Kohler 18hp

[mort 24]

I probably turned it 10 times by hand and then drained the oil and added new. I put in seafoam in the gas. It started and a lot of black dry pieces came out. I am guessing that is normal under the circumstances. Is that carbon pieces? I will try it again later. Anything else I should do?

[953 nut 56,395]

2 minutes ago, mort said:

Is that carbon pieces?

         That soaking probably loosened them up.            

[mort 24]

Okay.

 

It didn't stay running so that is why I will be trying it again.

 

Thanks,

Mort 

[mort 24]

Now it won't start. I am guessing it is not sparking but what would cause it to stall and then not start? Like I said a lot of carbon came out and I thought it was running hotter than it should.

[mort 24]

On 5/24/2023 at 6:16 PM, 953 nut said:

         That soaking probably loosened them up.            

Now it won't start. It was running good and blowing out all that carbon junk and then it stopped. Any ideas on what happened? Anything else I can do to getting it running again?

[Handy Don 12,876]

One thing that comes to mind is that all that carbon flying around may well have fouled the spark plug. Remove, check, and clean?

[mort 24]

23 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

One thing that comes to mind is that all that carbon flying around may well have fouled the spark plug. Remove, check, and clean?

I checked all that and it looked fine. Could all of that carbon junk screw up the valves/rings? It seemed to run smoothly but it also got the exhaust area pretty hot.

[Handy Don 12,876]

A really hot exhaust (i.e. starting to glow a dull red) often means the carb is set too lean.

[mort 24]

29 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

A really hot exhaust (i.e. starting to glow a dull red) often means the carb is set too lean.

I can't say I saw it turn red but I know it was hot and smoking a bit in that area after it stalled. Since it started fine and ran smoothly for awhile and then died wouldn't it at least start again without making s carb adjustment? I noticed a discrepancy in the manual on the spark plug gap but I think .35 is correct.

 

Could I have done some serious damage to it and that is the reason for it not starting?

 

I am not a mechanic but I am handy. Not the greatest on repairing ( or starting) engines but I did take off an Onan flywheel to replace a $100+ part last year. Never pulled off a flywheel before but I did it because it wouldn't start and The Wheel Horse Forum said it had to be that part. Sure enough it was that part and it started and worked great. Thanks!

 

 

 

 

 

[c-series don 9,179]

I doubt that you did any damage. I’d start back with the basics, is it getting fuel and does it have spark? Then go from there. 

[mort 24]

7 minutes ago, c-series don said:

I doubt that you did any damage. I’d start back with the basics, is it getting fuel and does it have spark? Then go from there. 

Okay. I will go back to the drawing board. Thanks, Mort

 

[953 nut 56,395]

11 hours ago, mort said:

I can't say I saw it turn red but I know it was hot and smoking a bit in that area after it stalled.

Wonder if a small critter had nested in the muffler and the remains of the nest are blocking your exhaust.        

[Handy Don 12,876]

55 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

Wonder if a small critter had nested in the muffler and the remains of the nest are blocking your exhaust.        

@mort I concur on this one. Also, that plus the penetrants put into the cylinder could have gotten into the muffler and be the cause of the too hot, the smoking, AND the flying bits!

[mort 24]

That could be the problem. I will check this weekend and let you guys know.

Thank you!

 

[mort 24]

I took of the muffler and there isn't anything in there. Just to make sure I put my small vac on exhaust and was able to blow air through it. There were no nests behind all that sheet metal I took off. Any other ideas for me to check? I don't understand the two exhausts going though the muffler but could one be stuck and the other one fine? Again everything was working fine but it seemed like the front exhaust nearest to the hinge of the hood seemed hot and was smoking. Then it stopped and that area was still smoking. 

[mort 24]

It is not the muffler and I hooked up my spark plug tester and I have no spark. I took a new spark plug out of a box and still no spark.

What part do I need to buy or test to get my spark back?

Thanks,

Mort

[mort 24]

I am very confident that someone out there has the answer to my question.

 

Can someone help me?

 

Thanks,

Mort

[Handy Don 12,876]

Not sure I’m the expert here, but if there is spark on one plug and not on the other I would start with the most obvious differences since nearly all of the ignition system is shared by both cylinders.

Correct plug?

Damaged plug wire?

[mort 24]

I have no spark on either cylinder. As I mentioned this was working and then died. I checked both spark plugs and a new one out of a champion box. They are the correct spark plugs with .35 gap 

[mort 24]

You mentioned all of the ignition system is shared by both cylinders. What are all the parts in the ignition system and what part is likely my problem?

 

 

 

Thanks,

 

Mort 

[Handy Don 12,876]

Not knowing what all you’ve done or already tried...

So now you look at the shared elements in the ignition system step by step.

Battery?

Power (approx 12volts) through ignition switch to the plus side of the coil while engine is cranking?

Safety switches all ok? (Kinds of switches and their exact function depends on your tractor model and year--PTO, clutch/neutral, seat, oil pressure are some?)

Points properly cleaned and gapped?

Coil tested for proper resistance on primary and secondary?

 

Do you have the wiring diagram to use?

[mort 24]

That battery is fine and so are the safety switches (seat, pto and neutral). I have replaced points on another Kohler engine when it was running rough. Wouldn't the engine at least start or at least spark if the points needed to be gapped?

 

The coil is what I was thinking was probably wrong but didn't test it yet.

Is there an ignition module on the Kohler Magnum like the Onan engine has?

I do not have a Kohler Magnum manual.

 

Thanks,

Mort 

[Handy Don 12,876]

If the points don't open and close, no spark. Dirty or burned contacts, no spark. If the relative time spent closed vs. open is not correct (the gapping), no spark.

 

You’ve moved beyond my expertise--I’ve not worked on Kohler Magnums, only K’s and Onans with battery, coil, points ignitions

You should be searching the files on this site for the model for your tractor and for engine manual.

[mort 24]

Thanks Handy Don!

Unfortunately I don't have much expertise on any of the engines you mentioned.

 

I have worked on a 16 hp Onan ignition module and that was beyond on my expertise but someone on the Wheel Horse Forum walked me through it and I got through it.

 

I do have the 418-A parts and service manual. I will look for the Kohler Magnum manual.

 

Thanks,

Mort

[pfrederi 18,082]