520xi tie rod question and CH20 overheating

[Bbo44 2]

I have a 2005 520xi that was adopted when I purchases my house that has 1140 hours and a 52" deck on it. It was beaten on pretty hard but otherwise in decent shape. I am just trying to get some life out of it before probably buying a zero turn since I am cutting about 3ish acres. But have been loving how the 520 performs and mows (other than getting it stuck a few times in some bad spots). The deck was hit hard more than a few times (bent and banged up/cracks, missing front anti-scalp wheel mount) and is getting a few holes and rusting underneath that I keep patching with welded in steel plates, but the tractor itself is in "great" shape. Sorry if these both are discussed elsewhere, I did a quick search and didn't find anything in particular.

 

Almost all of the tie rods or ball joints (whatever you call them) are bad and have tons of play in them. I want to replace some or all of them to get some tightness back in the steering and the pedals but the OEM toro ones are about $55 a piece. Anyone know of cheap replacements without getting too involved? The steering ones look like 1/2-20 threads internal and external which I have found lh & rh pairs for but wanted to check to see if anyone knew. The pedal linkage I have no clue without taking it off and testing, which I do not want to do because I likely wont be able to put them back on to use temporarily until I get the correct parts. I do not have the time to make new custom linkage or I probably would.

 

Second question is with the CH20. It has high hours (in my mind anyway) but fires right up and runs mostly good. Ive never used a mower that fires up this quick especially after sitting all winter. After it's first start and little runtime it will fire up in a fraction of a second. Ran champion spark plugs last year and when I changed them they looked great. Little black, but the center was only a little grey. However after mowing 1.5 acres, it gets hot. Not in the red hot, but fairly close. I have had it one time on the line between green and Red. I usually stop after 1.5 acres and let it cool before finishing the rest. Im thinking the 52" deck is putting some strain on it and going up and down some hills. The CH20 manual says 3400RPM operating (not sure if thats with PTO on or off) and I have seen that you should run at 3600RPM with PTO off (so with deck on would be little less than that). However my max rpm is around 3300-3370RPM. I tried adjusting the governor but it either tried to Rev to the moon or stayed at 3300 rpm (I'm an amature with small engines I could be doing things wrong). Wondering if the extra RPM would help the cooling but unsure how to achieve that. I am sure the motor needs removed and cleaned, but time has not been on my side. If it is determined that is likely the cause, it will move up on the never ending to do list. I also thought about doing an oil cooler, but not happy with the idea of spending the ~$160 on one. I noticed after mowing when it was hot that at max RPM it would misfire once or twice every second or 2. But wondering if that is just the cheap spark plugs I put in, going to try to put the champions back in because they looked great. Any input would be great, original carb to my knowledge and one of the fuel lines has dry cracking (on my list to replace). All oils replaced yearly with full synthetic 10w-30.

 

Thanks in advance!

[Pullstart 62,916]

Awesome machine indeed!  Many people build tie rods out of right hand thread end links, a sleeve cut to length, and some threaded rod.  
 

I like to share this thread with people on the Xi series machines.  As tough as they are, I feel like the front axle pivot pin was lacking and often fails long before it is noticed.

 

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/92609-xi-series-front-axle-pivot-repair/

 

[Achto 27,609]

Here is one source for replacement tie rod ends.

 

https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product-category/steering/

Edited April 18, 2023 by Achto

[Wild Bill 633 846]

I am assuming the source for the temperature gauge is the engine oil. Air cooled engine oil can get real hot during the hot summer months and running for an extended period of time. Another very good reason to run synthetic oil due to its ability to withstand higher temperatures then regular oil. The WH temperature gauge does not have actual numbers but, I have Autometer oil temperature gauges on both my Kohler CH18 and CH20. I mow 1-acre and when the ambient temperature is above 90F, the oil temperature can got up to 270F before I shut down to cool and I have 3/4 acre mowed. That is why I added oil coolers to both engines. I also run the extra-long oil filter, P/N 277233-S, which adds a small amount to oil capacity.

[Bbo44 2]

14 hours ago, Wild Bill 633 said:

I am assuming the source for the temperature gauge is the engine oil. Air cooled engine oil can get real hot during the hot summer months and running for an extended period of time. Another very good reason to run synthetic oil due to its ability to withstand higher temperatures then regular oil. The WH temperature gauge does not have actual numbers but, I have Autometer oil temperature gauges on both my Kohler CH18 and CH20. I mow 1-acre and when the ambient temperature is above 90F, the oil temperature can got up to 270F before I shut down to cool and I have 3/4 acre mowed. That is why I added oil coolers to both engines. I also run the extra-long oil filter, P/N 277233-S, which adds a small amount to oil capacity.

The CH20 in my 520xi I guess already has the full cast oil cooler. I was thinking it didn't and that I would need one of the ones with the rubber hoses to the cooler and then back, but I guess it already has one. I did accidently order the shorter oil filter this time around, which might have a little bit to do with the extra heat. But I would be surprised that little extra amount of oil would make a big difference. It might be time to pull my engine and give it a cleaning and see if that helps. If not I may try to add some fans across oil cooler or help push air out the hood.

 

Edit: I lied!!! I don’t have an oil cooler. Do you know the part number for the ch20 oil cooler you used? I’m seeing at least three different styles/versions that say they “fit” the CH20s. Maybe they all do

 

Edited April 19, 2023 by Bbo44