formariz 11,987 #1 Posted May 16, 2023 I need to change motor mounts on one of my tractors. Going to swap them with the solid aluminum ones. Is it possible to do so without removing engine from tractor by doing one at a time? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,840 #2 Posted May 16, 2023 I think fronts and rears while the others are loose works well 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,079 #3 Posted May 16, 2023 I have heard about issues getting things aligned. I have never done it. I think if you had a hoist you could lift the engine about 6 inches with out unhooking everything and replace the mounts all at once Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 48,815 #4 Posted May 16, 2023 (edited) Easy peasy Cas you'll have no problem. Motor does not have to come off the blocks or plate Take the deck/drive belts off. Loosen all the mounting bolts Start at one corner and with a stout flat or crowbar and carefully lift the motor up just enough to wiggle the old ones and the new ones in. If they are Kerber mounts they are precision so alignment won't be a problem. I think I did the two front ones first then the back. It may help to leave some mounting bolts a couple threads in so the shaker plate doesn't slide around on the v blocks. These thing are better than sliced bread. Edited May 16, 2023 by WHX?? 5 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,840 #5 Posted May 16, 2023 If Uncle Jim can do it… 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 48,815 #6 Posted May 16, 2023 (edited) You can do it! Got a C-121 auto that may become a two seater and it needs the same fix. While that motor is lifted abit slide a 9/16 under to make sure the motor to shaker plate bolts are tight. Edited May 17, 2023 by WHX?? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrc 812 #7 Posted May 17, 2023 i did that job on my SIL's C161. i used the zack kerber product. fit perfectly and about half the cost of toro replacements. i did not have to lift the engine off the frame. i recall needing drift punches. also the EXACT correct length bolts. too short and not enough engagement. too long and cannot get them in. sorry i do not remember what length bolts i used. good luck 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,316 #8 Posted May 17, 2023 12 hours ago, squonk said: I have heard about issues getting things aligned. I have never done it. I think if you had a hoist you could lift the engine about 6 inches with out unhooking everything and replace the mounts all at once I did mine on the C81 - only had to lift about 3 inches to slip in the temporary support blocks - loosening the vee blocks made the lineup easier for the final assembly... 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John2189 452 #9 Posted May 19, 2023 What is the reason for the solid mounts? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tuneup 1,433 #10 Posted May 20, 2023 Mine looked easy to do but it took an hour and a half and I even had to loosen the rear blocks to get maximum slop. Kudos to those that lift the engine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 48,815 #11 Posted May 20, 2023 23 hours ago, John2189 said: What is the reason for the solid mounts? Cheaper than rubber mounts. Better engine alignment. Worn rubber mounts can cause the motor to move quite abit when engaging the pto. I actually had less vibration with solids. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
