Utility trailer deck replacement project

[ebinmaine 67,456]

Our 5 x 8 heavy duty utility trailer has been needing new deck boards for a few years.  

We've thrown some temp boards in once maybe 3 years ago ((??))

 

Worked fine but now it's time to fix it long term.  

 

Trina's next destruction/rebuilding project is to remove the KD and OSB, scuff off as much rust as possible, repaint and install nice new PT 2 x 8 boards.  

 

 

 

[oliver2-44 9,743]

May I suggest you unbundle those PT boards, get them higher off the ground so they will dry out as much as possible. 

I realize the trailer floor will get wet in service, but its amazing how much some of those boards can shrink when dry. so that's why I like to install them relativity dry 

When I repainted my trailer after scuffing it up, I coated the rusty areas with OSPO to somewhat neutralize the rust.

I used the Hammered Black paint with a spray gun and semi-don't recommend it.  It faded quickly and lost the "hammered look"

But it has been on there for 8 years and has not peeled or let rust occur, but it does to appear to be wearing thin from age.

[ebinmaine 67,456]

1 minute ago, oliver2-44 said:

May I suggest you unbundle those PT boards, get them higher off the ground so they will dry out as much as possible. 

I realize the trailer floor will get wet in service, but its amazing how much some of those boards can shrink when dry. so that's why I like to install them relativity dry 

Good idea there.  

[Tonytoro416 1,034]

Coat underside of the boards before you put them on.  I know they are treated but I still water sealed mine 

[Rob J. 1,941]

I did a little 4x8. Just ripped the old floor out. Bought I think 7 2x6x8’ treated boards and used self tapping lag bolts to the cross members. 

[953 nut 55,205]

10 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

suggest you unbundle those PT boards, get them higher off the ground so they will dry out as much as possible.

               Be sure to allow a 1/4" or more between boards so dirt and debris won't accumulate holding moisture. 

[Sparky-(Admin) 21,315]

Fixing it before or after Zagrays? 

[ebinmaine 67,456]

29 minutes ago, Sparky said:

Fixing it before or after Zagrays? 

Definitely before.

 

If Trina does not have a busy work from home day today it'll be shredded by the time I get home.

 

 

30 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

               Be sure to allow a 1/4" or more between boards so dirt and debris won't accumulate holding moisture. 

 

As it works out by the original manufacturer that's exactly what happens when you use the right boards. 

[Pullstart 62,841]

Are there steel lips on both ends of the boards?  I saw a video of a dude put the first end under the lip, then stuck an appropriate sized block between the board and first crossmember.  He bent the board down under the rear lip and had someone blast the block out with a BFH.

[ebinmaine 67,456]

4 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

Are there steel lips on both ends of the boards?  I saw a video of a dude put the first end under the lip, then stuck an appropriate sized block between the board and first crossmember.  He bent the board down under the rear lip and had someone blast the block out with a BFH.

 

Yeah that's how this one is set up. My boss saw that same video.

 

No way we can do that with these boards though.

 

I don't know about the rest of the country but up here in the Northeast anything pressure treated is almost always yellow pine which is technically a hardwood for the hardest of the softwoods, if you like.

 

We have no way of bending it enough to put that much of a bow in it.

 

Trina's thinking she will probably take an 8-in cut out of the middle of the back piece.

When it's time to put it back together we could hold it in place with a piece of strap steel or wood for a few weeks until I can get the welder there.

 

[Pullstart 62,841]

10 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Trina's thinking she will probably take an 8-in cut out of the middle of the back piece.

When it's time to put it back together we could hold it in place with a piece of strap steel or wood for a few weeks until I can get the welder there.

great approach!

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,041]

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

Trina's thinking she will probably take an 8-in cut out of the middle of the back piece.

When it's time to put it back together we could hold it in place with a piece of strap steel or wood for a few weeks until I can get the welder there.

Could you cut the metal on one end and the side and bend it up to insert the wood. Bend it back down.

 

Maybe two 4-1/2" cuts and split it in the center. Bend back down and may not need welding.

 

Sure would be nice if you could eliminate screws. First place the wood rots.

Quote

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,456]

Just now, gwest_ca said:

Could you cut the metal on one end and the side and bend it up to insert the wood. Bend it back down.

 

Maybe two 4-1/2" cuts and split it in the center. Bend back down and may not need welding.

 

That could be a thing. I'll take a look at it when I get home.

 

[Racinbob 11,063]

I prefer having the treated boards still 'wet' when I use them for flooring. They are usually pretty straight and don't start warping until they start drying out. But by then they are held in place. I also have found that when installing them 'wet' it's best to butt them up tight and they will self space as they dry out. This is especially true with 5/4" decking but also does well with 2x8's. These were tight when installed a few years ago. 

 

 

I'm surprised that the manufacturer didn't make provisions to replace the boards. This is the front of mine. That's 2" angle and it's bolted through the frame underneath. The angle comes up behind the board I put across the front. Maybe modify yours do the something similar? 

[ebinmaine 67,456]

25 minutes ago, Racinbob said:

surprised that the manufacturer didn't make provisions to replace the boards

This trailer's Old.....

Age is literally unknown. 

The fella we got it from had it for a few years.  He got it from his father in law who'd had it quite awhile. 

He was fairly sure it was used even then. 

Certainly some back into the 80s. Maybe earlier.  

 

It's feasible that the OE manufacturer never intended to have the boards replaced. That was back when PT was much stronger.  

 

I s'pose we really don't even need to replace the piece of steel we bend or remove because every board is bolted down in at least two other places. I think the channel is there to keep future warping to a minimum.  

 

[ebinmaine 67,456]

Earlier today Trina separated and stood up the deck lumber. 

 

 

 

After that she and the Momma shredded the old deck outta the trailer frame.  

 

 

 

 

 

[Oldskool 6,644]

While apart it maybe a good idea to look over every weld for cracking.

[ebinmaine 67,456]

1 minute ago, Oldskool said:

While apart it maybe a good idea to look over every weld for cracking.

Yessuh 

[Handy Don 12,216]

I know it isn’t a factor on that trailer’s capacity and your planned usage, but as a general rule it's good to remember that a lot of trailers’ manufacturer load ratings are with a basic, thin decking or, for big box store trailers, with NO deck!

Replacing a deck with heavier material or adding other “features” increases the tare weight and lowers the load capacity accordingly. A 4x8x3/4 sheet of PT plywood is ~70 lbs . Your 8 2x8’s are ~34lbs each --> 270+ lbs!

[ebinmaine 67,456]

8 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

I know it isn’t a factor on that trailer’s capacity and your planned usage, but as a general rule it's good to remember that a lot of trailers’ manufacturer load ratings are with a basic, thin decking or, for big box store trailers, with NO deck!

Replacing a deck with heavier material or adding other “features” increases the tare weight and lowers the load capacity accordingly. A 4x8x3/4 sheet of PT plywood is ~70 lbs . Your 8 2x8’s are ~34lbs each --> 270+ lbs!

 

 

Also remember to calculate the amount of 4 x 8 plywood needed. 

This trailer would take 2.5 sheets. 

175 lbs or so. 

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,456]

20 hours ago, Oldskool said:

While apart it maybe a good idea to look over every weld for cracking.

 

Checked the welds. All looked good.  

 

Earlier today I cut the tall "toolbox" off the front. Never liked since we bought the trailer.  

It's always leaked and was tough to reach the bottom.  

 

 

Removed the biggest portions of rusty scale from a few areas. 

 

 

 

 

Washed with acetone.  

Trina sprayed some paint on the upper/outer surfaces. 

I sprayed Fluid Film on the others.  

Went with the dark brown sand filled gritty textured paint that I originally bought for Colossus. I made some changes to that color scheme so we had 3 full cans. Ran a little shy at that so we used black here and there.  

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,456]

After we got all the coatings done I was gonna move on to setting the boards in place.  

I measured the length of the trailer in comparison to the 8' standard lumber. 

The trailer mount was about 1-1/4" shorter than the 96.5" boards.  

Rather than trim them Trina and I decided to remove the rear deck retainer. 

4 welds cut and blammmo. 

 

 

 

 

I found some 5/16" x 3" carriage bolts. Drilled the boards and frame, 1 per.  

 

 

 

All boards are set with a frown so whatever water hits it will be prone to running off.  

 

 

 

 

 

Nearly complete.  Just need to add conspicuity tape up front on the sides  and fasten the wires in a few spots.  

 

[OutdoorEnvy 1,522]

So much better!  Looks like it’s ready for the long haul!  Good work!  

[ebinmaine 67,456]

26 minutes ago, OutdoorEnvy said:

So much better!  Looks like it’s ready for the long haul!  Good work!  

Thanks!!

 

Trina said just about the same thing.  

 

This repaint/repair should last for years to come.  

[Oldskool 6,644]

Looking really good. Like brandy spankin new.

Kinda surprised you didn't do something with the wiring before decking it over.