C160 auto electrical question

[chorusguy 227]

I'll try not to be long here, but I am very ignorant.  Have t run my tractor in a couple of years.  When I tried to start it the last time, had mo spark.  Noticed I had a couple of wires disconnected and looked at my other tractor and by comparison, discovered they go to the voltage regulator.  Pulled it and there is some significant charging.  Did a little reading and saw some talk about ac and dc tabs and I was lost.  So, first of all, how many tabs us it supposed to have?  Secondly, I've seen aftermarket ones with three tabs and wonder if they will work, thirdly how to wire the aftermarket ones, and fourthly, can I find an NOS regulator anywhere?

 

Thanks in advance

[chorusguy 227]

lord, my spelling. Regulator is charred, not charging.  Haven't run tractor in a couple of years. 

 

[ebinmaine 67,553]

Should be 2 AC terminals and 1 DC or Batt terminal. 

 

I'd say you're missing an AC wire terminal to mate the other one. 

 

 

My suggestion is to contact a tractor salvage yard like Lincoln at A to Z Tractor in PA and get:

 

A good regulator. 

A replacement plug. 

A few inches of good harness.  

 

That way you can splice in a proper non meltified connection.  

 

 

[chorusguy 227]

Thanks.  For clarification, the bottom connection  goes tonthe ammeter, which then returns to the battery?  There is no plug, just bladed connections unless you are describing the attachments on the regulator

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,046]

Got an ohmmeter?

See if the burnt off terminal is connected to the DC+ terminal. One AC terminal is connected to the DC+ terminal and the other is not.

 

If the burnt terminal is connected to the DC+ inside the regulator (0 ohms) connect one AC wire from the stator to the DC+ terminal and it will work. You end up with 2 wires on the DC+ terminal.

 

If it works clean/polish the remaining terminals and apply dielectric silicone grease to all the terminals to prevent future corrosion. Also make sure the female terminals grip the flat spades tight.

 

Loose and corroded terminals causes heat and the cause of your problem.

 

The body of the regulator requires a good battery ground.

 

The small regulator will work if you mount it in the blower housing. The flywheel fan can then cool it. 

The large finned regulators do not require a fan.

 

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,553]

19 minutes ago, chorusguy said:

Thanks.  For clarification, the bottom connection  goes to the ammeter, which then returns to the battery? 

 

 

One of the future project tractors I have with a Kohler engine,  the DC wire FROM the regulator goes directly to the ignition switch. 

I can't tell where the two wires connected to the ammeter would normally go to and from because the harness on this machine has been modified.  

 

 

19 minutes ago, chorusguy said:

 

There is no plug, just bladed connections unless you are describing the attachments on the regulator

 

Here's what the Voltage Regulator plug looks like. 

 

 

 

 

 

[ineedanother 1,369]

Hey @chorusguy, let me know how you make out with this. I'm less than an hour north of you and am sure I have a regulator for a k341.

[chorusguy 227]

Ok.  Thanks.  I have 3 other c160s I can look at them for comparison.  I  bought them to canabalize  if necessary,  but I don't want to cause they are too nice.  I know, first world problem.  The machine I'm working on is my first one and by far my favorite.  Thanks for all the help

[ebinmaine 67,553]

5 hours ago, chorusguy said:

I have 3 other c160s I can look at them for comparison.  I  bought them to canabalize  if necessary,  but I don't want to cause they are too nice

 

3 others??

 

That's a "bucket list" tractor for lots o folks!

 

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,553]

6 hours ago, ineedanother said:

regulator for a k341.

Might be the same for a 10 or 12 HP. 

[rmaynard 15,501]

Just remember that the regulator has nothing to do with spark. It's function is to keep the battery charged.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 20, 2023 by rmaynard

[ohiofarmer 3,276]

 I am pretty sure that Isavetractors has a modern and cheaper rectifier replacement.. If i am reading their info correctly , Two of their four units are said to fit K engines with 15 amp charging systems. one of them fit the mounting of OEM mounting plate.Prices are 29.99 and 44.99 for the larger OEM style replacement. 

   On wheel horses i have worked on, it is common for the plug that fits the regulator/rectifier to get loose and then bad stuff happens.   I got my first c-160 for a bargain because the PO did not figure out the problem. The connection is at an awkward location and is a problem to keep tight..Of course I would not expect these things to be USA made like the originals. It appears as well that the jungle website has both types as well for even better pricing.

Edited April 20, 2023 by ohiofarmer

[chorusguy 227]

@ohiofarmer thank you!

[chorusguy 227]

@ebinmaine.  I know, I have been very lucky finding them.  I had another parts tractor along with a 48" deck, and a mid mount grader blade and some other things that someone thought they needed more than I did, and relieved me of them when I was out of town

[chorusguy 227]

@rmaynard

 

Yes, I know. Thanks.  Initially, when it wouldn't start, I saw dangling wires and thought perhaps that was related.  After looking closely, I saw it was regulator. Nonetheless, I appreciate you offering that clarity.  It speaks well for you and your willingness to help.  Thanks again

[chorusguy 227]

To follow ip, this is where I am.  I nabbed a wiring diagram from another post and am going to rewire my tractor.  Although I don't want to, I am going to start robbing pieces off of another tractor.  It threw a rod, I believe, and was hoping to have it rebuilt, but that really doesn't make sense right now.  It looks like the wiring is correct on the donor tractor...has the right plugs although (#ineedanother) the three prong rectifier plug was only plugged into the top two blades.  The lower one(which I think is the DC one wasn't plugged in) So, wish me well.  I will still have to replace the steering wheel and track down the no spark issue.  Really appreciate all the help I have gotten so far.

 

Robert

[ebinmaine 67,553]

33 minutes ago, chorusguy said:

rewire my tractor

This is probably your best bet.

 

I've gotten into the habit now that I don't even bother to look at the wiring harness on restorations if it seems like it's been modified even just a little bit. 

 

Previous owner doctoring can really run into some serious issues so I just pull the whole bird's nest right out and throw it in the trash. Start right brand new with all new wires stem to stern.