How Do You Do That?

[rmaynard 15,501]

I guess I'll start a new topic here where questions like "how is that done" or how can I do that", can be answered by those who have more knowledge than me.

 

So here is my first question. How do you remove the stud in this idler?

I need to replace the bearing and can't for the life of me figure out how this stud is removed.

[squonk 41,136]

Press. Use a socket that just fits over the stud so it supports the inner bearing race but the slotted end of the stud will slip thru. Press from the threaded side.

[Pullstart 62,905]

[ebinmaine 67,552]

4 hours ago, rmaynard said:

stud

Interesting setup. These common ?

I don't recall seeing one.  

 

[Marv 924]

[WHX?? 48,823]

Clutch idler off a Suburban or maybe a RJ and othersEB ... of course you wouldn't know since you DON'T  HAVE A ROUND HOOD!

You need one Bob I have some or @prondzy does too. He made a jig for setting rivets back in original instead of nuts n bolts. Turns off the old ones on a lathe.

[JAinVA 4,619]

If you need to change the bearing,then all the rivets need to come out. That  part was never designed to be serviced only replaced.

Edited May 12, 2023 by JAinVA

[rmaynard 15,501]

8 hours ago, squonk said:

Press. Use a socket that just fits over the stud so it supports the inner bearing race but the slotted end of the stud will slip thru. Press from the threaded side.

The threaded side is larger than the slotted side. How can it press through?

[squonk 41,136]

Is that edge beneath the slot, bigger than the ID of the bearing or is it an illusion in the picture.

[rmaynard 15,501]

The slotted end looks like it must be pressed toward the thread side. Threaded shaft is 1/2" diameter which is larger than the inside of the inner race.

[WHX?? 48,823]

Yes remove any burrs and press out from the slotted side. 

14 hours ago, JAinVA said:

If you need to change the bearing,then all the rivets need to come out. That  part was never designed to be serviced only replaced.

Correct but where's there a will there's a way. 

Would guess in 1960 you could walk in a dealer and buy one. 

 

Edited May 13, 2023 by WHX??

[WHX?? 48,823]

That particular idler holds a memory for me. 

2015 and I had just joined here. 

A real green horn.

Scored my first Suburban 400 and needed that part.

Met @Achto here who was building his rat rod at the time. Since it is a custom he had no use for it and sold it to me... 10 bucks I think. 

When I first met him I thought man this guy is a real dandy putting together a tractor like this. Never in a million did I figure eight years later we hang out. 

[ebinmaine 67,552]

39 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

Never in a million did I figure eight years later we hang out

Some right decent folks on this site ain't they? 

[peter lena 8,632]

@WHX??  more than anything , I  see the opportunity  to hi temp re grease grease that bearing  , thats why I like tractor supply pulleys , they regularly have the same size / type of pully with a much bigger bearing and rubber side shields . then its only a matter of getting a size to size bronze bushing to get an exact blot on fit . done that on all of my original whiney  belt driven pulleys . you can always paint them red . pete

[EB-80/8inPA 1,648]

4 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Some right decent folks on this site ain't they? 

There certainly are - most in fact, but some of these guys are downright inspirational (or humbling depending on how one happens to feel).

 

[WHX?? 48,823]

9 hours ago, peter lena said:

@WHX??  more than anything , I  see the opportunity  to hi temp re grease grease that bearing  

Wished I woulda known that back then Greasy Pete... he urged me to lube it with Cap'n... not a wonder how our bromance survived...

[Achto 27,594]

29 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

he urged me to lube it with Cap'n... not a wonder how our bromance survived

 

 

Birds of a feather.

Edited May 14, 2023 by Achto

[peter lena 8,632]

@Achto  / @WHX??  as you probably know by now , I  am in the other zone when it comes to a nagging  problem , more often than not , the original functional set up was correct , it was the build cost pull back that made it a problem . after  correcting the intent , its the detailing to that , that make things work with solid reliability . thats why I  suggest on a recent pick up , take advantage of what works , and enhance that function . just my own 2 cents , think I  used to work in Wayne's world . pete