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AlexR
1 hour ago, moe1965 said:

Nice job sounds like you need to find another project horse.   I love working on  these tractors and bringing them back to life

Trying to talk my wife into another one right now haha. 

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AlexR

Got the hood ornament done.

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Edited by AlexR
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AlexR

Got a loadhog trailer to go with the B100, Painted up the rims and got new tires. 

Now I just gotta use the penetrol on the tractor and trailer. 

IMG_20230827_165731611.jpg

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AlexR

I still have a couple little adjustments to do to the neutral location and the choke cable. But otherwise she is pretty much done. 

IMG_20230912_194702267_HDR~2.jpg

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AlexR

So I am thinking about getting a 7" slim led light bar and mounting it inside the hood aiming out the bottom hood louver. And mounting it on the hood bolts where it mounts on the hinge bracket, so no holes drilled in the hood at all. That would be my aim for doing it that way. 

 

But I am curious if anyone has done this, I am guessing the lens will pretty much need to be against the metal on the hood. 

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AlexR

Starting to do some more work on the ole B100

Installed some new axle seals, then drilled and tapped the hubs for the extra set screws,

 

Out of curiosity have any of you had issues pulling hubs off because of the extra set screws, creating dimples on the axles which then cause drag on the hub trying to get it off? 

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kpinnc
Posted (edited)
40 minutes ago, AlexR said:

Out of curiosity have any of you had issues pulling hubs off because of the extra set screws, creating dimples on the axles which then cause drag on the hub trying to get it off? 

 

Unless the dimples are really bad, it shouldn't create much issue. If it does next time you remove the hubs:

 

Use a flat file (fine) and gently run with the diameter of the bare axle until it skates over where the dimples were. It will only remove what is sticking up. Don't bear down on the file. It doesn't take much to remove the protruded section. 

 

I do the same on the keyways before changing axle seals. One layer of packing tape then prevents damage to the new seal. 

Edited by kpinnc
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AlexR
7 hours ago, kpinnc said:

 

Unless the dimples are really bad, it shouldn't create much issue. If it does next time you remove the hubs:

 

Use a flat file (fine) and gently run with the diameter of the bare axle until it skates over where the dimples were. It will only remove what is sticking up. Don't bear down on the file. It doesn't take much to remove the protruded section. 

 

I do the same on the keyways before changing axle seals. One layer of packing tape then prevents damage to the new seal. 

Thanks for the help!! Was mainly concerned about getting the hub off.. but better then it being loose haha. 

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rjg854
11 hours ago, AlexR said:

Out of curiosity have any of you had issues pulling hubs off because of the extra set screws, creating dimples on the axles which then cause drag on the hub trying to get it off? 

You could also file the area a bit deeper after you mark where the set screw sits, using the set screw while in the hub.  That way you shouldn't end up with anything sticking up that might bind on the hub.  :twocents-twocents:

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AlexR

So my gas tank has a crack in the seam at the bottom of the tank at the grommet and shutoff. 

So most people have said it's junk at that point and the only way to fix the plastic tanks is to weld the plastic.So I know the reason it's difficult to do that is getting it smooth enough to get the grommet to seal, but has anyone ever actually fixed a gas tank? There doesn't seem to be any aftermarket tanks and the used market seems pretty scarce. So I want to as least try to fix it. 

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AlexR

So this is the crack I am dealing with and cut a V on the bottom of the tank and will try to plastic weld it that way.

Filled the tank with water a couple of times all the way  to get all the gas and fumes out and just letting it sit and dry and air out.

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SylvanLakeWH
On 6/26/2024 at 8:30 PM, AlexR said:

has anyone ever actually fixed a gas tank?

Yes.

There are a couple posts on it but  can't remember who... @Pullstart? @WHX?? @Achto @ebinmaine @19richie66???

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ebinmaine
23 minutes ago, SylvanLakeWH said:

Yes.

There are a couple posts on it but  can't remember who... @Pullstart? @WHX?? @Achto @ebinmaine @19richie66???

 

I've read about it but not tried it personally.  

Perhaps @rmaynard or @Ed Kennell ?

 

 

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AlexR
Posted (edited)

Well I am fairly happy with the results going to use some 2000 grit sandpaper real lightly on it then we will see if it holds gas. 

Used a black ziptie to add plastic.

I used a soldering iron to do all this I used it in the v groove before even adding plastic to try to get that crack welded. 

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Edited by AlexR
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19richie66

I have done that on a water tank for a spray rig. Worked great and held for a couple years. Yours looks good. Nice job.

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AlexR
31 minutes ago, 19richie66 said:

I have done that on a water tank for a spray rig. Worked great and held for a couple years. Yours looks good. Nice job.

Thank you very much! 

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WHX??

Metal yes plastic no for me. 

Let us know how it works. 

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AlexR

It's holding so far but its only been a couple of hours I will keep a eye on it for the next couple days and see how it does. IMG_20240630_163046299.jpg.014b8cd068785de34fe3af8456693b3c.jpg

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rjg854
1 minute ago, AlexR said:

It's holding so far but its only been a couple of hours I will keep a eye on it for the next couple days and see how it does. IMG_20240630_163046299.jpg.014b8cd068785de34fe3af8456693b3c.jpg

:handgestures-fingerscrossed:

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AlexR
Posted (edited)

I got the choke cable fixed and the neutral position adjusted all that is left is applying the flood penetrol 

 

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Edited by AlexR
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AlexR

Gas tank is still holding up with no leaks :woohoo:

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