can wait until tomorrow. One last thing chap's, I found that the trans makes a strange rattling sound when turned by hand.. When the side cover came off I found it was the pump making the noise.. Is the pump shot or is the sound due to a lack of oil? Click on the blurred pic below to see and hear the action.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #628 Posted June 23, 2012 Nice table, I like it! Are those cup holders on the sides? Looking good once again! Thanks Rich. Nope not cup holders Just a big hole for computer cables to pass through when it was used as a computer desk in a former life.. It will start looking good when parts get bolted back on again! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 993 #629 Posted June 24, 2012 dont quote me but my 312-h makes a clicking sound when rolled around without engine on Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
312Hydro 474 #630 Posted June 24, 2012 dont quote me but my 312-h makes a clicking sound when rolled around without engine on Mine does too. {sorry for the quote) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smoreau 658 #631 Posted June 24, 2012 I think it's fine Ian. All eaton 1100 make a clicking sound when pushed. With no oil in it it would be louder and more metallic sounding. Them pumps can take a lot of abuse as long as the oil is changed regularly, I like to use synthetic oil in them as it takes the heat better then regular oil does and wouldn't brake down from the oil sheering that the pump does. This is just my opinion of coarse, based on my own study's. But good clean standard 10w30 will work just fine. Thats what I change a new to me tractor with first to make sure the trans will hold up. If it does, then I switch it out with Mobil 1. I have had less winning under load and faster implement lifts in the winter months. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #632 Posted June 24, 2012 dont quote me but my 312-h makes a clicking sound when rolled around without engine on dont quote me but my 312-h makes a clicking sound when rolled around without engine on Mine does too. {sorry for the quote) Thanks Guy's, I had forgotten that the other trans makes the same sort of sound when being pushed. Though it does not make the clicking sound when the pulley is being turned by hand, where as the front trans does! I think it's fine Ian. All eaton 1100 make a clicking sound when pushed. With no oil in it it would be louder and more metallic sounding. Them pumps can take a lot of abuse as long as the oil is changed regularly, I like to use synthetic oil in them as it takes the heat better then regular oil does and wouldn't brake down from the oil sheering that the pump does. This is just my opinion of coarse, based on my own study's. But good clean standard 10w30 will work just fine. Thats what I change a new to me tractor with first to make sure the trans will hold up. If it does, then I switch it out with Mobil 1. I have had less winning under load and faster implement lifts in the winter months. Thanks Scott, you've put my mind at ease about the sound.. I did have a panic moment that the pump was knackered!! Well, seeing as today's plans have changed due to the weather (I was going to watch BLMRA mower racing that's being held locally (I could hear them from the shack yesterday), but I don't fancy standing in sideways rain today!) I'm going to try and talk my Wife into letting me head to the shack to get the other trans done.. If all goes to plan I could be bolting the project back together tomorrow :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wheeledhorseman 574 #633 Posted June 24, 2012 Come a long way in a relatively short period of time there Ian since the change in project direction. Great stuff - hope to see it at Ardingly. Andy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
neil 2,409 #634 Posted June 24, 2012 does this mean we are going to get to see the 6x6 at Ardingly Ian Hope so as i have plenty of somerset cider & cheddar cheese to be consumed and would like you and all others attending to join me in a glass or three Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #635 Posted June 24, 2012 Come a long way in a relatively short period of time there Ian since the change in project direction. Great stuff - hope to see it at Ardingly. Andy Thanks Andy, Ardingly has been the motivation behind the big push to get the beast sorted. At the moment it's looking good as long as I can find the correct axle oil seals in time.. does this mean we are going to get to see the 6x6 at Ardingly Ian Hope so as i have plenty of somerset cider & cheddar cheese to be consumed and would like you and all others attending to join me in a glass or three It's looking like it will be there Neil, the rebuild starts tomorrow so not long until it's back together... Cider and cheese sounds good to me Sir My Wife did let me "play" as she calls it, in the shack today. First thing to do was to get the front trans finished.. It didn't take long. Well, almost finished, this oil seal took a bit of a battering and needs replacing. One down, one to go. The rear trans slowly made it's way over "The bridge of death" to the bench of dismantlement. The chances of the drain plug coming out ranged from "No hope" all the way to "your having a laugh", and I didn't fancy the chances of being able to undo this union with the pipe splitting!! So once again the trans was split carefully and the oil channeled away. This trans was a lot more gunked up inside that the first one, but all looked good once cleaned up. While the trans was apart I pulled out the axle oil seals as they looked a bit suspect.. On the left is the one that came out, on the right is it's replacement with the right part number.!!! Hhhmm... they look a little different to me!! Can anyone help out here, I can find more of the new thinner oil seals but I can't find any that match the originals in size.. Or do I put two of the small seals on each axle At the end of play today, two trans'sss one left hand drive the other right hand drive.. They are both needing axle seals but they can be bolted back in the chassis and the seals fitted later. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smoreau 658 #636 Posted June 24, 2012 I have herd of some guys installing 2 seals in place of one thicker seals. I would install 2 if i was in your situation. You got to do way you can with what you have to work with. So with that said, you should be fine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,029 #637 Posted June 25, 2012 Yup the new seals are thinner, if you put two in, I would put some thin grease between them, the outer seal will be running dry till the inner starts to leak, and that could be years, and by that time the outer seal will be burned up and run a chance on cutting a grove in the axle, if it is not lubed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alan_Heist 7 #638 Posted June 25, 2012 I would only put 1 in. However, don't push it all the way in, make it flush with the outer housing. You risk more damage to your axles running one dry that the advantage that a second seal my provide... IMHO. You are going to de-grease and paint those before you install, right? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JamesBe1 82 #639 Posted June 25, 2012 Those look like the exact same seal that I just put on my 50" tiller. Wheel Horse used two on each side, so I suppose there are places where you can use two without any problem. I don't think it could possibly hurt (imho) to have two on each axle if you wanted to. Just a bit of added security. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,570 #640 Posted June 25, 2012 One down, one to go. The rear trans slowly made it's way over "The bridge of death" to the bench of dismantlement. sounds like a chaper from Harry Potter !!! looking good 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #641 Posted June 25, 2012 I have herd of some guys installing 2 seals in place of one thicker seals. I would install 2 if i was in your situation. You got to do way you can with what you have to work with. So with that said, you should be fine. Hey Scott, I think your right, two seals is the way to go. I'd like to fit the correct size seals, but just can't find them. Yup the new seals are thinner, if you put two in, I would put some thin grease between them, the outer seal will be running dry till the inner starts to leak, and that could be years, and by that time the outer seal will be burned up and run a chance on cutting a grove in the axle, if it is not lubed. Hi Kelly, I took your advice when fitting the only two seals I had and put a bit of grease between the two. Top thinking Sir I would only put 1 in. However, don't push it all the way in, make it flush with the outer housing. You risk more damage to your axles running one dry that the advantage that a second seal my provide... IMHO. You are going to de-grease and paint those before you install, right? Hi Alan, many moons ago (or so it feels) I did have to change one of the seals on the rear trans. I did try one of the thinner seals flush with the housing, but it leaked. Putting in a second seal did the job.. Shame I trashed them when playing with the diff yesterday! Nope the trans'sss will be going back on as is for now. As much as I'd love to get the beast painted before Ardingly, time wise I'm out of luck. They will get repainted when I get to the paint stage of the build, for now I will have to settle for the "work in progress" look. Those look like the exact same seal that I just put on my 50" tiller. Wheel Horse used two on each side, so I suppose there are places where you can use two without any problem. I don't think it could possibly hurt (imho) to have two on each axle if you wanted to. Just a bit of added security. Good to know Wheel Horse used two seals on some things, it makes using two seals feel a bit more WH now. One down, one to go. The rear trans slowly made it's way over "The bridge of death" to the bench of dismantlement. sounds like a chaper from Harry Potter !!! looking good Thanks Mark, I was thinking more Bill Bailey than Harry Potter when I typed that line... Only a very small update today Guy's, I had another pointless hospital visit today that robbed me of most of my Shack time. The front trans is now bolted back on the chassis, I still have to make some brackets to clamp the axle casing down. The trans was treated to the only two new oils seals I had, should have some more arriving by the end of the week.. The missing engine bolt hole turned into mounting stud. And one of the drive belt pulley mounts got a slight extension to give it a bit more adjustment. Ordered the new drive belt today, only a small one at 11'4" long The bench top went back on the chassis last thing, I noticed today that the rear trans has locked up, so I need to crack it open tomorrow to see what I've done wrong! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
312Hydro 474 #642 Posted June 26, 2012 "And one of the drive belt pulley mounts got a slight extension to give it a bit more adjustment. Ordered the new drive belt today, only a small one at 11'4" long " So which is longer,the belt or the hood? Keep at it Ian,great work there! Won't be long till it's spinnin' those wheels! :handgestures-thumbupright: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jake Kuhn 1,555 #643 Posted June 26, 2012 That is a very short drive belt! Jake Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #644 Posted June 26, 2012 So which is longer,the belt or the hood? Keep at it Ian,great work there! Won't be long till it's spinnin' those wheels! As it turns out Rich, the belt is longer That is a very short drive belt! Jake As it happens Jake, it is a very short drive belt.. Too short as it turned out!! First task on the hit list today was to find out why the rear trans would not turn after I had bolted it back together.. Once the side cover came off the problem was easily spotted, some muppet had put the diff bolts back in the wrong way round so the end of the thread was getting stuck against the cog on the left!! An easy fix though. Best start bolting bits back on.. The engine inches it's way down the "Springboard of doom" And someone goes a bit nuts playing with steering levers I like to think I'm a practical kinda chap... I can weld ok.. Getting by on the lathe as well... But why oh why can't I ever manage to measure up for a drive belt right!! What am I doing wrong chaps? Another belt problem I found was the belt would just touch the chassis in a couple of places. Only one way to sort it !! The engine and hood stand were unbolted from the chassis to make working space.. The chop chop!! The front bit of channel almost welded in.. The rear bit mostly welded and cleaned up.. It won't take long to finish the chassis channeling off tomorrow, then I can start bolting bit's back on... Again!! Oh, if any of you fine chaps have any tips on how to measure up for a drive belt that winds all over the place, let me know.. Cheers.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ole MN 11 #645 Posted June 26, 2012 (Length x width / pie) + 5 beers - Tuesday? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smoreau 658 #646 Posted June 26, 2012 Been there and done that the first time putting a eaton back together We sometimes need to screw up a little to learn a lot! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jachady 130 #647 Posted June 27, 2012 (Length x width / pie) + 5 beers - Tuesday? That's the funniest damn thing I've read in a long time. Glad I wasn't drinking anything when I read this. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #648 Posted June 27, 2012 (Length x width / pie) + 5 beers - Tuesday? What time Tuesday? Been there and done that the first time putting a eaton back together We sometimes need to screw up a little to learn a lot! That makes me feel better about it, messing up on the second not the first trans.. You would of thought I'd of known what I was doing on the second one (Length x width / pie) + 5 beers - Tuesday? That's the funniest damn thing I've read in a long time. Glad I wasn't drinking anything when I read this. A lucky escape, coffee can might a right mess of a keyboard/monitor/wall/depends how good your aim is.. Wow, these updates are getting almost daily!! Scary !! After yesterdays cut and channel of a couple of bit of the chassis, I needed to finish them off.. Seen here with a belt roughly thrown in place. Speaking of belts, after bolting the engine and hood stand back down I measured up for a new belt using a couple of old belts.. Last time I tried this I used super glue which didn't hold for that long.. This time I went for something a tad stronger to join the belts together It worked a treat with the belt holding nice and tight in the right places.. For any "number freaks" out there, the new belt I ordered this evening measures 12' 3/4".. Oh and the hood is 4' 2" long More parts going on. A tread plate foot plate thingy that also hides the battery. Gas tank and hood on. Still need to do loads of work on the hood. After all the engine position moves it's final resting place is only half inch further back than standard, the Raider belt guard almost bolted on to the engine! I'm not sure what shape the front belt guard is going to be, something strange I expect Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,132 #649 Posted June 27, 2012 Similar to Ole MN's belt equation...looks like that hood keeps growing exponentially every time we see it Ian. :ychain: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #650 Posted June 28, 2012 Yep it is seeming to be growing out of all proportions now.. I think the belt guard is taking after it Welcome to your daily Stig fix Mr Postman brought me a parcel this morning.. I like things that say Wheel Horse on them On to the belt guard. The raider item got a little trim to fit around the engine pulley. A dig under the bench produced this naked belt cover. Not sure what it was from, maybe that 518-H I had a few years ago Would you believe the outer side has been in bare metal for at least 3 years, it is as it came out the E-tank!! The belt guard is really starting to grow now. While this was going on all six wheel got a lick of paint.. I was going to leave the wheels as they were for the show (that work in progress look) but as they were all in varying shades of silver and rust/white and rust I thought I should do something about it. Now don't be fooled by the photos, these wheels were very quickly wire brushed and given a slap of paint.. They look as rough as they sound but are all the same colour now. Back to the far reaches of the belt guard and I needed something to make a fan guard out of.. Looks of looking around the place later, the old knackered KT-17 engine kindly donated it's fan cover.. Now all I needed was something with a big round hole for fitting the fan cover into.. Then Rob had an idea!! Hhhmm... Interesting.. A bit of trimming later... A view from the front.. I think it could work with the open bit of the fan shroud boxed in in a nice curvy way to match the shape. A view from the back of the fan shroud cover.. What do you think Guy's, should I go for it?? To finish off this update, have part 32 of this build in video format. Enjoy. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites