314H no accessories work.

[Dennis C. 142]

I have a 1996 314 H in really good condition.  During  Feb/Mar. I removed the instrument panel, shift plate and the plate in front and below the battery.

All the gauges and key switch were removed while I repainted the parts and installed new decals. Over the past week end I reinstalled everything and hooked up the battery.

Tractor starts right and moves but no lights, hour meter or volt meter are working. All worked before I removed the panels. For the heck of it I bought a new ignition switch and still nothing.

The 15amp fuse appears OK. What am I missing? Thanks

Edited April 14, 2023 by Dennis C.

[ri702bill 8,327]

Dennis - did you by chance download the 1996 Manual(s)?? The wiring for the Hydro is probably different than the 8 speed.....

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,046]

Download the file as each circuit has it's own diagram.

 

[Dennis C. 142]

2 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

Dennis - did you by chance download the 1996 Manual(s)?? The wiring for the Hydro is probably different than the 8 speed.....

Yes, I have the manuals and electrical schematic for the Hydro. I disturbed something when I removed all the gauges and panels.

While I had all those panels off, I removed the steering  shaft and installed a new bushing too.

[Dennis C. 142]

9 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

Download the file as each circuit has it's own diagram.

 

Thanks

[pfrederi 17,741]

Fresh paint makes a terrible ground. 

[Dennis C. 142]

19 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Fresh paint makes a terrible ground. 

engine starts and runs. checked charging system and I have 13.9 volts at the battery. Just checked the 15 amp fuse and that's good. Just no voltage for lights, hour meter and volt meter. New ignition switch. test button for the indicator lights works and all the lights light up.

[ri702bill 8,327]

4 hours ago, Dennis C. said:

New ignition switch.

Not to be a spoilsport - the RIGHT 5 blade one........??

[953 nut 55,280]

Take a close look at the fuse holder for the 15 amp fuse, could be corroded or damaged.

[Dennis C. 142]

1 hour ago, ri702bill said:

Not to be a spoilsport - the RIGHT 5 blade one........??

correct Toro part. checks out with a volt meter.

[Dennis C. 142]

40 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

Take a close look at the fuse holder for the 15 amp fuse, could be corroded or damaged.

cleaned and checked. fuse is OK

[oldlineman 1,481]

I'm with Pfrederi on this one.

[Dennis C. 142]

7 hours ago, pfrederi said:

Fresh paint makes a terrible ground. 

I painted the instrument panel and shift plate, how does that affect the ground? The key switch works and so does the indicator light test button. i removed the leads form the voltmeter and hour meter and there is no power. Just for the heck of it I will install the old instrument panel that is all rusted up. Everything worked with that instruments panel

[953 nut 55,280]

18 hours ago, Dennis C. said:

What am I missing?

Use a volt meter or test light connected to the negative post on your battery and probe the two ends of the 15 amp fuse holder (power in/out) while the ignition switch is on. Presuming there is voltage present at both ends of the fuse then move on to the terminal that feeds the hour meter or the volt meter. 

[pfrederi 17,741]

Okay I am no electrical whiz ( out of 20 WHs  I only have one with idiot lights etc.)  Looking at the wiring diagram the gauge bodies seem to be the ground for that part of the circuit.    If they cannot contact the panel, or the panel itself can't contact a good ground then the gauges won't work.  Can't explain your head light issue...

 

 

 

[Dennis C. 142]

29 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Okay I am no electrical whiz ( out of 20 WHs  I only have one with idiot lights etc.)  Looking at the wiring diagram the gauge bodies seem to be the ground for that part of the circuit.    If they cannot contact the panel, or the panel itself can't contact a good ground then the gauges won't work.  Can't explain your head light issue...

 

I will install the old rusty dash panel that was in the tractor originally to check that theory. Everything worked with the instrument panel.

 

 

[pfrederi 17,741]

Might be easier to run a jumper wire from a gauge base to the battery -

[Dennis C. 142]

14 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Might be easier to run a jumper wire from a gauge base to the battery -

OK, I have a couple of questions. The previous owner ruined this tractor and i have been on a 2 year quest to bring it back. Overall the machine is excellent, but mechanical and electrical issues that i have been trying to rectify. Now the 15 amp fuse for the instruments, where is that located, same fuse block as the 25 amp? I only have the 25amp, no 15 but the instruments worked before.

 With the engine running and the hour meter and voltmeter leads removed I have no juice going to either lead.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,046]

See if you have a pink and a white or 2 pinks going into the bottom of the fuse holder.

[Dennis C. 142]

56 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

See if you have a pink and a white or 2 pinks going into the bottom of the fuse holder.

Problem solved. I should have taken pictures before I dissembled the instrument panel, shift plate and the panel below the battery tray. I had to remove the fuse block to do this.

What I failed to notice is the previous hero installed a jumper in the 15amp fuse position. I moved the tractor outside where the light is better and the jumper was on the shed floor. Sow i inst6alled a new 25 and 15amp fuse and all is good. The previous owner disabled all the safety switches and over the past 2 years I have been replacing them with new. All I have left is the the seat switch. Thanks for the input. I learnd a few things.

[Dennis C. 142]

Thanks for the help with this issue. If I had adequate lighting in the shed when I dismantled the instrument panel and battery area I may have noticed the jumper in the 15am slot. I must have dislodge it when I removed the fuse block. Anyway, i installed a new 25 and 15amp fuse and it's off to the races.

[ohiofarmer 3,276]

On 4/15/2023 at 9:10 AM, pfrederi said:

Might be easier to run a jumper wire from a gauge base to the battery -

 

Well, absolutely. I tried to follow the original Demystification guide and then a parts site diagram and no bueno. This one in color is awesome. I had a blown fuse caused by a bad switch. The five pin switch should have three connecting pins at the run and start position according to the test procedure . Nope. I then took a jumper to the accessory position with the key switch removed. [fused jumper is a good idea unless you are dead certain which pin controls the grounded circuit]. Now i need the correct five pin and probably nothing else.. The original switch rear pin on the rear of the switch is nearly rusted away.

  This revised electrical info is just what i need. i need to get it printed off but have no operating printer.. So thanks to this site for great info and well worth the price of being a supporter.

Edited April 20, 2023 by ohiofarmer