Trans engagement handle

[David crowe 3]

I picked up this mix breed wheel horse I am thing and not sure of year cause there is no tag on dash didn't have right engine and right now I'm trying to figure how this handle works on the trans engagement. It's tight pushing down or lifting up on it, is supposed to lock in place when I push it down to engage the belt.  I am also changing out the engine and need to know about where to place it so I have it work with the belt when in engaged and not to lose. 

[Tonytoro416 1,034]

Thinking that is a parking break

[Pullstart 62,842]

 

Yes, you push down to engage the belt and release the parking brake.  The parking brake is the lever on the bottom sticking out of the transmission.  NEVER release the belt engagement while in motion, it WILL snap the teeth off the parking pawl inside the case.  

[953 nut 55,205]

I will take a shot in the dark and guess that this is about a mid 1970s C model. The lever you are asking about performs two functions, it applies tension to the drive belt in the down position and sets the parking brake in your Sundstrand transaxle in the up position. The internal parking brakes on most Sundstrands is worn out and no longer functions. The basic function of the mechanism is to have the lever go over center forward and apply pressure to the drive belt when released and go over center rearward to pull up on the break lever (a part of the transaxle) when up.I do not have any pictures of the properly assembled mechanism but someone will be along to help, perhaps @daveoman1966 has a picture. This IPL shows the parts and pieces but not how they go together.

[peter lena 8,620]

@ @David crowe agree with others on  lever and function , also would think about replacing that idler pulley , typically  noisy / rough , you can get original  or tractor supply , with a larger bearing , that can be re greased , and bronze bushed to original 3/8 size , would also go over entire linkage set up , for lubrication detailing , a red aerosol grease , really enhances that . rusty / neglected levers / linkage can be easily turned into a smooth easy  moving point . enjoy bringing  a tractor back with detail functioning . pete

[David crowe 3]

Thanks everyone for the info and tips. I'll update you all as I work those out. Hopefully the rear-end is good 

[Moparfanforever 844]

The spring on the lever with the pulley on it doesn't look correct, the spring is small and really stiff.

They were still available last year from Toro, I had to purchase one ,and wasn't that expensive at the time. 

[oliver2-44 9,743]

7 hours ago, David crowe said:

.  I am also changing out the engine and need to know about where to place it so I have it work with the belt when in engaged and not to lose. 

 

Tell us what engine you are going back with.  A 10-16 HP Kohler should bolt right to the frame and have the correct shaft height once those channel spacers are removed. 

If you've never worked on a horse, the mounting may be a little confusing.  The engine oil pan feet bolt directly to the left side frame angle iron.  

On the right side if you have the correct WH oil pan it has threaded holes in the bottom of it and the bolts come from the bottom up through the right side frame into the oil pan.

if you have a regular non-WH oil pan you can use J bolts on the right side. 

Do you have the belt guard? you will need it for the belt/clutching to work correctly.