steel fuel main line

[peter lena 8,631]

https://www.amazon.com/Ft-Brake-Line-Tubing-Kit/dp/B08KGZ6WTF/ref=asc_df_B08KGZ6WTF?tag=bingshoppinga-  got some coming in , to do a front to back main line , eliminating fuel hose , breakdown , always trying something else , the vinyl fuel hose , does not fail . but it does get  hard , some splitting . hand tubing bender will make it easier . 5/16 " size . pete

[Pullstart 62,905]

Great addition for sure!  There is a big reason the auto industry uses little rubber and a lot of steel tubing!

[peter lena 8,631]

@Pullstart  yup thats what I  was thinking , already picturing out the line run , staying crazy , pete 

[ebinmaine 67,550]

What tractor is this going on Pete? 

[ri702bill 8,327]

Pete - careful - watch for vibration fatigue at the ends.....

Bill

[wallfish 17,002]

What about using 1/4" soft copper tubing? No bender required although a small bender is cheap and would make nice clean looking bends plus local hardware stores should have all the parts and connection ends.

(I don't know if there any downsides to copper and fuel)

 

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,550]

3 minutes ago, wallfish said:

don't know if there any downsides to copper and fuel

Copper and fuel is fine but copper and vibration, not so much.

 

I chose a copper mechanical oil guage line for the Colossus tractor but shied away from using it for the fuel.  

[wallfish 17,002]

21 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Copper and fuel is fine but copper and vibration, not so much.

 

I chose a copper mechanical oil guage line for the Colossus tractor but shied away from using it for the fuel.  

Just playing devil's advocate. No skin in the game either way.

The copper is soft and should flex a little but should be mounted rigid most of the way anyway. The end connections from the tube to filter and carb should be flexible fuel line anyway. Maybe the vibrations could still crack it but IDK.

[ebinmaine 67,550]

Just now, wallfish said:

Just playing devil's advocate. No skin in the game either way.

The copper is soft and should flex a little but should be mounted rigid most of the way anyway. The end connections from the tube to filter and carb should be flexible fuel line anyway. Maybe the vibrations could still crack it but IDK.

 

 

I can see the logic in that.

 

In order to accommodate and compensate for the vibration of the oil line or even fuel lines on some older vehicles there is a coil about three rings deep installed at the ends of the lines kind of like some of the old brake systems used to have done right at the master cylinder.

[rmaynard 15,500]

If you look at the fuel lines between the pump and the carburetor on older K161 and K181 engines, they are steel. The connections at the ends are anti-vibration, brass with rubber inserts. There must have been a reason why Wheel Horse chose to only use it there and nowhere else, then go to all rubber in later models.

[wallfish 17,002]

1 minute ago, rmaynard said:

If you look at the fuel lines between the pump and the carburetor on older K161 and K181 engines, they are steel. The connections at the ends are anti-vibration, brass with rubber inserts. There must have been a reason why Wheel Horse chose to only use it there and nowhere else, then go to all rubber in later models.

Cost and ease of installation for mass production ?

Think the rigid carb tube would've been Kohler's design and came with the engines and not so much WH. Still cheaper to use fuel line for that too and quicker to install.

I'd assume steel lines wouldn't be used at all for automobile brakes if vibration cracking is even a remote potential problem.

 

[953 nut 55,280]

17 hours ago, peter lena said:

https://www.amazon.com/Ft-Brake-Line-Tubing-Kit/dp/B08KGZ6WTF/ref=asc_df_B08KGZ6WTF?tag=bingshoppinga-  got some coming in , to do a front to back main line , eliminating fuel hose , breakdown , always trying something else , the vinyl fuel hose , does not fail . but it does get  hard , some splitting . hand tubing bender will make it easier . 5/16 " size . pete

When you do your installation be sure to have coil or S bend at each end to avoid work hardening from vibration.

[peter lena 8,631]

@ebinmaine  /  all others  ,early 90,s  312-8 , that   I am  planning to sell , thinning the herd , then be down to 2 units , what ever hard line set up I  do will have isolating secure mounting  to eliminate vibrational  cracking , if I  swage fit the ends , that would be the best option , for easy on off  vinyl  / flex connection . tank set up was never an issue . just thinking up what if's ?  regularly try / experiment with , chronic issues and eliminate them . pete

[Bill D 1,922]

Would you consider Nickel-Copper line?  Easy to bend and strong.  I've used it to replace rusted brake lines.

[peter lena 8,631]

@Bill D  , think I  will swage Lok fitting  the steel ends , so I will have a choice for the vinyl hose mount , have not used copper / Nickle line .  just got in my 5/16 " 90,s  . , always trying something for durability or  functional ease . enjoy doing that , love making a mess work like it should . marvel at the durability . thanks to all that have responded to this , experiment , let you know pete

[ebinmaine 67,550]

On 5/19/2023 at 8:12 AM, peter lena said:

early 90,s  312-8

I'll be looking forward to hearing/reading what your impressions are. 

At some point we'll be running new line in the backhoe tractor. 1986 416-8.  

Metal would be nice if it's reasonably easy to do.  

 

 

[Heatingman 971]

On 5/19/2023 at 10:25 AM, Bill D said:

Would you consider Nickel-Copper line?  Easy to bend and strong.  I've used it to replace rusted brake lines.

Ive had them on my 06 GMC for at least a decade now. Holding up well. 

[RandyLittrell 3,884]

On 5/19/2023 at 6:17 AM, rmaynard said:

If you look at the fuel lines between the pump and the carburetor on older K161 and K181 engines, they are steel. The connections at the ends are anti-vibration, brass with rubber inserts. There must have been a reason why Wheel Horse chose to only use it there and nowhere else, then go to all rubber in later models.

 

Cub cadet did the same thing, copper in the first models and then went to rubber. 

 

 

Randy

[peter lena 8,631]

 

@Pullstart  and all others on this steel fuel line possibility , every time I  see a horse rehab , thats your opportunity to set up a better fuel line run . think about it , if you only had 1 foot of clear vinyl fuel hose and filter , at tank / to carb , you would be eliminating , the vast majority of  ethanol fuel hose breakdown . when I  think about the ethanol free cost , against a change to stop that , its a no brainer . personally , found STA BIL fuel treatment , to counter all the breakdown of black rubber hose , no rubber debris at all in my fuel bowl / filters . realize this   will bring up a number of experiences , mine is just what it is , fact , ethanol does break down , rubber fuel hose , minimize it / filter it / vinyl does work , but gets firm over time , anything  I suggest is something that I have been trying , for a repetitive issue . my carb bowls are all clean and clear , isn't that what you want  ? just tinkering , pete

[Pullstart 62,905]

On 5/19/2023 at 11:25 AM, Bill D said:

Would you consider Nickel-Copper line?  Easy to bend and strong.  I've used it to replace rusted brake lines.

 

On 5/21/2023 at 8:26 PM, Heatingman said:

Ive had them on my 06 GMC for at least a decade now. Holding up well. 

another  for nickel-copper brake lines!

 

On 5/19/2023 at 8:01 AM, 953 nut said:

When you do your installation be sure to have coil or S bend at each end to avoid work hardening from vibration.

 

 

yup yup yup!

[rmaynard 15,500]

I know that a lot of you guys use various additives in your fuel to counter the effects of ethanol. Many of you know that I won't use any of those things. I have a Honda lawnmower that is now going on 25 year old. The salesman told me that if I ever had to pull the recoil rope more than twice, there was something wrong. This has only happened once in all those years and it was the time that I had added Sta-Bil to my gas in the fall before mowing for the last time. Someone had told me that if I didn't, ethanol gas would kill my carburetor. Well, upon removing the bowl, the contents was like amber jello. After flushing the fuel system and putting in fresh gas, it started immediately and has continued until this day. I will not use Sta-Bil, nor will I use Seafoam (just pull up the SDS on Seafoam and see what's in it). I do however use non-ethanol gas now. 

 

I know this is a bit off the track for this thread, but I just have to rant once in awhile.